LD4B installation on a 75 318

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Thanks for the continuing follow up posts! I plan to look over my kickdown linkage as I am not getting a downshift at cruising speed.
One question I do have for you though is this:

Lastly, the kickdown MUST have a return spring on it. Not just on the carburetor, but also on the kickdown linkage itself to pull it ALL the way FORWARD when the gas pedal is released. Failure to have this spring installed can result in very hard shifting going into drive, reverse and second gear."

I have not seen this in the parts cars that I had, nor does it show up in the FSM illustration. I guess I have to ask why the kickdown rod has a slot in it if we basically want the rod to travel with the throttle linkage? Why not just a rod with a hole in it?
C
 
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clhyer said:
Thanks for the continuing follow up posts! I plan to look over my kickdown linkage as I am not getting a downshift at cruising speed.
One question I do have for you though is this:

Lastly, the kickdown MUST have a return spring on it. Not just on the carburetor, but also on the kickdown linkage itself to pull it ALL the way FORWARD when the gas pedal is released. Failure to have this spring installed can result in very hard shifting going into drive, reverse and second gear."

I have not seen this in the parts cars that I had, nor does it show up in the FSM illustration. I guess I have to ask why the kickdown rod has a slot in it if we basically want the rod to travel with the throttle linkage? Why not just a rod with a hole in it?
C
Click to expand...

The kickdown rod is slotted because if the rod hangs up under full throttle this slot will allow the throttle to return safely to it's idle position instead of causing it to stick at full throttle. It's simply a safety slot.
 
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AJ/FormS said:
The original manifold may have had a choke timer mounted to it. It is very useful to extend the life of the choke element. It's job is to cut the power to the element after several minutes. They are usually mounted to the intake. They are nothing more than a a little relay with a heater and a bi-metal bar. Since they are mounted to the intake, they are somewhat sensitive to both ambient air temp, and engine temp.I always thought they did a great job. Jus saying.
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I took your advice and reinstalled my choke timer when i was doing my 2 to 4 swap. Thanks for the advice, it does work great.
 
Thanks for this. I have a 318 '75 Scamp and I want to do the same thing eventually. As a rookie, I figured I'd have to pay someone. After reading this, with all the detail you provided I think I can do this. You'll probably hear from me in the future! This could be my winter project.
 
Woody'sScamp said:
Thanks for this. I have a 318 '75 Scamp and I want to do the same thing eventually. As a rookie, I figured I'd have to pay someone. After reading this, with all the detail you provided I think I can do this. You'll probably hear from me in the future! This could be my winter project.
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It's definitely something you can do yourself if you have a basic mechanical understanding of how things work and are not afraid to learn a few things along the way. Ask away when you're ready.
 
I looked at ones like this from Mancini. I ended up buying this decal from Pentastar Parts in Australia almost 5 months ago. I saw another member's pictures and asked him where he got it. I can't get my "artist" wife to put it on yet. She's a graphic artist and does this stuff all the time, she keeps putting me off and I'm scared I'll screw it up! I think with the freight it was almost $45.00! But I really liked it!
318 Decal.jpg
Just got to get her to put it on. Good thing the car is far from being on the road! Good luck with yours.
 
Looks nice, though I hate "krylon motors" due to the deception they present to the unknown future buyer... if ever the case .
 
Woody'sScamp said:
I looked at ones like this from Mancini. I ended up buying this decal from Pentastar Parts in Australia almost 5 months ago. I saw another member's pictures and asked him where he got it. I can't get my "artist" wife to put it on yet. She's a graphic artist and does this stuff all the time, she keeps putting me off and I'm scared I'll screw it up! I think with the freight it was almost $45.00! But I really liked it! View attachment 1715183678 Just got to get her to put it on. Good thing the car is far from being on the road! Good luck with yours.
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What stage are you at with your 4bbl upgrade? That air cleaner looks good!
 
Hi
Wanted to say thanks for this great how to post!!
Wondering if everything is still working up to your expectations.
Also curious what camshaft you are using.

I am currently parts collecting to do a similar 4 barrel conversion on my all original 73 Scamp 318 AT using your outstanding parts list. I rounded up all the same parts other than choosing an Edelbrock 1403 500CFM carb and a Weiand 8007 manifold but still cant seem to locate the kickdown rod as shown in your photo.
Thought I would reach out to you to see if you or any other member might have one or know where to source one.
I put up a parts wanted listing but haven't received any responses as of yet.
Again thanks for the detailed post and appreciate any help locating this rod.

