Installing the 383 in my 75 Duster

[cuda_cowboy]

I have a question before I get too far along on dropping the motor back in. I plan on installing the motor and trans as one unit but was wondering if I should put the exhaust manifolds on before I drop it in also. My car has PS but manual brakes. Just wanting to save myself a headache if I can.

 

[Jim Lusk]

Remove the steering column and install with the manifolds on.

 

[66fs]

If something went wrong, what will it take to replace a big block exhaust manifold? Not much room in there.

 

[trudysduster]

I have a 440 in my 76 Duster. I have had the motor in and out many times when I first put it together. I never removed the manifolds nor did I remove the steering column. Did not put it in with tranny on though but don't see as what you are asking about would have any bearing on the tranny being on anyway with manifolds and steering column. It took 15 minutes from the floor to the cradle to install. it is tight though.

 

[Jim Lusk]

It's not that hard to change a manifold, but it is MUCH easier to work on with the column out. Esepcially with a 440.

 

[txstang84]

...have you considered installing it as an assembly on the k-member from the bottom? There's a few folks on here proclaiming how much easier it is, as long as you have the right tools. I know I'm strongly thinking about it for my Scamp when it comes around to swapping it out.

 

[dodge71demon]

What manifolds are you using

 

[cuda_cowboy]

Thought about the K-member thing but I just don't have the room in this garage. I did this on a 94 Camaro that I did a LS1 swap in and it worked ok but I had a nice big well lit shop to do it in.

Just running stock manifolds they decode as 70-71 B/C body 383/440

 

[cuda_cowboy]

Well guys I got the motor in but the drivers side manifold and steering shaft coupler are hitting. Any ideas?

 

[Jim Lusk]

Post a pic. I suspect the issue is a C-body driver side manifold and power steering, though.

 

[cuda_cowboy]

I believe you are right on the C-body drivers manifold. And yes it does have P.S. Not sure if there is a way to modify the coupler or if I just have to find a set of early B-body manifolds.

 

[grassy]

...have you considered installing it as an assembly on the k-member from the bottom? There's a few folks on here proclaiming how much easier it is, as long as you have the right tools. I know I'm strongly thinking about it for my Scamp when it comes around to swapping it out.

big time !

Up goes the front...everything slides in....you can do it w/o the suspension..drop the front down...I have TTis and I have maybe a 1/8th of an inch clearance in some areas.. It was so easy, we did it twice in 2 days...fun

 

[Jim Lusk]

Those are standard low perf log manifolds, but it looks like the heat stove boss is what is rubbing. If that's the only place it hits, grind it off...

 

[cuda_cowboy]

It's actually hitting when I turn the wheel and the "flats" hit against the manifold. Thinking I'll have to switch to a u-joint or find a different set of manifolds :/

 

[Jim Lusk]

You can also angle-mill the manifold and/or grind down the ribs some.

 

[cuda_cowboy]

Went with a different drivers manifold and all is well. Now to finish buttoning everything up. I used #3830800 and it worked very well. I see this manifold was used for everything from Newports to RV's.

 

[Jim Lusk]

I've seen that one. That is the HP manifold after the better 68-73 manifold, but it works.