K frame ID

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clementine

Flight risk
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Hello FABO!!

i have utilized the search function and Schumacher website to no avail. This is the new K i have. I need to identify and buy proper motor mounts.

67 barracuda 383 4 speed manual steering TTI 1 3/4 headers.

Thanks FABO!!

20220827_074300.jpg
 
It's a 68 to 72 Small Block K-member.

Not 67, because it's got the through bolt Idler Arm bracket. Through bolt is 68-72
 
What do you guys think. Should i put the support ends closer to the outside of the fenders? Id like to remove engine hoist for working room.

166162327653973388012.jpg
 
To answer my own question....Im thinking those outside fender supports are getting moved outboard in the area the hood sits in.
 
Hello FABO!!

i have utilized the search function and Schumacher website to no avail. This is the new K i have. I need to identify and buy proper motor mounts.

67 barracuda 383 4 speed manual steering TTI 1 3/4 headers.

Thanks FABO!!

View attachment 1715976411
I think that is for a small block v8. The driver side pad is farther forward on the K for a B/RB. I think.

Victor
 
Screw it, I'm using both hoist and support. Working in that ER has me jumpy in these situations working alone. PTSD or common sense? You be the judge.
 
What do you guys think. Should i put the support ends closer to the outside of the fenders? Id like to remove engine hoist for working room.

View attachment 1715976434

I know people install engine all the time using a lifting plate mounted mounted to an aluminum intake, but I am hear to tell you that using the threads in an aluminum intake is a very poor and dangerous setup. Most aluminum intakes are not cast from high quality materials. The four 5/16" carb stubs can handle the weight easily, but what they are mounted in wasn't designed to hold 500-600 pounds. I believe it's a really good way to get seriously hurt and tear up a lot of good hardware.

Also the shock towers are a lot stronger that the top of a fender.

Tom
 
I know people install engine all the time using a lifting plate mounted mounted to an aluminum intake, but I am hear to tell you that using the threads in an aluminum intake is a very poor and dangerous setup. Most aluminum intakes are not cast from high quality materials. The four 5/16" carb stubs can handle the weight easily, but what they are mounted in wasn't designed to hold 500-600 pounds. I believe it's a really good way to get seriously hurt and tear up a lot of good hardware.

Also the shock towers are a lot stronger that the top of a fender.

Tom
Is a chunk of wood under the balancer a bad idea in tandom with the support and hoist for a long term 'load helper ' while i get my situation sorted? Or flat piece of plywood under pan.
 
I would never try using the damper for a support. Plywood under the pan could smash the pan into the pick up. Building a U-shaped cradle out out some 2" x material that catches the sides of the oil pan rail would be a better place to support the engine in my opinion.

Tom
 
it's a quick fix for now. Ill fashion something better. It's taken a little load off top.

16616282917292099641207.jpg
 
motor mounts on order. put K together with LCA and struts last night. The drivers side is requiring some massaging of the LCA stamped metal for the strut to get past on its way to the forward part of K. Going for the LCA to move freely, Ill accept 'pretty good' as my usual hackery allows me this luxery. I will get it all together then tack in sway bar mounts, then take it all apart for paint n such. Ill keep you updated.

Does the later center link/drag link with the pitman arm that 'points down' (distal end with ball joint points down instead of up) allow for more room on the TTI's or am I looking for a 'shim kit' and pinging the header? My previous attempt of using a 1/4" shim on passenger side and 1" shim on drivers side was too luxerious on the hackery side and one of the reasons for this latest attempt at 'Les Hackery".

FABO ROCKS!!
 
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