I am being held hostage by the hero's of the hobby.

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greymouser7

Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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I am having a hard time getting help to modify my car - 73 RR 340/a833/8 3/4

:protest:"I can't get no satisfaction.":banghead: None of the shops that I take my car to want to help me modify my car. I had rustyratrod run the numbers-it's a matching numbers car, 85k miles. This is the only Mopar I have that runs & is close to running.
This car encourages me to further pursue the hobby through the pleasure I have driving it. The wife even loves driving the car.

In the past I have ripped off by recommended shops with a previous RR.

I dropped the car off and gave the shop my exhaust and headers installed to replace the stock manifolds and dual exhaust (45mph drone). The shop repaired (2nd time Rob) the power steering, ventilation cables, re-aligned the doors/hood/fenders, external door locks, and added a mirror for me but is the second shop that didn't want to alter the car. This shop usually goes the extra mile with every finishing touch-for cheap. They have been dragging their feet about the exhaust for weeks.

They are extremely competent and are fellow enthusiasts that appreciate the hobby. They fix/maintain our cars while I am deployed for the wife at prices far below what 99% of anybody in the country charges. They DO NOT WANT TO let the car deviate from matching numbers/original status.

I should never have mentioned that. (facepalm)

The TTI exhaust is from the 74 RR (long ago) & is welded up already-I do not think that I can do it alone.

I am willing to pull the matching numbers drive train, original dash, mirrors, & trunk lid and save it in the garage...

I have 3 various 73/74 Plymouth B-bodies, 2.5 F-bodies, a full garage, and 2 rooms full of parts (no a body specific stuff) that I have accumulated during deployments to help me finish two more cars over time.

The overall goal was to have a family cruiser (73 RR) & an @$$hole hotrod to tear up the back roads/track with <- here where I am stationed, and a cruiser home in San Antonio when I go home to visit. Storage & maintenance home in SA is not a problem so the last vehicle allows me to fly vice drive home. FYI, it is possible I might never transfer my entire career.

I was driving a 74 rr (318/904auto) car but once I got the power train sorted out, there simply was so much rust and bondo (caulked in floor pans) to repair - it was cost prohibitive. It was rotting out in huge chunks under the windshield.

I want to add:
A/C, a dual-quad 360, TTI exhaust w/ headers, rear defrost, 150mph speedo with tachometer (stock option), rear window louvers, rear wing, dual chrome remote mirrors, 3 speed wipers, a large sound system, modern ignition, aluminum radiator, a trailer hitch, an Eaton Detroit True-Trac, and eventually a nitrous system to the 73 RR;I have all the parts but the differential unit & Nitrous.

I have had various minor repairs completed on the car since 2012.
I believe I need A/C to allow the wife to enjoy the car with me; it is VERY hot where we live.

Thanks for reading ALL of that!
Is it so important to the hobby to preserve vehicle? I cannot find another for the price I bought this one for.
I am having great difficulty finding shops that I can trust that will also get the work done in a reasonable amount of time.
Time is very valuable to me when I am attached to a boat, I have 3 months out of the year on land- 3 months of 'just 07:30-4PM' work vice 14-20 hour shift work/underwater deployments.

Many of the things on that list I need professional help with-what do you guys suggest?

Thank you so very much for your input-now and previously!!!!!!
Your humble servant from the deep, John
:burnout:
 
If it is as you described I couldn't modify it either. They are only original once and it has survived 40 years now. Most people would give their left nut to have a 100% unmolested car.
 
Most shops practice " if you got the money, we got the time". A shop with a conscious is rare. Or maybe they just don't want the same opinions and comments that will likely appear in this thread to become a constant theme in their shop while your car is there.
 
For Pete's sake, it's only exhaust!
It's not like you are asking them to tub the car or lower it with air bags or something else that's irreversable.......
But then again, if it is a ''survivor'' car, i can't blame them either. They have an image to uphold.
Tough call.
 

It is your car. You can do whatever you want. I would ask the shop what the problem is. If they don't want to do it, then take it elsewhere. If they say they will do it, get them to commit to a timeline in writing.
 
