Best answers are brief and to the point without a ton of explanation and mathematics which normally confuse and confound people. Not to mention answers that actually address the issue.
Like post #15...Best answers are brief and to the point without a ton of explanation and mathematics which normally confuse and confound people.
.2601 reaction time
60 ft-2.3901
330 ft-4.906
1/8-10.54
1/8 mph-68.12
1000 ft-13.66
1/4 et-16.36
mph -80.76
Careful a long-winded answer like that might make AJ thinking he's got some competition? LOL don't get him started he'll break things down to every gear every valve grind every degree of Cam! LOL
And then he'll start to explain things!
1st & second to last paragraph were good.Your car was born to do better than14s
You have a 13 second street engine with a hesitant driver, and total lack of traction, possibly a really bad tune, but more than anything, your engine is sick. Start with a compression test.
At 4000rpm your engine should be capable of making 400 ftpounds, or 305 hp so you're getting an MPH, not even commensurate for that. and your traction issues are reflected in your 60ft, and your ET.
Say you tracked at 3100 pounds, and that engine was up to 305hp. That would be a P/W of 10.16, and should go 107mph, and the ET for that with a street chassis would be no less than 13.4
But your 80mph indicates your P/W is actually 23.2, or 129 hp, and your ET is right in alignment with that.
My guess is there is a lot more going on here than just the tune.
For Shifting at 4000:
Non-working secondaries might be 10 hp . Really Bad timing might be another 10. A two barrel cam instead of say a 262 cam might be another 20hp. No headers is not gonna add up to much but let's give it 10. A restrictive exhaust another 10 at 4000. What's all that come to? A total loss of perhaps 50hp. Adding those 50 to the Trap-Speed indicated 129hp, comes to 179 hp...... see what I mean? There is something really ugly going on here. Where you towing another car,lol?
Even with two plug wires off and the leftover 6 making 129hp,that comes to 22 hp per hole, and if you put the missing wires back on, you might have 176 so it's still ugly. Even if you reversed two wires, you still can't get to 305 hp.
My guess is your engine is just not processing air. And the principle processors are the carb, and very importantly, the exhaust system; plus the cam lobes, their timing, and their install.
Don't overlook the carb being jammed up too close to the hood, or the choke not staying open
Start with a compression test. And you'll probably need to do a LeakDown as well,to see if you even have an engine left.
Then pull the valve covers off and see if your valves are opening. Meh, maybe do this first.
With so much missing power, I want to say it's the cam, but even the smallest cam ever installed in a SBM made more power than 129hp,lol. IIRC my stock 1971 Demon 318/904/2.94 went about the same speed and ET............. so there's that.
Hang on, you got tirespin in second? You had to be towing something. Or is the track all uphill?
Oh waitaminute! You weren't in top gear were you? with a 2.45 hiway gear,lol.
IMO most bang for your buck at this stage is:
1. Open headers
2. Different rear tires
3. Tuning the motor
4. Experiment with shift point. You're not racing yet, just testing, so no need to worry about consistency yet.
Agreed, do #3 1st, tune it the best you can with what you have!And not in that order.
As a CME customer (318 w roller cam 347hp/353tq) and long time gearhead I will offer some "things to consider".Lots of tire spin off the line
more at 1-2 shift.
I just put it in drive and left it shift.
Not sure but I think it shifted around
4K