I have a problem with my Holley 600 (4160)

-
Back in the day, another thing we used to do is a flat aluminum plate under the carb between 2 thick gaskets with the same throttle bore pattern as the carb gaskets... It was intended to keep the heat away from the carb... Someone must still sell them and they don't raise the carb up that much... I think I used two plates back in the 70's on a 440... Part of the problem maybe the gas and how much alcohol is in the gas, you might try a different brand and see if it makes a difference... And of course that's what the intent of the Carter thermoquad was, as it dropped the temp of the fuel some 20 degrees... Good luck.... P.S. make sure your engine has not lost any of it's cooling ability, especially if you have a clutch fan, if they start to fail it can add more heat to the engine....
 
cuda67 said:
I re-jetted to the 69's today and got rid of most of the detonation. It was too lean.

Thats' cool. But I think you are still too lean. Maybe go to 72s even just to get the timing worked out. The order of operations is always timing, then carb settings.

I set initial timing at 35 while at 2500 rpm. Those two things seemed to help, we are on the right track, I think. I spoke with my son this afternoon and he wants me to set intial timing while at 3000 rpm and if it stops the detonation he thinks my distributor is putting to much total timing in and that my distributor is not right.

I disagree on his method.. He wants to "see" the total advance... but now you have the adjustable light, and if the distributor is not set right, you can still have more advance than is shown at 3000 rpm. Especially with an MP distributor...

I bought a advance timing light today and I have to learn to use it right.

Great purchase, and yes you do... They are great. it's easy. You use the "0" reference on the cover, and the "0" mark on the balancer, and the dial to find where it's really set, for any rpm. I would advise going up to 4500rpm until you know what it's doing. You will be looking for the rpm where the centrifical advance stops adding timing. It could be anywhere from 2200 to 4000 in an MP or stock distributor.

What is total timing?

Total is just what it says.. All the advance added together give total. Most common definition does not include vacuum advance because at full throttle, with factory type source, vacuum advance does not have any affect at idle or Wide Open Throttle.

How do you know if your vacuum advance is working?

I just add vacuum (hand pump or mouth...lol) to it while the engine's running. If the timing/rpm changes, it's working. BTW, you will want to unplug it from the dist. and plug the hose for the rest of the timing setting part...

Do I have my distributor vacuum line hooked to the correct port? It is hooked to the port coming from the metering block. Is that right or should it be connected to the port which I have blocked off in the front of the carb at the base?

It's in the right spot.
Click to expand...


The order is this...
1. Check vacuum pot for operation... if it passes, plug hose to carb for now. If it fails, replace it or distributor if the dist is stock. MP unit has all you need.
2. lower idle speed to under 700 rpm
3. check initial timing at idle.
4. set dial or advance on light to 30°, have a friend slowly increase the rpms to 4500. Notice what rpm the advancing stops, and what the total advance is using the dial/advance feature on the light.
4A. if initial is under 10° and total is higher than 30°, you will need to adjust the centrifical advance before proceeding.
4B. if initial is over 10° and total is less than 30, add 6-8° to initial and reset carb to base idle and mixtures.

Once initial and centrifical timing is set, the carb will need attention, as will the vacuum pod. So this is the first part of the equasion.
 
Today, Aaron and I finally got to mount his Holley 4160 (LIST 3310-4) 750 cfm carb to the Mopar M1 dual plane intake sitting on top of the 360 we put in his '74 Duster. For the throttle shaft and linkage to clear the choke pocket and top of the intake, we used a 1" plastic spacer. He bought the aluminum Mopar ribbed with black krinkle finish valve covers and matching air filter lid. It looks like we are going to have problems shutting the hood.

What are these drop down air cleaners you are talking about, where do you get them, and can we still use the Mopar lid? We are also installing Lokar throttle and kickdown cables. Will these get in the way if he uses a drop down air cleaner?

Thank,
Jerry
 
Well, I changed the jets back to the 69's and I did the timing again. I set the initial/mechanical timing at 32 down from 35. I tried to set total timimg, mechanical+vacuum, to 50 as stated by Mopar Perf. but the set screw in the vacuum pot is down as low as it will go and total timing ended up at 52. The cars seems to run pretty good but I think the vacuum is putting too much advance and I can't get it out. Is there any way to adjust this in the Mopar Performance distributor? I am going to put the heat insulator spacer in this week. I will let all know how things are progressing. I think we are on the right track. Thanks for all the help. You guys are a world of knowledge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top