I think my 727 is fried. Now I'm at a crossroads...

Fried 727 in a car you plan to convert to 4 speed. What would you do?

  • Rebuild the 727 and run it until you're ready for the 4 speed conversion

  • Do the conversion now and worry about the engine rebuild later

  • Find a cliff, push the car over it, and never look back

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Swinger 340 said:
Adjusting your "Kickdown" should affect your shifting points and sharpness.
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Thanks, I know I should’ve made sure it was adjusted correctly already, but I’ll go back and make double sure. I also suspect the kickdown linkage isn’t correct for my car. I had quite a time finding what I think is the correct linkage, so I’m going to get that installed.

When I first got the car, the kickdown wasn’t even connected and obviously it drove like garbage.
 
Well, crap. Went to dinner with the folks yesterday and during the drive home on the interstate, I noticed wisps of smoke coming out my rear. We had Mexican food, but it wasn't that kind of smoke and it was coming out of the wrong rear end....

By the time I found a place to pull over, the transmission was slipping intermittently. I had a quart of fluid to add, but when I added it, it was pouring out the bell housing in a steady stream almost as fast as I could add it. I wasn't going to chance burning up the clutches, so I called for a tow.

@CudaFactHackJob If you're squeamish, stop reading now. I remembered when I rebuilt the transmission, the snout on the converter was scarred a bit. The pump bushing and seal both looked fine, and my wallet was a little too light for a new converter, so back in it went.

Since the car was shifting beautifully -- crisp and on time -- and the only issue I could see was the fluid puking out, I'm thinking an issue with either the pump seal, bushing, or both as a result of that converter snout.

My next project was to rebuild the front end, so I'm just going to drop the K member with the engine and transmission along with it. I think Brewer's might be getting a call so I can get the last few remaining items for the 4 speed setup.......
 
I think I remember something in one of your posts about the fluid level not being to the full mark. That would wear down the converter and pump bushing. I think I mentioned something about that at the time. A scarred converter snout can't be ignored; same as with a worn pump bushing. Just drop that trans and remove the pump and take it apart and post pics. I'm very resilient; aren't I?
 
I gotta say I'm impressed with your resiliency! I remember when I did my 904 and showed my converter to the transmission guy, he inspected the snout very carefully and ran his fingernail over it. He stressed the importance of a smooth and undamaged snout, but I'm not very smart sometimes and don't listen to advice I've been given.

I need to trailer the car back up to the shop, so it may be a day or two before I can pull it and post pics.
 
One thing I don’t understand is why it only leaks after it’s been driven hard. Started it up to add fluid so I could get it loaded on the trailer just now, and idling at operating temperature in neutral, fluid level full, doesn’t leak a drop. Yesterday was Niagara Falls.
 
None of the lines are kinked, but I can’t rule out the possibility that they might be close to a header in a place or two. I thought about the overheating scenario, which would explain why it would only do it after a hard run, and would progressively get worse as the fluid level dropped.

I really need to get my coolant temp gauge working…because I feel like the engine might be running warm.
 
You would have had to overfill it by several inches to get it to foam out the vent; but is it possible that you did overfill it?
 
It’s possible, but considering how diligent I was being with monitoring the level, I’d say not likely.

I should have it out within a day or two, then I’ll post pictures of the snout. I’m curious to see what the seal and bushing look like as well.
 
Righty Tighty said:
It’s possible, but considering how diligent I was being with monitoring the level, I’d say not likely.

I should have it out within a day or two, then I’ll post pictures of the snout. I’m curious to see what the seal and bushing look like as well.
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Just a thought before removing the transmission. Remove the out put line from the cooler and see if you get a good flow. Maybe you have a restriction somewhere in that area. Sounds like somewhere you may have a plug.
 
Righty Tighty said:
Can/should I do this with the engine off?
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Engine on for just a moment and in neutral, brakes on. Transmission needs to be working. Place line or attached hose in a bucket so not to make a mess. A helper starting and shutting down the motor may help. Did not no you needed details. BE SAFE!!!! Hope this is your issue.
 
Thanks, I just didn’t know if the fluid need to be under pressure to see if there was an issue or not.

I’m part way through prepping the engine/trans/K member for removal, and I’ve already drained the transmission fluid. I suppose I could fill it again, but that stuff ain’t cheap. Wouldn’t I have seen a blockage when I had the transmission apart?
 
Re-use that fluid. The blockage could be in the line or radiator/cooler. But it did slip, so an internal inspection might be warranted..
 
The radiator is new as well as the lines, but it’s such a simple test that I think it would be foolish to not at least try it.
 
The good news about all this is that I’m finally going to try dropping the engine/transmission with the K member. I’ve wanted to try that method for a while now, and I think it’ll make it much easier to rebuild the front end.
 
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