I gots a problem!!! Please help!

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Wow, I'm certainly not loosing my temper or cursing am I, usually the guilty party does that. Grow up dude, seriously. I'm done with this whole deal with you, stop playing dumb and ripping this kid off.
 
chafin said:
Wow, I'm certainly not loosing my temper or cursing am I, usually the guilty party does that. Grow up dude, seriously. I'm done with this whole deal with you, stop playing dumb and ripping this kid off.
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so you think it is called ripping him off? over a set of buckets and headlight bezels????come on.

the car has a 72 dart grille. when i got there, i asked you about the headlight bezels(part of the grille), and you said, they are on the seat. so i looked in, and they are the aluminum ones, which i knew right away as the duster grille bezels, not for a dart. and i told you that, and you acted dumb. "oh, i did not know that, ill have to talk to previous owner" yea ok. fyi, the 72 dart grilles NEVER had the metalish bezels for around the headlights. but were plastic, just like the grille is
 
Come on yall. Both of yall wanna argue? Please take it to PMs. This post was looking for help. Thanks. Not tryin to take sides, but please, this isn't helpin the OP.
 
"can't we all just get along?". thought that would get a kick out of some....

anyway. you guys need to play like adults and take it someplace else.

the guy with the 72 dart, make you a list of items and start looking. they are all over the place on here. look under parts cars also, and the guys here won't break you either.

good luck with the dart, :)
 
Yep, Mike, check the battery first, then the coil, then the ballast resistor. I also doubt that it's fuel. I would also replace the points and the condenser. I had a problem with the condenser on my 64 Belvedere, where it would start and idle like a kitten, but get anywhere near the gas pedal and it would gag and die. Changed the condenser and voila, problem solved. I would check the first 3 items first, I'd be willing to bet it's one of them. Good luck, Geof
 
DarTT said:
Took it down to the local autoparts chain and they ran quite a few tests and said there was a slight chance to save it, but most likely, I need a new one. I may try at a local garage I know that has a slow charger first if it will save me some cash. But I think that I may just end up getting a new battery. And its not too hard to kill a battery, a friend had a Merc battery last him 3 months and now it is his doorstop to his room. I'm not arguing with you here that it wasn't as new as you said, just saying, I am probably gonna need a new one sadly
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I sold cars all my life New cars have bad batteries sometimes You got to have 12-14 good volts or all kind of dumb things happen. Aload test will give you a yes or no on the battery then check for a good regulater solid state.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Come on yall. Both of yall wanna argue? Please take it to PMs. This post was looking for help. Thanks. Not tryin to take sides, but please, this isn't helpin the OP.
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X2!! take it off the thread please. Doesnt help the young gun at all.

Dartt; Get an interstate batt. I did a poll here a good while back and that was the brand most often bought and trusted. Prolly a lot cheaper than those fancy optima's. There is no truth in advertising so dont let the commercials sell you.

Your old batt may resomd to a deep long slow charge. I have saved a few by putting them on a 2 amp trickle for a couple weeks.
 
needsaresto said:
X2!! take it off the thread please. Doesnt help the young gun at all.

Dartt; Get an interstate batt. I did a poll here a good while back and that was the brand most often bought and trusted. Prolly a lot cheaper than those fancy optima's. There is no truth in advertising so dont let the commercials sell you.

Your old batt may resomd to a deep long slow charge. I have saved a few by putting them on a 2 amp trickle for a couple weeks.
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I ended up with a new everstart maxx for $67 with 850 CCA
 
The 340 in my 71 Van got to doing the same thing so I easter egged in a coil I had laying around. Low and behold it ran, but only for a while. Swapped in another used coil, same thing, ran for a couple of months and quit. Did not seem to matter whether I was running the points setup or Mopar electronic ignition, because it happened with both. Odd two used coils would out and out quit. I thought it might be too high a voltage (bad regulator), but never got around to checking it.
Not trying to highjack this thread, but one of my buddies has been successfully running the setup for years on a slant motor, so I've decided when the 340 finally goes into the Duster, I'll be running the Mopar electronic distributor with a GM four pin HEI module, and a Ford 5.0 junkyard coil I bought when I had a stumble/no start problem on the blue fox body convertible and it turned out I just needed to notch out a TPS mounting hole to adjust the output voltage.
Another no start problem the van had at one time turned out to be from the main 10 gage wire supplying electricity to the interior through the bulkhead connector. Corrosion had caused a bad connection and the resulting heat toasted the connector along with the spade connectors inside it. Hogging out the hole in both sides of the bulkhead connector and replacing the burned male/female spade connectors, along with a length of the 10 gage wire near the connector with overheated funky insulation fixed that problem.
A better solution might be to run a 69 GM style charging circuit and keep the high amperage out from under the dash entirely.
 
way back when there was a guy down the road who would pay me to work on his duster. 340 auto, single point and a SUPER COIL........ like clockwork he would call me every week or so that his car died, i would head over with a condensor and swap it out and would fire right up and run for a week.
every time i would tell him to toss that supercoil and he would say there was nothing wrong with it. i made huge money off that guy until one day he changed the coil and never got to work on it again until last year when i got the car and parted it. lol

start with the condensor in the distributor then the coil.
 
I've seen many cars with starting and charging problems. First, before anything I would bypass the ammeter and run a new wire from alternator to dtarter relay. There are many threads here as to this re-wiring scheme. Do this as the bulkhead connectors are old and need reparing at the primary 10 gauge wire connects. Look for the thread, it helps have the right current.
 
