I hate machine shops..

-
The housings are not cast iron. They are steel. Probably weigh 1K pounds if it was cast iron.
 

the problem is the first shop that did my rear end didnt cut off the ends they chopped each axle tube in half took off what they needed and welding it back together.
 
And its hard to learn to do stuff when you have no garage, no power tools, and no one to help me. I stick to what I know so I am not paying to fix the same thing again and again because I have no idea whats going on.
 
I sure am glad doctors don't have that attitude. You can learn from books, you know? If you don't learn then you are more likely to fall victim to somebody wanting to rip you off.
 
Its far from a attitude. I am not one to learn from books or videos. I need hands on. I don't have money laying around when I do something wrong
 
so if some cute young gal goes to get her oil changed at some homeboy oil change shop and they rip her off, its her fault for not knowing anything about cars?

i don't know much about transmissions but my tranny shop doesn't rip me off
 
the problem is the first shop that did my rear end didnt cut off the ends they chopped each axle tube in half took off what they needed and welding it back together.

I would say that's the completely wrong way to do it....unless they had some sort of fixture to make sure the tubes were square to one another. Even then hopefully they beveled both ends of the tubes so the tube would be welded with full penetration. Otherwise it would be significantly weakened. This I can understand as to how the tubes could be really warped....axle bearings won't be square to carrier bearings.
That's enough to raise my eyebrows.:thumbdow:
 
Yeah, if they were beveled to a knife edge and welded right, you would be able to grind them down so you wouldn't be able to tell where the weld seam was....and it would still be strong enough to do what you wanted. Just remember, the weld itself is stronger than the material around it. So, if the weld is just laying on top of the material....granted there will be some sort of penetration, the material will just tear from under the weld. Unless the aforementioned process i stated earlier was done.

To me, something wasn't done right....i'd almost grind them down to check. Grind em flush and then take a
15lb dead blow and smack the end a few times...I bet it would break off. IMO
 
I had an old racer tel me they put -2 degrees negative into the rear end when they built it with a backing plate, supposed to track better? Dont know, guy smoked filterless Lucky strikes too. If it was warped, I would think a mandrel installed set of ends would cure just about any tweak. as long as they are parallel and perpendicular to the axle center line?
 
I had an old racer tel me they put -2 degrees negative into the rear end when they built it with a backing plate, supposed to track better? Dont know, guy smoked filterless Lucky strikes too. If it was warped, I would think a mandrel installed set of ends would cure just about any tweak. as long as they are parallel and perpendicular to the axle center line?

Yeah, I could understand it from that way....that's to say I'm not a suspension specialist, lol, but I do know my weld stuff and what heat can do....I do that every day.
But yeah, that would make sense when you think about it.
 
However, too much warpage will obviously slow the car down. My cousin Billy's 70 Duster has a 452 INDY head motor in it with a backbraced stock width A body 8 3/4 w/3.91's and 9" slicks, no mini tub or anything. He was running low 10's and finally dipped into the 9.90's. One day in his garage he went to roll the car back, by pushing it like he normally did, and it wouldn't budge. Found out the rear tires were toed out 3/8" !!
He assumed that was from the 9.90 pass and just hooked really really hard and just warped the crap out of it.
So, too much, will end up putting resistance to the roll.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom