Installing harmonic balancer repair sleeve

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Andre68

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today I tried to install the repair sleeve on my harmonic balancer... not sure how it went, most likely bad haha

This was all info I got from a mopar magazine article.

1) I cleaned the harmonic balancer, and wire wheeled the shaft, cleaned it up real nice.

2) I went to Oreillys, they gave me this blue threadlock gel, said it was the same thing as loctite. (my sleeve did not come with any)

3) i put the threadlock on the sleeve and on the balancer, went to the press to press it on with a piece of wood,and it went on till it bottomed out the piece of wood.

4) then it looked like this.. I dont know if this is still good or not. it seemed to have a bulge on one side, and then it seem to be shorter on one side, and then after i pressed it on it just easily slips on or off with my hand.

by the way I also tried to flatten down the bulge with light hammer taps.

Im attaching some photos for insight and opinions!

any tips for this would be great
 

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I think that thing is smoked. I dunno what happened.....maybe you pressed it on cockeyed or too far.....?
 
The wood distorts when you press on it, causing the sleeve to distort.
I use a piece of iron, 4"X4", 3/4 thick to press the sleeve on.
Even then, make sure it goes on straight.
 
The sleeve I installed on my 318 had a wider lip on it for you to press against.
 
Get a speedi-sleeve. They come with an "installation tool", a collar that mates with the lip on the sleeve. You need to purchase the correct sleeve for the shaft you are repairing. If the sleeve is loose you can use a 2 part liquid epoxy to take up a small amount of clearance and retain the sleeve. Did that with the balancer on our recently built 383 and on the pinion yoke that was .004 out of round. Both repairs work like champs.....
 
Where can i purchase the speedi sleeve? and is there a specific part number?
 
I always thought that you heat the sleeve in the oven to about 250 degrees an cool the balancer in the fridge then it should slide right on. You gotta be quick so the sleeve doesn't have time to cool off. Be sure and use some good gloves so you don't get burned!!

Treblig in Tex
 
Anytime to tap on a ring with a hammer it gets larger. Haven't u ever watched someone "size" a ring for your finger??

treblig
 
Treblig said:
Anytime to tap on a ring with a hammer it gets larger. Haven't u ever watched someone "size" a ring for your finger??

treblig
Click to expand...
I have hit my thumb with a hammer and it got a lot bigger :sad7:. It hurt like hell to :violent1: LOL.
 
Yes 67Cuda. Tapping on your thumb with a hammer will make it bigger and putting your thumb in the fridge for a while will make it a little smaller.

Treblig
 
Can't imagine a replacement balancer is all that much. Who knows how long till that one fails. Does look like it's got some cracks in the rubber ring.
 
Not sure if this was the issue but a wire brush may not have removed all the surface material. The sleeve should be a tight fit, but not an interference or press fit. I use emery paper simply because you're replacing the wear surface so smooth doesn't matter. I'd make sure it's all definately bare steel and rust/crud free, then try it again. Heating the sleeve could help, as would freezing the balancer.
 
Freezing the balancer may not be a good idea IF you're going to use a lock tight product. Putting it in the fridge would work if you heat the ring. When u pull a metal object out of the freezer into the normal atmosphere you will immediately get condensate (moisture) on the balancer. Lock tite is water soluble so when you try to put lock tite on the balancer it will dilute and not work as intended. This will happen to a much lesser degree if you just put the balancer in the fridge.
The only reason I know is that in the aircraft industry we used freezing and heat to mate many objects (using lock tite) until it was discovered that lock tite is water soluble. Even in the air conditioned environment we worked in the parts would start sweating as soon as we removed them from the dry ice freezer. As it turns out, once you dilute lock tite with water it loses all it's bonding properties. We had to increase the heat on the ring or cylinder to get them to expand enough to compensate for not freezing the mating parts.

Treblig
 
Andre68 said:
Where can i purchase the speedi sleeve? and is there a specific part number?
Click to expand...

Speedi Sleeve is (was) a brand name of Chicago Rawhide (CR) seals. "They" should be able to look it up by application, or if you can mike it, by shaft size.

Also, You can buy Felpro timing cover sets which come with a sleeve. It's cheaper I BELIEVE to buy a timing set with the sleeve than to buy the gaskets and sleeve separate.
 
Treblig said:
Freezing the balancer may not be a good idea IF you're going to use a lock tight product. Putting it in the fridge would work if you heat the ring. When u pull a metal object out of the freezer into the normal atmosphere you will immediately get condensate (moisture) on the balancer. Lock tite is water soluble so when you try to put lock tite on the balancer it will dilute and not work as intended. This will happen to a much lesser degree if you just put the balancer in the fridge.
The only reason I know is that in the aircraft industry we used freezing and heat to mate many objects (using lock tite) until it was discovered that lock tite is water soluble. Even in the air conditioned environment we worked in the parts would start sweating as soon as we removed them from the dry ice freezer. As it turns out, once you dilute lock tite with water it loses all it's bonding properties. We had to increase the heat on the ring or cylinder to get them to expand enough to compensate for not freezing the mating parts.

Treblig
Click to expand...

Cool. thanks Treblig. Learn something new every day!
 
No problem Moper...I'm still learning also, it just takes longer to soak in nowadays.

Treblig
 
just like changing ring gears..put the balancer in a bucket of ice.. overnight if youd like.it will shrink a few tenths.dont use a oven put a alum or steel plate on a burner let the the sleeve sit for 20 mins or so and get 3 hun degrees..it will grow .001 to .003 in diameter..now you have a hot ring and cold bar of steel the ..the minute you put the ring close to the snout of the balancer the ring will start cooling down and shrinking..thats why you leave it on a hot plate and on the stove..take a little rtv and wipe it around the snout at the back end or Loctite..you really shouldn't need anything..it should if done right.be sealed..hold the balancer over the ring and QUICKLY SLAM IT DOWN INTO THE RING...THE SECOND THE RING AND SNOUT COME TOGETHR IT WILL GRAB..SO YOU HAVE TO BE QUICK AND PRECISE..you want the snout to bang on the plate.that way you know its bottomed out so be hard and quick....if you don't get it in far enuf.find two plates of alum or steel and put one[lay one ] on the ring and one on the back of the balancer and put it between two jaws in a vise..slowly squeeze it together the ring if done right will try to even itself on the snout..nice little 2 or three ton press works great for this..but a vise will work,,,done lots of hot and cold pressing of pins and such in the machinist trade and done this before,,above all don't beat on it with a bammer..even tho a ring is thin walled,it will take an amazing amount of pressure..but wont take hammering art all..if you need more explanation pm me ..GL..J
 
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