Let's be honest....

New Hemi Engine Swaps

  1. /6 Matt

    /6 Matt 30 Degrees Crooked

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    I know this thread is terribly old, but I just wanna point out that you really shouldn't bother paying $180 for a ministarter when you can just pull a starter out of any pre '98 (?) magnum motor truck in the junkyard.

    The only fix that these starters hardly ever require is a set of contacts that costs less than $20.
     
  2. cnddodgehead

    cnddodgehead Well-Known Member

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    ok where did you get those valve covers ?????
     
  3. RockinRobin

    RockinRobin Well-Known Member

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    I put a 5.7 stroker built by Tony Bischoff in my 70 Duster drag car almost 2 years ago. It has a Mopar drag pak manifold and a 1050 Holley Dominator on top of it, for drag racing only. I went with the carb because it made the conversion much cheaper, and I am a tight ass! :)
    Why the Hemi instead of a big block? Much lighter in weight. The car weighs 2800lbs. So far the car has been very consistent at the track. The only reason it doesn't win more is driver error!
    Things I would have done different:
    1. If you want to do 12.5:1 compression like my motor, do some research 1st on spark plugs. I waited until AFTER the motor was built to discover there's not much out there with a cold enough heat range for that compression ratio. I run Brisk ER12S and they do just fine and last forever.
    2. If you want to run a motor plate, you need a truck front cover, again, didn't realize that until after the motor was built.
    3. The only headers available for the swap will still require that you apply some "adjustments" with a hammer. :-(
     
  4. Dusterfreak

    Dusterfreak Well-Known Member

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    Hi!! Ok, whats the conclusion after 6,5 years since this threat was started. What do I need for swapping gen3 Hemi to a Duster??
    - Engine, what year? Truck or a car?
    - Center sump oil pan, will a milodon pan clear original centerlink?
    -Steeringbox, I want to keep my power steering, will a borgeson box fit??
    - K-member, stock or tubular?
    -If I ever get my hands on one of those engines It'll be EFI for sure, MS3 based.
    I know these things are asked many times but I couldn't find accurate answers. I'm in Finland so that doesn't make my plans any easier.
     
  5. 72BBSwinger

    72BBSwinger Well-Known Member

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    Get a car engine with as low of miles as possible, a 6.1 preferably.
    Yes
    Yes
    Stock K unless you have money to burn
     
  6. sireland67

    sireland67 Well-Known Member

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    I have been thinking of buying a new hemi, for a future project, one just popped up to me 30 miles away, complete for $800, I am thinking about grabbing it.
    Also have my eye on a 47 dodge truck that has a 273 4-speed, so it may be a fun project, the truck runs and drives, but the old 273 sounds tired.
     
  7. moparmat2000

    moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    What about a dual carb intake, then run something like a FAST EFI under the air cleaner. Modern running, old skool looks.

    Tastes great - less filling
     
  8. RockinRobin

    RockinRobin Well-Known Member

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    As long as you don't plan on a race build or something, those EFI systems are only good up to 600hp.
     
  9. Rat Patrol

    Rat Patrol Well-Known Member

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    Only one decent dual quad intake for carbs or 4bbl EFI TB - thats the Edelbrock dual plane dual quad. Even then...the plenums are old school size and benefit greatly from spacers...IF you can fit them under the hood.

    You're better off just using the OCP dual plan single carb intake unLess you go to a Ritter/Drag Pack with a big stick and bigger converter.
     
  10. 65cuda340

    65cuda340 Well-Known Member

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    433hemi.jpg Here's my aluminum 433 3rd gen with Hilborn injection. I think it will look kinda old school in my '65 Barracuda (rendering sitting between the injectors).
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
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    • YoungDart75

      YoungDart75 Well-Known Member

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      So did we never get anywhere with a final list due to the constant whiners nitpicking his idea and direction he was taking his build? Pondering minds want to know.
       
