I want to build my first motor, but I need input

[67CudaBob]

I don't know what to get for a block, for heads, and eventually internals.

Here is what I have:

1967 Dart GT Convertible (currently 273/904/7.25)
What I have accumulated so far is an LD4B & Eddy 1406 (currently on 273), and a drum to drum 8.75 - 3.55 Sure Grip (on a pallet awaiting the build).

What I want to end up with:

Mild or better street car/cruiser - maybe 300-325 HP. Something that will spin the tires off the line when I need a release, yet something my wife and I can take on a highway cruise up to our cabin.

I have never built a motor, and would say I have novice skills at best, but it is something I have wanted to do since I was first exposed to my first Hot Wheels car in the early 1970's, and I can turn a wrench and I follow instructions well.

I have read so many threads on 318's, 340's, and 360's combinations that my head is spinning. Unless I stumble on an inexpensive 340, I have my mind set on a 318 or 360 to keep the cost down and leave the 340's out there for the true performance cars.

My question to you all is which blocks and heads should I be looking for, and better yet, which ones should I avoid all together? Is there a list of 318 & 360 blocks and 318 & 360 heads, from best to worst? Maybe this exists somewhere, but I have not found it.

I am loosely budgeting $2500 to buy and build the motor, rebuild the 904 and add a stall converter, and convert the driveshaft for the 8.75 rear end. (I plan to re-use my LD4B and Eddy 1406) knowing all this - is $2500 a realistic number?

Thanks to all that offer-

 

[RustyRatRod]

If it was me, I would find a 5.9 Magnum from a retail salvage supply such as LKQ. There is probably one in your area. A mild Magnum build will give you more than the results you are looking for and have niceties such as a roller cam, 1.6 rockers and close chamber heads. JMO.

 

[67CudaBob]

If it was me, I would find a 5.9 Magnum from a retail salvage supply such as LKQ. There is probably one in your area. A mild Magnum build will give you more than the results you are looking for and have niceties such as a roller cam, 1.6 rockers and close chamber heads. JMO.

Any specific years to look for or stay away from?

Will my manifold play nice with the 5.9 magnum?

 

[273]

I don't think $2500 is enough to rebuild an engine never mind a whole drive line.

 

[496 polara]

Try to find a used running 318 or 360.The less you have to do to it the better.

A magnum 5.2 or 5.9 is a better choice in stock form but you will need a different intake manifold and some other items as well.Check in the magnum swap section here for ideas.

Your budget is tight so I hope you can do a lot of the work yourself.

 

[273]

Low mileage 5.9 would be your best bet, 3:55 duals and 4bbl would probably all that you need and fit your budget minus the tranny rebuild.

 

[Coronet 500]

Here is food for thought.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=221233

 

[DesertRat]

I don't think $2500 is enough to rebuild an engine never mind a whole drive line.

What he said, The best laid plans & all-------

 

[PhillH]

I think you should build your engine, I had the same thing on my bucket list.That being said you had better double that budget, if that still has you interested in doing it, then you can start picking options. I took a running excellent block with only 53k miles on it and the machine work was about $1600, and I new there would be no surprises because it was my motor. If you can find at least a short block that doesn't need tore down you will save alot of money but you will still need heads rebuilt at the very least and more if you want to reach over 300 hp. Also if you don't tear it down to the bare block, you can't say you built it, that was a must for me even though I could've easily just bolted on some performance parts.

 

[Treblig]

Don't forget:

Treblig

 

[DartVadar]

I would go for a LA or magnum 360, they are pretty easy to find too, just know that most magnum heads or cracked, its rare to find them not cracked.

For my engine I literally just bought an old truck motor from 82. But I don't think I could have built mine for 2500 unfortunately though, thats how much my machine work was. My combo is alot of fun on the street but probably more than you need for what you are looking for. I have a stock stroke 360 with a solid roller cam (flat tappet would be lots cheaper). Eddy heads, kb pistons, dual plane intake and a holly 650. 999 transmission and an 8.75 with 4.10 gears. Nothing radical, and lights the tires up in every gear. But to save money finding a running engine and upgrading a few things is probably the best idea.

Building it yourself will save alot of money, and its not very difficult if you take your time. Biggest thing to get right is the bearing clearances.

 

[winstoninwisc]

yah thats way tight for a mopar i just built a very nice 360 6k and that was a deal
but here is a very nice thought for you. my name is Jon , I live in wisc next to madison
ijust spent 10k on anew motor trans and rear end . If you are interested i am thinking of
going much bigger in the H.P. andbuilding a 500 +HP engine over winter. My motor was perfessionally built by mike at performance research here in Sun Prairie Wisc. and has well over 300 hp closer to 375hp. I have bought and sold alot of parts here in the fabo family and have a good reputation on quality parts and if you are interested in taking a look i would sell you my engine but it would be more in the 5-5500.00 range . it is in my 65 Barracuda right now so you can see hear and feel it drive , it is a beast and all brand new . we could work it out so you keep your edelbrock and i wil lkeep my M1 intake and carb . If youare interested please contact me threw a pm to me here at fabo
thanks Jon .

