Idler Arm hitting header.

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74RR

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So I dropped a 360 into my Scamp, at the same time I installed a new idler arm and upper tie rod end.
The idler arm hits the bottom of the header and the tie rod end is so close the rubber boot in melting.

Any help would be much appreciated. The headers are Hooker Comp's. I will buy a new set of affordable headers if this will help. Can't afford TTI's right now.
 
Check to see if the idler arm and the pitman arm are operating in the same plane, and if the idler arm can then be adjusted down to match the pitman.
You didnt say what generation steering parts are on your car. I assume you have the down-pointing studs of the 73 and up set-ups. If true, a swap to the 72 and older style steering has the pins firing up. This helped my 68 Formula S, tremendously.

POST EDITED
 
Ok, thank you for the reply! I'll check the plane tonight. The steering parts are the originals so all 74 year parts.
 
I've also had some success loosening the motor to mount bolts ( 3 ea side),, and jacking the engine up, and re-tightening the bolts, or combo jack/moving the engine around with a bar, and retightening..

Loosening the header flange and lifting the collector may gain some clearance as well.

Shimming is an option on the biscuit mounts,,

I;ve also had sucess using a ratchet strap around something secure, (trans, or torsion bar) and slightly bending header as nec..

Denting the header should be a last resort..

cheers
 
Well if you already have the 74 stuff, there's no improvement to be had there.And the engine can only be moved a little bit on the original V8 spool mounts.So that mostly leaves loosening the flanges, like Inertia said,and seeing what you can get there.
Were the Hookers ordered for the correct year chassis? And are the engine mounts original V8s?
Passenger side headers aren't usually a problem. I have heard more than a few complaints tho about Hooker Comps.
A few words about the idler arm; don't be tempted to arbitrarily move it.You can introduce unwanted bumpsteer into the steering system. If the operating planes are different from side to side now though, then, if moving the idler brings those planes into alignment, you may actually be correcting bumpsteer. If you do move it, you may upset the toe-in, and so a re-alignment is recommended.
If the headers are used, but in good shape, I think I would cut the offending pipe and rework it to fit.
One time,I loosened all the engine mount bolts,just a bit, and lifted the engine with a picker. Then I wiggled and jiggled and twisted, and finally tightened the mounts up again. A lot of work for very little gain.I tightened stuff up hard, cuz, you know, 360s have torque,eh?
 
I bought the headers at a swap from a Mopar guy that had them in his 76 Duster. The headers fit great everywhere exept at the pass side upper tie rod end and idler arm.

I never thought to loosen the flange. I'll try that tonight. Thanks to both of your replies, inertia and AJ/Forms!
 
AW shucks,you can just call me AJ.
So you're saying the PO also had fitment issues in a 76 Duster? And he told you this before you shelled out the green? And you still bought them? Ahem....Give your head a shake! I hope you got them cheap.
In that case, you can bet the PO tried everything already. If it was me,I would dig out the tools and start cutting.
 
No, he never stated how they fit in his Duster and I never asked either though. They fit great in my 74 Scamp everywhere exept at the pass side upper tie rod end and idler arm.
Yes, I may need to start cutting and pasteing....
 
Myself and many others had always assumed the late model center link was symmetric.
Another member here discovered switching ends made a difference. It is a lot of work to switch it and may be a wasted effort in your case.
 
mine hits about every 6 months. Internals melt in idler arm. ends up being so loose it hits the headers.
 
Redfish
Is swapping it end for end possible? I'm pretty sure the one end is offset more, to reach over to the P-arm. And then the T-rod stud holes are all messed up. It seems to me I tried that once, and the above is IIRC,and, circa 1999.


OP, erase post #7 then. I misunderstood the previous post. I'll shake my head now....
 
had same problem on 73 Duster..i had a idler arm from autozone and it hit the headers where as the original idler arm did not...looking at them together...they were not bend the same...

I bought the Moog brand one and it worked.
 
The idler I bought was an offshore brand I believe , not a Moog. I wonder if that would make a difference?

Thanks for all the replys!
 
AJ/FormS said:
Check to see if the idler arm and the pitman arm are operating in the same plane, and if the idler arm can then be adjusted down to match the pitman.
You didnt say what generation steering parts are on your car. I assume you have the down-pointing studs of the 72 and older set-ups. If true, a swap to the 73 and newer style steering has the pins firing up. This helped my 68 Formula S, tremendously.
Click to expand...

I think you have that backwards? 72 and older the studs point up, with the nuts on top. 73 and newer the studs point down with the nuts on the bottom. It has been my experience that the 72 down style has more clearance 99% of the time.
 
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