As Bruce and I originally told you, the fuel system is the easiest thing to troubleshoot first. It is by FAR the cheapest and easiest thing to diagnose first. If the car will run with the fuel inlet line disconnected from the pump and put in a gas can, then the problem is most likely not electrical. You said yourself the other day when we were on yahoo chat and it stopped running that it was not squirting fuel out of the carburetor anymore. That's a fuel problem. Like I've told you all along as hard as I could, online diagnosis is difficult at best. We told you to check the fuel filter as soon as it was dropped of Saturday. You didn't remove the filter until that following Wednesday because you were chasing your tail with the electrical system and vacuum lines. The vacuum system on that car is one of the most simplistic systems there is. You have the vacuum booster for the brakes, the vacuum advance and the air cleaner hot air system and the connections for the HVAC system and possibly some of the early emissions system. It's very rudimentary and none of those vacuum systems will stop the car from running. At this point, you need to drain the tank and remove it and clean it out good like we discussed, instead of going in circles. You've already determined when we talked on yahoo that the fuel in the filter was filthy. The tank has rust in it. I explained to you in detail how to deal with that. DO IT. I explained to you step by step TWICE how to remove, clean and replace the fuel tank. That's something that you can do with NO dollars spent. Whether or not that is your immediate running problem is irrelevant because it needs to be done anyway. I never buy a car that's sat for any length of time without completely flushing the fuel system and replacing ALL the rubber hose in the fuel system and I also told you that as well. If you're really serious about getting this car running, then stop whining about it on an internet forum and go get it done. Not trying to be mean here, but it's the truth. The internet won't get your car fixed. You will.
 
StrokerScamp said:
As Bruce and I originally told you, the fuel system is the easiest thing to troubleshoot first. It is by FAR the cheapest and easiest thing to diagnose first. If the car will run with the fuel inlet line disconnected from the pump and put in a gas can, then the problem is most likely not electrical. You said yourself the other day when we were on yahoo chat and it stopped running that it was not squirting fuel out of the carburetor anymore. That's a fuel problem. Like I've told you all along as hard as I could, online diagnosis is difficult at best. We told you to check the fuel filter as soon as it was dropped of Saturday. You didn't remove the filter until that following Wednesday because you were chasing your tail with the electrical system and vacuum lines. The vacuum system on that car is one of the most simplistic systems there is. You have the vacuum booster for the brakes, the vacuum advance and the air cleaner hot air system and the connections for the HVAC system and possibly some of the early emissions system. It's very rudimentary and none of those vacuum systems will stop the car from running. At this point, you need to drain the tank and remove it and clean it out good like we discussed, instead of going in circles. You've already determined when we talked on yahoo that the fuel in the filter was filthy. The tank has rust in it. I explained to you in detail how to deal with that. DO IT. I explained to you step by step TWICE how to remove, clean and replace the fuel tank. That's something that you can do with NO dollars spent. Whether or not that is your immediate running problem is irrelevant because it needs to be done anyway. I never buy a car that's sat for any length of time without completely flushing the fuel system and replacing ALL the rubber hose in the fuel system and I also told you that as well. If you're really serious about getting this car running, then stop whining about it on an internet forum and go get it done. Not trying to be mean here, but it's the truth. The internet won't get your car fixed. You will.
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This post has been on here a while now. And I just went and got 3' of 5/16th hose today just like you said, Im gonna be going tomorrow morning to get the filter and doing it tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
Good. I think a lot of the problem is you ask us (Bruce and I) for advice and then you come on here and post the same questions you've asked us. You need to understand that everybody does things differently. Obviously, Bruce and I think a lot alike. But, when you get on here and ask advice about the same subject, you get different answers and I think it overwhelms you. You need to stick with ONE idea at the time and you'll get that car running and running well. I don't care how much anybody on here knows, they cannot fix this car online with a magic wand. That goes for Bruce and me as well. As I said, since we now KNOW beyond the shadow of a doubt that you have issues with fuel, that's where you should start, IMO. Remember too, that you'll need a new fuel filter to run the car off that gas can because the old one still has crap in it. Also too, keep in mind that even if it does not run, that does not mean that you do not still have a fuel problem. As you'll remember,the carburetor stopped squirting gas into the intake the other day and you said the tank is almost full. That tells me right there that the carburetor has certainly been affected, and has crap in it. Like I told you a few days ago, box that sumbitch up with a kit and send it down here. I'll have it lookin and runnin like a new one and send it back. Keep us posted.
 
StrokerScamp said:
Good. I think a lot of the problem is you ask us (Bruce and I) for advice and then you come on here and post the same questions you've asked us. You need to understand that everybody does things differently. Obviously, Bruce and I think a lot alike. But, when you get on here and ask advice about the same subject, you get different answers and I think it overwhelms you. You need to stick with ONE idea at the time and you'll get that car running and running well. I don't care how much anybody on here knows, they cannot fix this car online with a magic wand. That goes for Bruce and me as well. As I said, since we now KNOW beyond the shadow of a doubt that you have issues with fuel, that's where you should start, IMO. Remember too, that you'll need a new fuel filter to run the car off that gas can because the old one still has crap in it. Also too, keep in mind that even if it does not run, that does not mean that you do not still have a fuel problem. As you'll remember,the carburetor stopped squirting gas into the intake the other day and you said the tank is almost full. That tells me right there that the carburetor has certainly been affected, and has crap in it. Like I told you a few days ago, box that sumbitch up with a kit and send it down here. I'll have it lookin and runnin like a new one and send it back. Keep us posted.
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Alright, it will be mailed out tomorrow or the day after
 
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