 

[sireland67]

Does the car run and drive now?

What is the condition, maybe only certain things rebuilt now until you save some money.
Brakes and steering may eat a $1000 quick, and needs to be done first.

 

[jay soneff]

hello,
The value of your car will be greater if you have a professional machine shop assemble your engine with your input for specialty items such as cam design. I built my first engine when I was 18 and it had piston slap. After that learned a professional shop is the way to go.

 

[67CudaBob]

Does the car run and drive now?

What is the condition, maybe only certain things rebuilt now until you save some money.
Brakes and steering may eat a $1000 quick, and needs to be done first.

The car runs and drives great and is pretty nice shape all around - it is just a bit slow for my true liking.

I can certainly expand the budget - but I hate to "too" upside down in the car - but if it comes down to a $2500 package maybe decreasing the value if I do it wrong versus putting $6000 into it and it increases the value half of that and I end up with the performance I want - then clearly I am better off.

This is all great stuff guys I really appreciate all the input.

 

[RustyRatRod]

hello,
The value of your car will be greater if you have a professional machine shop assemble your engine with your input for specialty items such as cam design. I built my first engine when I was 18 and it had piston slap. After that learned a professional shop is the way to go.

ummmmm.....WHAT?!

 

[DesertRat]

The car runs and drives great and is pretty nice shape all around - it is just a bit slow for my true liking.

I can certainly expand the budget - but I hate to "too" upside down in the car - Not to be negative but we are all "upside down" in these cars the day we bring them homebut if it comes down to a $2500 package maybe decreasing the value if I do it wrong versus putting $6000 into it and it increases the value half of that and I end up with the performance I want - then clearly I am better off. Start with the low hanging fruit, handling-brakes-suspension and your vision of the car build will evolve with your budget, just the nature of the beast

This is all great stuff guys I really appreciate all the input.

BTW, glad you have the car and good luck with your project, DR

 

[fishmens67]

If it was me, I would find a 5.9 Magnum from a retail salvage supply such as LKQ. There is probably one in your area. A mild Magnum build will give you more than the results you are looking for and have niceties such as a roller cam, 1.6 rockers and close chamber heads. JMO.

all bullshit aside. this here is your best bang for your buck.

 

[rumblefish360]

The junk yard Magnum engine is your best bet and don't worry about the cracked heads. Even f they are cracked, you'll never know. Replace them if need be. There are thousands running around now that are cracked and the owners don't even know it. And never will.

Install the LA front of the engine with a fuel eccentric for the fuel pump.
Add intake carb headers and a small cam for 300+ HP.

 

[rumblefish360]

hello,
The value of your car will be greater if you have a professional machine shop assemble your engine with your input for specialty items such as cam design. I built my first engine when I was 18 and it had piston slap. After that learned a professional shop is the way to go.

Say what ????'add value? Are you stoned ???

I have the machinist do a small amount of the total biuld work. As in the machining of the metal parts. I'll do the rest! What ever I can do, I DO!

 

[RustyRatRod]

Say what ????'add value? Are you stoned ???

I have the machinist do a small amount of the total biuld work. As in the machining of the metal parts. I'll do the rest! What ever I can do, I DO!

I was tryin to be nice, but I must say old friend, you nailed it. LMAO

 

[FrostyMopar]

Yup, +1 for the magnum 5.9.

You should be able to pick up a decent one for about $600. Then swap over your 273's distributor, oil pan, timing cover, water pump and accessories.

I'd recommend a new double row timing chain kit and new hydraulic lifters while you have it apart, but that's just my opinion.

You will need to obtain a Magnum intake manifold. The cheapest one I know of is the professional products "crosswind" which is a Chinese copy of an Edelbrock "Air Gap"


OR.

Make a jig to redrill the magnum cylinder heads to suit any LA intake (such as your LD4B), An example of the jig you need to make can be found here: http://www.bigblockranger.com/Jig.html

This is probably a lot of work and would take a lot of hours but IF you're good with welding/fabrication and already have the necessary drills and taps then it's definitely a cheaper option.

Another good read with lots of helpful information for magnum retrofits is www.magnumswap.com

With good headers/intake and tuned correctly the stock 5.9 is good for about 300hp at the crank and will have plenty of room to grow if you choose to upgrade to better heads/camshaft in the future.

 

[67CudaBob]

I will spend time reading all the recommended links and such, and I will probably come across it - but is there a certain year range of the 5.9 Magnum I should either look for or avoid? Or, is a 5.9 Magnum, a 5.9 Magnum regardless of the year?

 

[ScampMike]

Is the car #'s matching and all that - if so, are you SURE you want to change everything? Not too sure on the rarity of your car - but it might be something to consider before you embark on your journey.. again, just thinking out loud here.

 

[67CudaBob]

Is the car #'s matching and all that - if so, are you SURE you want to change everything? Not too sure on the rarity of your car - but it might be something to consider before you embark on your journey.. again, just thinking out loud here.

It's a legit thought, but the car is nothing special along those lines.