      Last edited: Jun 22, 2017
    • Rat Patrol

      Rat Patrol Well-Known Member

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      • Ignition ECU – MSD 6-HEMI P# 6013
      • ECU to coil Harness – MSD P# 88864
      • Engine mounts – TTI – MM57A
      • MP Flex plate adapter – P5153753
      • Milodon Sump – MIL31000,
      • Milodon Pick up – MIL18331
      • Milodon bolt kit
      • Milodon or factory splash tray
      • Milodon pan gaskets
      • Milodon Oil dipstick
      • Lokar flexible transmission dipstick
      • Lokar accelerator cable
      • Lokar kickdown cable
      • Manifold – Carb(s) - Air cleaner
      • Aluminium Radiator
      • Hoses
      • Electric Fans
      • PS delete pulley
      • Headers
      • Remote oil filter set up or Dakota filter mount
      • TTI block off plate
      • Idler pulley
      • intake & exhaust Gaskets
      • Jeep 6.1 Alternator pre 2011 with external regulator.
      • Main Cap oil pick up stud # 6506333A
      • Main Cap bolt #06506272AA M12X1.75X91.2

      There are some parts that can be substituted..such as factory hoses for universal etc...but pretty much most if this list is whats needed.
       
    • YoungDart75

      YoungDart75 Well-Known Member

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      Pretty sweet setup 65cuda340, I think it'll look pretty nasty in there.

      Also great list Rat Patrol. It really clarified a few things for me. Thanks a lot.
       
    • 65cuda340

      65cuda340 Well-Known Member

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      Thanks--It's getting there, but slowly. 2017-07-26 firewall right front(1).JPG
       
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      • HemiMark

        HemiMark Well-Known Member

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        Just had my 340 Hilborn Fuel injected (EFI conversion) on the Dyno, looks killer.

        IMG_3938.JPG
         
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        • 65cuda340

          65cuda340 Well-Known Member

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          That does look good! What were your dyno numbers? What's it going in?
           
        • HemiMark

          HemiMark Well-Known Member

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          390 HP @ 4800 RPM

          IMG_4195.JPG

          IMG_4687.JPG
           
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          • 65cuda340

            65cuda340 Well-Known Member

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            Yeah, I figured those tall stacks would give you a good low rpm power peak. They will look awesome too! I would have gone with taller stacks, but wanted to keep a relatively low hood profile. I'm using an AAR type scoop; still need to work out a panel filter setup and seal that to the scoop. I have a road racing profile cam, and a nice flat torque curve--543@3,700, 596 peak@5,000, and still above 550@6,000. Horsepower peaked at 641@6,400, but that was before the dry sump system and tuning by Hilborn and MoTec.
            Hey, I see you have a Butch Leal door and fender! Do you have the whole car?
             
          • HemiMark

            HemiMark Well-Known Member

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            Your engine is beautiful and nice power to boot! I love it. I'm wasn't aiming for big HP for I really want to drive this thing everywhere. The Flash is being restored back to original by my god friends Old Man Mopar and Hemidenny. Here is the thread.
            Turning back the clock
             
            Last edited: Aug 26, 2017
          • 65cuda340

            65cuda340 Well-Known Member

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            Mine is going to be a driver too, although I have gotten in a little deeper than originally planned.
            Oh man, that Duster restoration is beautiful! Looks like it is nearing completion too. I saw Butch's previous car run at the Gatornationals in '74, along with many of my other old favorites, so that really brings back some good memories. Well, not all good, since our tent burned to the ground the second day of qualifying with everything in it except the clothes we were wearing--which smelled pretty bad by Sunday! We even lost our tickets and pit passes, so we had to sneak in the last 3 days. That was a memorable spring break trip.
             
          • HemiMark

            HemiMark Well-Known Member

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            great story for sure! shame you lost everything though.
             
          • turbofreek

            turbofreek batcrap crazy racing team

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            so what do we do about alt wiring and voltage regulators? do we eliminate the remote regulator or change it to something else??

            far from ugly with an elbow on it. wait till the twins are mounted...pic for attention

            20180214_204821.jpg
             
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            • moparmat2000

              moparmat2000 FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              What happened to your grille?
               
            • Map63Vette

              Map63Vette Well-Known Member

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              I kept the factory external regulator, but mostly just because it was already there. I prefer the idea of an external regulator and how they function, but ultimately it doesn't make a huge difference. A one-wire setup is easier to wire in if you don't already have wiring in the engine bay.
               
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              • turbofreek

                turbofreek batcrap crazy racing team

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                had a set of turbos sticking through it. new grill they are going behind it now.
                 
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