Intake manifold gasket installation help

Small Block Mopar Engine

  1. toolmanmike

    toolmanmike Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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    That looks like a Magnum intake. The China walls are the thin walls on the ends of the block. The machined walls that the distributor goes into on the rear and the narrow one on the front

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  2. Richard Sweet

    Richard Sweet Well-Known Member

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    Remember that 64-65, 273 heads and intake manifold have a different mating surface angle than later models, so that is important to keep in mind. You are using stock heads and intake, so there is not a problem. Just saying.
     
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    • toolmanmike

      toolmanmike Moderator Staff Member FABO Gold Member

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      Right you are. Without backreading every post, I don't believe the OP ever mentioned which intake he was using. Did I miss it?
       
    • cudamark

      cudamark FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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      It's not the mating surface that's different than the later small blocks, it the diameter and angle of the bolts.
       
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      • Bob Jasinski

        Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        The engine block and intake manifold are stock, I'm aware of the changes in the '66 manifold, mine is a '65. The 273 is the original engine, intake, carb, correct date codes, 2 under the C, this is a real Formula S car. it will be painted the original Gold Poly with black stripe. My goal (build) is a "day two" car that is stock with a few owner mods like 15" Rallyes. Here's pic of the intake.

        DSC_4676[1].JPG DSC_4675[1].JPG
         
        Last edited: Sep 19, 2021
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        • Richard Sweet

          Richard Sweet Well-Known Member

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          Bob,
          Here's another thing to consider: whether or not you want to block off the heat riser port going across the center of the intake manifold. If your carburetor uses an electric or manual choke and you don't live in a cold climate, you might not need that heat going to the intake manifold. There are thicker, composite and metal intake manifold gaskets that do not have openings for that heat riser port. If you used that thicker gasket, you would probably need to use the cork end rail gaskets to make the manifold fit right. Also, you might want to take off that bottom pan so that it would not insulate the intake manifold from the crankcase heat. Just something to consider.
           
        • Bob Jasinski

          Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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          Richard, I want to retain the stock choke, and have spent a significant amount of time cleaning the exhaust port so the choke functions as designed. As far as the plate goes, its there to prevent oil from coking up on the underside of the exhaust heat chamber. This is a stock build and the plate stays, but I do appreciate the suggestions.
           
        • RustyRatRod

          RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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          I agree on both counts. Especially if the heat plate is fairly clean with no deposits behind it that you can tell. For stock and very mild builds, it really doesn't pay dividends to block the exhaust cross over.
           
        • Coolvibes

          Coolvibes Well-Known Member

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          He's correct. Just pulled my intake manifold off yesterday (1965 - 273), and was surprised to find so much oil on the bolts. The valleys on the manifold were wet and oil stained when I bought the car. Now I know why.
           
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          • lemondana

            lemondana BlackDart

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            The correct intake gasket set is Fel Pro MS9935. Rock Auto has them for $6.40 right now. They are not always available. These are not the same number as the later 273-318 gaskets. So anyone looking for these early gaskets, HURRY and order them now.
             
          • Bob Jasinski

            Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            I have a set on order from Rock Auto, the shipping is more than the gasket set.
             
          • Bob Jasinski

            Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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            The MS9935 gasket set just showed up. They are definitely different than what is shown in post #1. Very glad I reached out to the list for input on this intake installation, I didn't have a good feeling about the first set. These fit very nice, and they self locate by resting on the tabs that stick out from the head gaskets. The cork gaskets are identical to the 340/360 set I have. Notice that the U shaped head opening above the exhaust gas port is not covered by the gasket. Evidently it just remains open, doesn't seem to lead to anything, so I guess it doesn't need to be sealed. The top photo is the intake gasket from FS 8553 PT-10, above the MS9935 intake gasket from the set I just received.


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            Last edited: Sep 26, 2021
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            • Coolvibes

              Coolvibes Well-Known Member

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              Would the OP's first gasket in post #1 (FS 8553 PT-10) be for an early 273 with a 2 barrel carb intake?
              I have a 1965 273 with 2 barrel intake, which has the exhaust crossovers. The OP 4 brl intake manifold does not appear to have the exhaust crossover, although the heads have them. It looks as if I attempted to use the MS9935 on my 2 brl manifold, there would be a gap between the manifold and the head in the area of the exhaust crossover.

              I am guessing that the 2 barrel carb needs the exhaust crossover to help with the thermal choke, while the 4 barrel carbs have electric choke?
               