Its your car, there no reason you can't have it your way.
You work to have what you want the way you want it.

Get your cars and life in the order you want and enjoy them.
Lifes too short to piss around with people that can't get the
job done.
 
Usually 'enthusiasts' like those of us here are the type of people who take these things on themselves. If it were me and I was not inclined to do any of the work, I'd sell everything I could and use the funds to buy the car that I wanted. It's always best to start as close as possible to your end goal and makes better economic sense to spend the money up front.

In any event, perhaps you could try some of the easier things yourself like the ignition and build your confidence up to do more as you go. That's what I did. I made a mess at first but eventually I learned. I definitely had the idea it was something I wanted to learn though so if you'd rather farm out your work, we can't help you with much. Best thing to do is break your list down into smaller projects that won't keep the car down for long periods of time. Don't do what I do. I took my whole car apart and have not driven it in months.

A 'professional' shop is going to pay their guys on flat rate. Generally speaking, there is not a lot of money to be made on a car like yours when there are brake jobs and timing belts to be done. I was a tech myself and I can tell you that nobody wants a car that hangs around and requires thought.

Plus, the idea that these guys wouldn't want to modify an original car is silly. A '73 RR is not at the top of the collector list, even in pristine, original condition. If you offer them work where there's money to be made, they would take it. The only reasons not to would be for the reasons stated above.

Instead of a working shop, I would look up some local racers. Guys like that tend to be pretty good mechanics because they're passionate about what they do and they're not working in a production environment. The problem with that is that you'd probably have to wait until they can get to it.

Again, if you're not inclined to do the work yourself, your best bet is to sell all your stuff and buy the car you want. Why go through the hassle of doing all the work and dealing with a-holes in a shop?
 
Putting on an exhaust system is not really a deviant or even a heavy mod.

That's the first time I've ever heard of anyone having a problem with that.

Apparently Rusty needs to find something to occupy his time (he's currently posting threads about poop color), so maybe he could come over and help for a few bills.

Sounds like win/win to me.
 
Thoughts of modding an all original survivor make my stomach turn as well...that said, mods that are completely reversible are a lot less painful to watch.

Save everything, document everything and enjoy your car.

Or...sell it to someone who wants an all-original machine for cash and buy something less historically important. You'll likely make a few bucks and have more cash for modding.
 
hmmmmm, they are kinda right in that you should keep it at is, but wrong in not doing what the customer says lol.

you could always put this one on the market for 50k or something. then while you wait for a buyer (could take years) you could find another unrusted roller and start building that one how you like.
 
I can't fathom why a shop has a conscience in terms of telling someone what they get rather than asking what they can do for them. It's no way to make money or stay in business. I'd love to be able to build every customers' car as I want it. must be nice...lol.
Take it elsewhere. You're in the miltary for god's sake! I thought that meant something to people. Thank you and your family for your service. It's sad but I'd remind the shop owner that it's your right do do whatever you want you're defending and go find a shop that is willing to do what you want.
 
A shop makes money on the parts as well as the labor so in the exhaust issue he has the parts already. Shops around here wouldn't be inclined to work on it since it cuts in to their profits.

He is also wanting to do far more drastic mods than the exhaust if you read every thing he posted. I can see both sides of the coin here but it is only original once.

As far as it just being a 73, I remember not too many years ago A-bodies were worthless.

Maybe it isn't worth it to the shop to take on such a time consuming modification because they have plenty of work. I think back to the body shops that won't do complete restoration paint work... The money is in collision repair.
 
It is YOUR CAR. NO ONE has a right to tell you what you can or can't do to it.

It's funny how the "consciences" of the preservationists only pop up when it comes to what they think is worth preserving. I've been told to swap my slant for a V8 more times than I could ever count, but I've also had guys tell me not to cut my Swinger's door panels for a pair of speakers. Jeez, repops are cheap, and last time I checked, they were MY door panels.

Resto guys and preservationists need to worry about their own cars and leave the rest of us alone. The irony is, isn't the OP defending the freedom of choice by serving?????

