I need help finding tdc

Slant 6 Engines

  1. MotorHoggGears

    MotorHoggGears New Member

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    So I tried with the belt and the fan nothing . I tried with bump start to much of a guessing game for me so I got a harmonic balancer bolt 3/4-16,2 and 2in washer but tdc is a little difficult cause it not lined up on damper and balancer?? Anybody in Houston that can come to me and help or any info really appreciated?
     
  2. Killer6

    Killer6 Well-Known Member

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    HELP...Will not idle in gear
    This may help, not sure what You mean not lined up, in relation to what???? Other than a mismatched timing cover and damper,......
     
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    • Dana67Dart

      Dana67Dart Like a fine wine, only getting better with age! FABO Gold Member

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      What year/displacement engine?
      What year/displacement damper?
      Is your thimming mark on the passenger side, tin and bolt on OR is it on driver's side and cast into the timing cover
       
    • Slantsix64

      Slantsix64 Well-Known Member

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      I do it two ways, rotate the motor by hand and have someone stick a flat head or something in the drool tube where the plug goes but be careful it can get stuck if no ones holding it once it comes all the way up and the rotor points at the right spot, you got it.

      Another way is having the drool tube in place put some toilet paper and crank the motor over slowly quick cranks until the piece of paper flies out due to the pressure of the piston rising to Tdc.

      The rotor only points one way at number one here's a picture once you reach that point your good

      IMG_0794.GIF
       
    • AJ/FormS

      AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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      /6 that will ball-park TDC
      but if OP needs more accuracy, then a piston-stop will be needed.
       
    • MoparMike1974

      MoparMike1974 Well-Known Member

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      I put my finger over the #1 plug hole and bump it until I feel compression. Then I put a big ratchet on the balancer bolt to dial it in. If you need it exact use a piston stop and degree wheel.
       
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      • MotorHoggGears

        MotorHoggGears New Member

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        Well I been trying to line it up with damper and timing chain but it seems like I'm doing something wrong. I wait till I feel compression on my finger and then line it to the dampera cover line up to zero,and then set the rotor to number one spark plug but i get nothing. I was told wait till the intake valve open and close then line it up but still nothing. Any suggestions
         
      • AJ/FormS

        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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        Feeling compression is rather vague; that just tells you that you are getting close. But true #1 pistonTDC could be as much as 120 degrees further along, and that is what you have to find exactly, irregardless of any other markings. So after you feel the pressure pulse, the piston is gonna be around 1/3 to 1/2 of the way up; continue rotating the crank in the CW from the front,direction until the piston comes up as high as it can go and starts back down, then back it up, back to the top . Sometimes you get lucky and the damper is right on. If not then mark your balancer with a yellow or white paint marker. This is close enough to ballpark your TDC for purposes of aligning the rotor and idling. Later, if the damper is not correctly marked, we can walk you thru marking it properly. Eventually you gotta know where TDC#1/compression is, exactly..
        For setting the idle-timing, this is less of a big deal cuz the engine will start anywhere from 5 to 10 degrees retarded to 30 advanced; and can be made to idle at up to 45/50 advanced; you just can't leave it there.
        If the rotor is under another tower, then just move the #1 wire to it and follow the others in the firing order.
        But if the rotor ends up between towers somewhere, then you may, may have another problem.

        Oh wait, I re-read your last post and it seems like this is where we are at.I didn't get it the first couple of times.

        Ok then verify that the piston is at the top when the damper is indexed to the TDC mark, and both valves are closed, and that the rotor rotates with the cam. This is 90% of the job. If you got this then the final part is to prove the rotor is under a tower any tower, when a reluctor vane is passing the pole-piece center. Or if points, when the points just barely crack open.
        If it isn't then back up the crank until the balancer shows about 15* advanced, Then do it again.
        After you get this done, whatever tower the rotor is under will have to be wired to your #1 plug, and the rest follow in the correct firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4, wired in the correct direction CCW IIRC.
        If you get this and the cap and rotor are correct, then if the rest of the systems are up to snuff, then it has to start.
        Unless the valves ain't closing.
         
        Last edited: Jul 13, 2019 at 9:19 PM
      • MoparMike1974

        MoparMike1974 Well-Known Member

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        Its a good idea to clock the intermediate gear correctly once you find tdc. Its not critical but if your plug wires are loomed they might now have enough slack to move them around.
         
      • Charrlie_S

        Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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        What intermediate gear? This is a slant six, not a V-8.
         
      • AJ/FormS

        AJ/FormS 68 B'cuda fb, Form S clone ... 367/A833/3.55s FABO Gold Member

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        You still might have to clock the plastic drive gear at the bottom of the D or clock where the Vcan is. This is the "may have another problem" I mentioned above.
         
      • Charrlie_S

        Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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        He/we are still back to the original first step. Verify TDC, and the timing marks line up on the damper and timing tab, or make new marks if the ones on the vehicle do not line up.. Nothing else is relivent untill this is verified
         
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        • MoparMike1974

          MoparMike1974 Well-Known Member

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          Ah slantie. I will upgrade my comment to "replace" the distributor drive gear while your at it. I had seen my fair share of those shred themselves. Had a pin shear once and you could not tell by looking at it. The gear was tight on the shaft too. I retimed and it would slip as soon as it started.
          As far as TDC, the procedure is the same on anything. Make sure your on the compression stroke then rotate to line up the damper mark to 0.
           
        • Charrlie_S

          Charrlie_S Well-Known Member

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          Not correct. How do you know the timing marks on the damper, and timing tab are correct. Over the years the slant six had at least three different dampers and tabs. They will all interchange on the engine, but may or may not be compatible with each other and align at TDC. This must be verified.
           
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          • MotorHoggGears

            MotorHoggGears New Member

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            Ok so i one tooth off on the gear, but I'm not getting spark... New coil but the coil is not sending power to distributor is that the ecu? Cause everything been replaced but that and the distributor I rebuilt but on the shaft in the center a plastic bushing broke so now the distributor moves up and down now?
             
          • MotorHoggGears

            MotorHoggGears New Member

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            And Charlie I think your right cause I lined it to zero on damper and the Piston still wasn't all the way up. It was on the compression stroke and still didn't line up.
             
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