            • Bob Jasinski

              Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I don't think the FS 8553 PT-10 is for early 273 engines. I did a product search on Rock Auto, and this is what I came up with:
              CHRYSLER CORDOBA 1978
              CHRYSLER LEBARON 1978
              CHRYSLER TOWN & COUNTRY 1978
              DODGE ASPEN 1978
              DODGE B100 1979-1980
              DODGE B150 1981
              DODGE B200 1979-1980
              DODGE B250 1981
              DODGE B300 1979-1980
              DODGE B350 1981
              DODGE CB300 1979-1980
              DODGE CHALLENGER 1970-1973
              DODGE CHARGER 1970-1978
              DODGE CORONET 1970-1973
              DODGE D100 PICKUP 1979
              DODGE D150 PICKUP 1979-1981
              DODGE D200 PICKUP 1979-1980
              DODGE D250 PICKUP 1981
              DODGE D300 PICKUP 1980
              DODGE D350 PICKUP 1981
              DODGE DART 1968-1973
              DODGE DIPLOMAT 1978
              DODGE MAGNUM 1978
              DODGE MONACO 1978
              DODGE POLARA 1972-1973
              DODGE RAMCHARGER 1979-1981
              DODGE RD200 1979-1980
              DODGE W150 PICKUP 1979-1981
              DODGE W200 PICKUP 1979-1980
              DODGE W250 PICKUP 1981
              PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA 1968-1973
              PLYMOUTH BELVEDERE 1971
              PLYMOUTH CARAVELLE 1978
              PLYMOUTH CUDA 1970-1973
              PLYMOUTH DUSTER 1970-1973
              PLYMOUTH FURY 1978
              PLYMOUTH PB100 1979
              PLYMOUTH PB150 1981
              PLYMOUTH PB200 1979-1980
              PLYMOUTH PB250 1981
              PLYMOUTH PB350 1981
              PLYMOUTH ROADRUNNER 1968-1973
              PLYMOUTH SATELLITE 1968-1973
              PLYMOUTH TRAILDUSTER 1979-1981
              PLYMOUTH VALIANT 1968-1973
              PLYMOUTH VOLARE 1978

              So, the earliest shown is 1968 Dart, Valiant, Roadrunner and Satellite.
               
            • Dartswinger70

              Dartswinger70 Only thing I ever bought new was a Fender Strat

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              I've always RTVd around the water ports, only because I dont like antifreeze leaking into the lifter valley, the anti freeze in oil will wipe out the bearings quick. Its something ive done for years as insurance.
               
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              • Bob Jasinski

                Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                So, getting ready to fit the manifold and just have one more question. The tabs that fit into the cork gaskets in the corners (pictured), that are part of the head gasket; do these tabs get bent down to hold the gasket before the manifold is set down, or does the manifold itself push them into place as its bolted down? I know RTV needs to be in these corners, and the water ports, but am wondering if the tabs need to be pressed down as well.

                DSC_4708[1].JPG DSC_4709[1].JPG
                 
              • oldkimmer

                oldkimmer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Yes u bend them down. U can also delete the end gaskets and run a bead of silicone. Do not put sealer on that gasket. It already has the sealer on it. Kim
                 
              • RustyRatRod

                RustyRatRod I was born on a Monday. Not last Monday. FABO Gold Member

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                I wouldn't use the cork end gaskets.
                 
              • cudamark

                cudamark FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                Personally, I use the cork end gaskets for stock applications. I bend down the tabs slightly to hold them in place. I run a bead of RTV on the seams between the side gaskets and the end gaskets, and also a little on the tabs and slots in the cork. If the head and intake surfaces are clean and not pitted, I don't use anything around the water or intake ports with those Teflon gaskets. I do use Copper Coat on both sides of the cork gaskets though.
                 
              • Bob Jasinski

                Bob Jasinski FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                OK, so if only RTV, no cork, tabs stay and are flattened down, then a bead of RTV. Before I decide between cork and RTV, I'm going to dry fit the manifold, and check clearances.
                 
                Last edited: Sep 27, 2021
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                • oldkimmer

                  oldkimmer FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                  . Great
                   
                • Coolvibes

                  Coolvibes Well-Known Member

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                  I think you are correct here, and I was wrong. The Fel-Pro MS9935 looks correct for the early 273. Thanks for the clarification.
                   
                • volaredon

                  volaredon Well-Known Member

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                  My son had a 360 built into a 408 last year, and against my suggestion, had the machine shop assemble it for him. Used RTV at Chinawalls instead of cork, and RTV around the back water ports in head (dead end at manifold, since T stat is at front) and it ran like SHIT. Couldnt adjust carb to save our life.... Got the Gumout spray out, bad vacuum leak by cyls 5-7 and 6-8. especially 6-8. I had him pull the intake and reseal it (engine has less than 2k miles on fresh build) and made sure he did it the right way (used cork end seals and no RTV around water ports) and that made a WORLD of difference. the only RTV was used where the cork gaskets meet the side gaskets at the head/block/manifold junction. Sealed right up, runs noticeably better. Mopars arent Chevys, RTV was a GM "cure all" from teh early 80s.... just because "it works on a Chevy" don't mean it works on a Mopar. I believe in minimal RTV. If I need a gasket holder or sealer, depending on where we are talking, I still use "Aviation" Permatex/"indian Head", or sometimes the yellow "gorilla snot" weatherstrip adhesive. Definitely makes it tough to get apart if there is a "next time" but doing things this way gives me alot less "next times" and I hate "redo's".
                   
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                  • Richard Sweet

                    Richard Sweet Well-Known Member

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                    Bob, How did the manifold test fitting go? Is the manifold on now?
                    What's next?
                     
                  • dartfreak75

                    dartfreak75 Restore it, Dont part it! FABO Gold Member

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                    I didn't use the plastic holders on mine i just put a thin layer of rtv on the gasket and set it in place then did the same on the other side then set my intake on. So far no leaks. With the valley part I used the gaskets and used a pretty thick layer of rtv on both sides. I know alot of people just do a single bead of rtv with no gasket but mine had a pretty large gap im assuming its probably where I milled my heads and didn't mill the intake to match. But I used the cork gasket in the kit with a liberal amount of rtv no leaks there either. The last photo is the gap between the block and intake.

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