Drive what YOU want. If the shop refuses to do what you want, find another shop. Best of luck, and thanks for your service!
 
In my shop the client is always right if you want it done we will do the best possible job we can and when your happy we are happy. But we do save every single part that is removed from the car and return it to you if you say you don't want it then out it goes but don't come back 2 weeks later asking for it the junk man got it already. Most of the time people take everything home and store it or resell it to get more money for there car. But a shop that tells you they wouldn't do the job in a timely manner just doesn't want your business on this car or any other because if you go do the road and someone else does it for you and does a good job for a far price they with get all of your work both old and new. That how i get 70 percent of the work on old cars and i work on some different stuff from a 1941 cadillac series 62 convertible and a 32 chevy 2 door sedan and if i can find stuff for these cars and fix them why can't someone put some exhaust on a car make some money and make you happy i just don't get it
 
it is your car. No one has a right to tell you what you can or can't do to it.

.

Resto guys and preservationists need to worry about their own cars and leave the rest of us alone. The irony is, isn't the op defending the freedom of choice by serving?????

Drive what you want. If the shop refuses to do what you want, find another shop. Best of luck, and thanks for your service!

amen.
 
If it is as you described I couldn't modify it either. They are only original once and it has survived 40 years now. Most people would give their left nut to have a 100% unmolested car.

I did not realize there is more to it than the motor/trans matching the vehicle (other than everything generally being original. The fenders have square holes for what I believe are wheel womb tabs. -No trim on the back wheels though.

I do not believe it is a '''survivor'' car' <-Dartnut

I think it's had a cheap repaint. Rustyratrod said that the cam is not stock-so perhaps an engine rebuild. The exhaust manifolds are probably original but after them I believe the dual exhaust has been rebuilt. The shop told me yesterday that the exhaust was excellent.

I thought rare models like GTX's, 440 6 packs, Hemi's, GTS's, convertables, moon-roof's, sharktooth grill-wing-louver equiped, etc. made a Mopar collectible and rare.

I also thought that this car seemed fair game with discrepancies that I have just now mentioned. I am fairly sure the mileage is accurate-no proof though.
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Its your car, there no reason you can't have it your way.
You work to have what you want the way you want it.

Get your cars and life in the order you want and enjoy them.
Lifes too short to piss around with people that can't get the
job done.

I totally feel that way about most things in life. This is a small community, and I don't wanna be 'That jackhole' whom destroyed a piece of our culture like a Mopar monument or something. I didn't think that this was that popular of a model, just what I fancied.
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Usually 'enthusiasts' like those of us here are the type of people who take these things on themselves.

-Up until this past December I have had an excuse, I work too many hours. A few times we deploy at short notice. Now I have the time and space I need to start a project and fumble my way thru it. -No experience or heritage-no big deal either.

...I'd sell everything I could and use the funds to buy the car that I wanted.

-That is what has happened. I found a stick shift car needing miniscule body work that I can afford $9500 plus $1000 shipping.

In any event, perhaps you could try some of the easier things yourself like the ignition and build your confidence up to do more as you go.

I need a balancer, carb adaptor kit, air cleaner assembly, the heads machined, valve covers, plugs & a few minor things and I will be assembling my first motor shortly.

Don't do what I do. I took my whole car apart and have not driven it in months.

-That's what happened with the 74 318 rr. I pulled up the carpet (2nd plymouth b-body purchased, and the floor pans around the seats (& forward) were chalked-in. I had installed this same exhaust, a built motor & polyurethane bushings and was driving the car hard when I realized I did not have enough metal structure to repeat any of the types of fun driving that I had done messing around. OBTW the ignition kept leaving me stranded in that car.

-Two man shop, with sons & a phone/front person. They don't have to advertise, there always is a minimum 2 week wait for them to get to people's vehicles. And the locals will try to take their used vehicles to these guys first, because of quality of work/competence, and $50 dollars an hour labor price.-I live in a community where the dollar travels further than most metropolitan areas.