-Edelbrock LD4B intake manifold
-Edelbrock 1406 carb
-340 Six Pack coil mounting bracket (#407)
-Coil mounting bracket/ring (#8213)
-Throttle return spring, small block (#TS02)
-Throttle spring bracket, ’71 – ‘73 340 4 barrel (#736)
-Throttle cable bracket, ’68 - ’74 340/360 (#0060)
-Throttle kick-down spring, ’70-’74 (BF341)
-4 barrel kick-down rod (between carb and throttle bracket)
-Edelbrock carb linkage adaptor (1843)
-Fuel line flare fitting (AF440) only needed if you’re running a steel line to your carb instead of the suggested rubber line
-Edelbrock heat insulator gasket (9266)
-Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket (1243)
-Mopar performance valve cover gasket (MOPP5249581AB)

IMG_0966_zpse4szpz7t.jpg
 
Scampdude said:
Hi
Wanted to say thanks for this great how to post!!
Wondering if everything is still working up to your expectations.
Also curious what camshaft you are using.

I am currently parts collecting to do a similar 4 barrel conversion on my all original 73 Scamp 318 AT using your outstanding parts list. I rounded up all the same parts other than choosing an Edelbrock 1403 500CFM carb and a Weiand 8007 manifold but still cant seem to locate the kickdown rod as shown in your photo.
Thought I would reach out to you to see if you or any other member might have one or know where to source one.
I put up a parts wanted listing but haven't received any responses as of yet.
Again thanks for the detailed post and appreciate any help locating this rod.

-Edelbrock LD4B intake manifold
-Edelbrock 1406 carb
-340 Six Pack coil mounting bracket (#407)
-Coil mounting bracket/ring (#8213)
-Throttle return spring, small block (#TS02)
-Throttle spring bracket, ’71 – ‘73 340 4 barrel (#736)
-Throttle cable bracket, ’68 - ’74 340/360 (#0060)
-Throttle kick-down spring, ’70-’74 (BF341)
-4 barrel kick-down rod (between carb and throttle bracket)
-Edelbrock carb linkage adaptor (1843)
-Fuel line flare fitting (AF440) only needed if you’re running a steel line to your carb instead of the suggested rubber line
-Edelbrock heat insulator gasket (9266)
-Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket (1243)
-Mopar performance valve cover gasket (MOPP5249581AB)

View attachment 1715852805
Click to expand...
Very well done. Will the throttle cable work with the 4 barrel carburetor? I don't know from personal experience but I've always been told that the cable that runs from the pedal to the carburetor are different lengths for the 2 and 4 barrel carburetors.
 
Dan the man said:
Very well done. Will the throttle cable work with the 4 barrel carburetor? I don't know from personal experience but I've always been told that the cable that runs from the pedal to the carburetor are different lengths for the 2 and 4 barrel carburetors.
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Lucky for me, when I changed from 2bbl to correct 4bbl intake and carb on my ‘67 273, I found the correct throttle cable bracket, and that allowed me to use the 2bbl throttle cable. I guess for '67 they are the same?


DartEngineAfter2.jpg
 
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The 4 barrel bracket works better for aftermarket intakes.
 
Wow, times flies as it’s been over 5 years since I did the upgrade. All this time later and I’m still happy with the results and haven’t changed much on the car since then.

The 4bbl kick down rod will be the most challenging piece depending on if there’s any being sold on eBay or the classifieds here. I found mine on eBay after checking for a few weeks. Do a search in here and if you’ve got some welding skills some modify/make their own from a 2bbl rod.

As for the throttle cable length, I was able to reuse my original 2bbl cable.

Let us know how it goes!
 
H22A4 said:
Wow, times flies as it’s been over 5 years since I did the upgrade. All this time later and I’m still happy with the results and haven’t changed much on the car since then.

The 4bbl kick down rod will be the most challenging piece depending on if there’s any being sold on eBay or the classifieds here. I found mine on eBay after checking for a few weeks. Do a search in here and if you’ve got some welding skills some modify/make their own from a 2bbl rod.

As for the throttle cable length, I was able to reuse my original 2bbl cable.

Let us know how it goes!
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Awesome to hear!
Yes I havent been able to find but will keep looking.

So did you upgrade your cam as well? If so what did you decide to go wirh?

Thanks
 
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