Is my distributor off?

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Ashton

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Hey guys, just got everything back together and in from a 318 to 360 swap. The problem is the engine cranks but doesn't start. I also pulled a plug and tried to crabk and there was no spark. Would an off distributor do this? If so, can some one link me on how to set distributor on 360? Thanks!
 
Check the installation to be sure, but the distributor will fire regardless even if it's in wrong as long as the electrical is hooked up right.
 
as rustyrod says..the distributor will fire even if it out of time or out of phase....or even out of the engine...

check for voltages on the ballast resistor...coil...
 
Thanks guy for all the replies ill get out there tomorrow and test ballast, coil, wires with voltmeter see what I get.
 
"Work" all the harness connectors on the ECU, the distributor, and ballast to scrub them clean and "feel" for tightness. Make ABsoLUTEly CERtain that the ECU is grounded, so remove it, scrape the firewall and ECU clean, and use star lock washers.

Use a clip lead to temporarily jumper power right to the coil + connection then crank and check for spark. This will eliminate the wiring harness for testing. Do not leave this connected any longer than needed, not more than a minute.

Don't trust the coil wire. Check for spark with coil wire removed, hold a grounded probe near the top of the coil tower.

Check inside the distributor for rust/ debri and strike damage to the reluctor wheel and pickup.
 
Every single time I've had a no-spark it's been the ECU gone kaput. The ballast of course can go bad but you should still have spark in the start position.

The coil could go bad but I've rarely seen it on a cold engine. I bet your problem begins and ends in that darn ECU(if you have one, that is)
 
Every single time I've had a no-spark it's been the ECU gone kaput.
Not so loud! One member here swears that Mopar ECU's are extremely reliable and he never had one fail. I guess he didn't get one of the new batch from China. Also says they are better than a GM HEI module and only a heretic would use one of those.
 
Every single time I've had a no-spark it's been the ECU gone kaput.

I can't say my experience has been that definitive. Corroded / loose connectors, bad ground at the ECU, and especially bad connections at the distributor 2- wire connector

Once or twice, a bad coil wire/ cap/ rotor.
 
It ended up I wasnt getting spark from a bad connection in a wire. Fixed that problem. But the motor still is not starting. I know for a fact that there's a spark coming from the coil wire. My last guess is to bring up to TDC and re set distributor
 
Do a search, many posts on this, the short version............


Pull the no1 plug stick your finger in the hole, and bump until you feel compression.

Wrench the engine NOT to TDC, but where you want timing, IE about 15 BTC

Put the dist in, rotor pointing to no1 plug tower, with room to move the dist.

Adjust dist until reluctor is aligned with pickup coil core.

Start the engine.
 
Do a search, many posts on this, the short version............


Pull the no1 plug stick your finger in the hole, and bump until you feel compression.

Wrench the engine NOT to TDC, but where you want timing, IE about 15 BTC

Put the dist in, rotor pointing to no1 plug tower, with room to move the dist.

Adjust dist until reluctor is aligned with pickup coil core.

Start the engine.


Or you could push the reset button at the bottom of the distributor... :D
 
Or you could push the reset button at the bottom of the distributor... :D

It's on the bottom?

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It's on the bottom?

4e108901d465f_95731n.jpg



$%28KGrHqR,!lwE9KBdbvOZBPu+BRLNmw~~60_1.JPG

2773092611_670b00fa72_z.jpg


V16+distributor1219118322.jpg


100_3000.jpg


Yes, you have to look at them from the bottom of the shaft upwards to see them. Except five cylinder engines like the top one don't have one... These aren't the correct view....
 
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