--If you offer them work where there's money to be made, they would take it.

-They have all the work they can handle, often they catch up on their time off on weekends. They are passionate for classics and appreciate my Road Runner more than anything they come across. They love the stories I tell them about racing (actually trying to pass) a 1955 chevy w/ a 454 & 700r4 in the back roads while going to the Mopar Southern Nationals & we talk for an hour about the culture after they have been working out in South Georgia heat all day.

Instead of a working shop, I would look up some local racers.
-Stan Mizell came recommended by many shops, I tried him in 2000. He screwed me worst than the alpha male running the penitentiary-it's embarrassing how much I was ripped off.

Again, if you're not inclined to do the work yourself-

-I don't mind working on the other cars, I just want something to enjoy after waiting so long (2000); I have not 'DRIVEN' my plymouth rr that much-probably 60/70 times my whole life.

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Putting on an exhaust system is not really a deviant or even a heavy mod.

That's the first time I've ever heard of anyone having a problem with that.

Apparently Rusty needs to find something to occupy his time (he's currently posting threads about poop color), so maybe he could come over and help for a few bills.

Sounds like win/win to me.

Rusty is 4.5 hours away. He had a real hard time with the heat here before (once) and was busy enough not to be able to come back.

The entire TTI exhaust is welded up into a single piece, header flange to tip. I removed it from the rusted out 74 rr. I sanded all of the rust off, and painted. The hooker super comps (from fabo $200 +shipping)
need to be welded on one piece. I have not done them before but have heard that they leak if improperly installed. Perhaps I should MAN-up. How do you guys weld the single runner?-in the car?? Recommendations?
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Thoughts of modding an all original survivor make my stomach turn as well...that said, mods that are completely reversible are a lot less painful to watch.

Save everything, document everything and enjoy your car.

Or...sell it to someone who wants an all-original machine for cash and buy something less historically important. You'll likely make a few bucks and have more cash for modding.

-I have another trunk lid for the wing. The rear glass had some (leak?) stains and I thought that might make it worth installing the louvers-2 birds, 1 stone.
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hmmmmm...you could always put this one on the market for 50k or something. then while you wait for a buyer (could take years) you could find another unrusted roller and start building that one how you like.

I have scene 318/340/360/400/440 autos almost every non-deployed-day for the past 13 years. The manual cars usually went for a little under 20k, until recently, where the bottom dropped out and 400/4spd & 318/3spd manual cars are selling around 8/9k. It doesn't seem worth starting over again for the money people are paying. I have waited years now, I want to drive. This thing has taught me vanity besides being allot of fun.
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-thanks Dave! Moper they have mastered the success of automechanic's shop, they have more business than they can handle because they do good, honest, cheap work.
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-thanks vynn3! I'd like to see what everyone here thinks of it's preservation now that I have painted a better picture. I certainly appreciate all of FABO's input!
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- hemi446, they know that I want to modify it and drive it very hard (until I can beat on my F-body); I am a pretty simple guy to figure out.


These guys have done what you said: rewire a 78 D-300 I was using with a Painless wiring harness for $800 (I thought was more than reasonable)& check somethings to verify it was safe to drive.

Before my wife wrecked it, I had bought her a late model Cadillac El Dorado with leather, etc. -from my buddy for $1500 with payments.
These guys replaced the computer for the motor, the starter (?under the intake?), and a coil pack & fuel injector over one cylinder- all for $500 parts & labor. I don't know how. Maybe she sexed them, I dunno. But it was cheap because they knew we were poor at the time and she did right by them when delivering autoparts from O'reilly to them. OBTW that woman threw a bug-bomb into the car (leather and all) for 1 tiny spider!

When I deployed twice a year, the wife always had them service the vehicles for about a hundred bucks each time: (replacing: belts, hoses, brakes, fuel filter, sometimes-wheelbearings or a water/fuel pump or adjust her turbo) per car. We have accumulated 300k+ mileage with their help from only $10k worth of cars over the past 9 years.

Good mechanics like you guys are gold.

-Back in Time, thanks!
 
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