Installed distributor - Now it makes a bad noise

[Tooljunkie]

Well let starter stop spinning before cranking again. Way too far advanced. Should start at zero degrees instead of 8.
And i would recheck firing order,wires go clockwise, right?

 

[pishta]

tell me one thing. #1 is driver front cylinder: 1357 to back, passenger side is 2468. Put timing mark at TDC. where does rotor point? It may still be 180 out. wiring is clockwise on cap, no matter how long you've been doing this, this still can be a source of grief. The gas spitting back means your sparking on an open intake valve. Its fast and easy 18436572 clockwise, burned me more than once in 33 years. 5 and 7 are next to each other and can get crossed very easily.

 

[perko]

the cap points more or less towards the #1 intake manifold bolt. It does look a little more clockwise than I remember but I might bust be imagining things.

firing order is correct. i keep checking it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

It's 180 out.

Hey sorry for not keeping up on this post. I got really sick. Anyway. I got a video of whats happening. just to catch everyone up...

What i have done
- Installed new distributor (I think the pickup on the old one was bad but the whole thing was rusty and gross)
- Confirmed TDC using a chopstick through the spark plug hole (thats all i got right now) and turning it over by hand. Yes it is on the compression stroke.
- Made sure that the distributor is in about 8 degrees before TDC.
- Wires are in the correct order/location on the cap.

Symptoms
- bucking/grinding when it seems like it should be firing. It sounds like the starter fighting the flywheel to me.
- this problem only happens when I'm sending spark to the plugs. If I ground out the ignition coil or otherwise disable the ignition it turns over just fine.


VIDEO:

Thanks. This is driving me bonkers. I'm worried I've done something colossally stupid and havent't noticed.

 

[67Dart273]

Hey sorry for not keeping up on this post. I got really sick. Anyway. I got a video of whats happening. just to catch everyone up...

What i have done
- Installed new distributor (I think the pickup on the old one was bad but the whole thing was rusty and gross)
- Confirmed TDC using a chopstick through the spark plug hole (thats all i got right now) and turning it over by hand. Yes it is on the compression stroke.
- Made sure that the distributor is in about 8 degrees before TDC.
- Wires are in the correct order/location on the cap.

Symptoms
- bucking/grinding when it seems like it should be firing. It sounds like the starter fighting the flywheel to me.
- this problem only happens when I'm sending spark to the plugs. If I ground out the ignition coil or otherwise disable the ignition it turns over just fine.


VIDEO:

Thanks. This is driving me bonkers. I'm worried I've done something colossally stupid and havent't noticed.

Step back and think........The crank fires, TURNS ONE FULL TURN (and the distributor turns 1/2 turn) and DOES NOT fire on that cylinder

The crank turns ONE MORE full turn, the distributor turns an additional 1/2T and no 1 fires again

You need to see if no1 is on COMPRESSION. The timing marks come "up" and the cylinder "may or may not" be on compression. You have a 50-50 chance

HOW TO TELL?

Easy there are two ways

1...If you have either valve cover off, look at the no1 or no6 valves with the marks on TDC. Whichever set of valves is closed, that cylinder is ready to fire, and that cylinder is where you point the dist. rotor

2...Mor common, pull no1 plug and stick your finger in. Bump the starter and when you feel compression push out your finger, STOP. Now look for the marks which should be "on the way up." Set the marks NOT at TDC but rather where you want timing such as 12BTC

Drop the dist. in with rotor pointing whever the rotor will point near no1, and with the dist. case in the middle of rotation "room" (for the vacuum can)

Now retard the timing by moving the dist housing CW. Close the points if used. Turn the dist housing CCW (advanced) until the points JUST open. Do this with test light or meter

If you have breakerless, rotate until the reluctor is in the middle of the pickup coil core. "When you get good" at this you can "wiggle" the dist housing ccw--cw and make a spark wit key on. Wiggle "less and less" until you "know" where the spark is happening, that is your timing

YOU CAN CHECK TIMING on the starter with your timing light

Then START IT UP

 

[perko]

Step back and think........The crank fires, TURNS ONE FULL TURN (and the distributor turns 1/2 turn) and DOES NOT fire on that cylinder

The crank turns ONE MORE full turn, the distributor turns an additional 1/2T and no 1 fires again

You need to see if no1 is on COMPRESSION. The timing marks come "up" and the cylinder "may or may not" be on compression. You have a 50-50 chance

HOW TO TELL?

Easy there are two ways

1...If you have either valve cover off, look at the no1 or no6 valves with the marks on TDC. Whichever set of valves is closed, that cylinder is ready to fire, and that cylinder is where you point the dist. rotor

2...Mor common, pull no1 plug and stick your finger in. Bump the starter and when you feel compression push out your finger, STOP. Now look for the marks which should be "on the way up." Set the marks NOT at TDC but rather where you want timing such as 12BTC

Drop the dist. in with rotor pointing whever the rotor will point near no1, and with the dist. case in the middle of rotation "room" (for the vacuum can)

Now retard the timing by moving the dist housing CW. Close the points if used. Turn the dist housing CCW (advanced) until the points JUST open. Do this with test light or meter

If you have breakerless, rotate until the reluctor is in the middle of the pickup coil core. "When you get good" at this you can "wiggle" the dist housing ccw--cw and make a spark wit key on. Wiggle "less and less" until you "know" where the spark is happening, that is your timing

YOU CAN CHECK TIMING on the starter with your timing light

Then START IT UP

I've got a tool i made of air compressor parts that threads into the spark plug hole so that I can feel the compression. I'm almost certain its on the compression stroke. Its a stock electronic ignition so there's no points but Its gota be close enough to fire off. I guess I'll make sure sure its not 180 out. not tonight though. we're prototyping the turkey rotissery.