Let's get this slant turbo project started. 71 Dart

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CichliDart said:
Happy Holidays Mopar Guys and Gals.

12/24/14 working tonight, family tomorrow and maybe if the weathers good on the weekend I can play with my MSD setup.

Would like to bypass the Ballast resistor since it seems to be the weak link in the ignition system. I really don't want to drive this thing in the rain right now but would be nice to make the ignition more reliable.

Serj22 that is a good price on the box of Holley jets that Bill posted. I picked up one a few months back as I rarely get off my *** to work on the car, I don't want to have to run to the part store while working on it. Too easily distracted apparently : )

Any suggestions on fuel line and fittings? Serj22 I had never heard of push lock (SP) until I saw you post on it. I will be probably be adding the walbro pump and Aeromotive regulator want to plumb the lines so it is safe, and can pass tech if I want to take it to the track.


Be safe when you drive guys!

Mike
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I am not 100% certain, but I think the setups that utilize the MSD Blaster coils don't use a ballast resistor in the circuit. I have an MSD 6-AL on my slant six car, and it doesn't use one. I also have an MSD Boost Timing Master on my supercharged 360 Magnum, and it doesn't recommend using one with that spark-retard ignition module.

That's my 2-cents' worth...:happy1:
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http://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/snow-performance?autoview=ProductName

Heads up if you need refills or parts for Snow Patrol. Summit is having a 10% off sale.


Bill and Serj22(Andy?),

Sorry about not replying sooner. For some reason I am not getting notified when I get replies. I think when we had that last website crash some of my settings were lost. I think I need to resubscribe to my own thread.

Thank you both for the information on Push lock and A/N fittings. I was having trouble converting sizes and your information helped! Since I only need to do a couple short pieces of fuel line I may just go with wire braided with A/N fittings for now. Later on if I get more exotic like Bill's ride I may try the pushlock set up.

Not one thing accomplished on the car. Although I did drain all the coolant out last week when the temps went to freezing. I don't think I had enough anti freeze in the coolant to prevent freezing. Is it me or do they almost only sell the 50/50 premix antifreeze now? The straight antifreeze prices I saw were stupid. I guess that is what we get when we have to dumb things down for people that can't figure out how much to add to their cooling system :wack:

Mike

Bill Dedman said:
I am not 100% certain, but I think the setups that utilize the MSD Blaster coils don't use a ballast resistor in the circuit. I have an MSD 6-AL on my slant six car, and it doesn't use one. I also have an MSD Boost Timing Master on my supercharged 360 Magnum, and it doesn't recommend using one with that spark-retard ignition module.

That's my 2-cents' worth...:happy1:
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[QUOTE

Bill posted on the Push-Loc. I have not used it, just the similar tubing for boat applications - on boats. I don't know if a full push-loc setup would pass tech, everything I read near me dictates that hard line must be used, and no rubber - unless it's less than a foot long, and braided is ok. I don't remember what it said about push-loc but it could be just fine for the entire run.

I just didn't like the idea of leaving something cuttable running under the car. Sabotage just comes to mind. Especially in your area where you are having issues just keeping tires on the car. It only takes someone a little smarter to realize they can cut the fuel line and your whole tank will drain into the street which is so much "cooler" than just slashing the tires. Maybe that's a silly thought, but it is something I think about - it only takes one jerk. So hard line is what I used, and braided where it needed to connect to stuff.

I actually found a better deal on jets that range from 50-70 and is only $20, which is all I'll be using anyway.

As for fittings, buy them all in bulk, otherwise you'll be paying about $10/each for one piece, especially if you're going the A/N route which becomes annoying if you're missing a part and have to make due with what the hardware store has - which is flare, or npt, and neither of them mate up well, but if you do wind up doing AN and need a quick fix conversion, AN is written in 16ths, so a 4 is 4/16 (1/4) and a 10 is 10/16ths (5/8ths) etc etc... ]
 

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So finally the stars aligned and I got to do something on the car.
I installed my MSD6 BTM. Prior to this the car would not start. I assumed another bad ballast resistor. Guess what? Still won't start. No spark. So I need to ferret out whatever the reason is for not getting a spark. While doing this I noticed the previous owner either never tightened the distributor or did it so loose the bolt backed off. So who knows what the timing was but it ran really well prior to the non start issue. Fortunately the slant has that little bracket around the bolt to keep it from getting too far out of range.
 
I'd assume if it turns over, and you can shock yourself on the tach side of the coil, that it should go - otherwise - maybe the coil is bad?

Throwing an MSD on it before getting it to start might complicate it too much. That's why I left my MSD6ALN off when I finished assembly, and I had enough problems trying to get the car to start without it. I still don't know if I'm going to drop it in, or sell it, and use this spare mopar ecu box I got with the purchase of the '74 dart to build a stock looking HEI setup.
 
Serj22 said:
I'd assume if it turns over, and you can shock yourself on the tach side of the coil, that it should go - otherwise - maybe the coil is bad?

Throwing an MSD on it before getting it to start might complicate it too much. That's why I left my MSD6ALN off when I finished assembly, and I had enough problems trying to get the car to start without it. I still don't know if I'm going to drop it in, or sell it, and use this spare mopar ecu box I got with the purchase of the '74 dart to build a stock looking HEI setup.
Click to expand...

No power getting to the coil at this time. No power getting to the wire the Previous owner used for the Electronic ignition either. I just need to start at the battery and move to the fuse panel, steering column etc until I track it down. Noticed someone had ran a couple wires up and the steering column, my guess is to the ignition switch but will not know until I get to testing.

I completeley agree about Complicating things by adding the MSD on without fixing the original problem. I did think by bypassing the Ballast resistor that I was. Guess I should have bought one more of those for old time sake and gave it a try : ) :cheers:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/slant-6-six...80339453?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276#ht_20wt_1295

"set of Pro Tru pistons .45 over a set of molnar H beam rods and wiseco piston pins and crane solid lift cam lifters timing set plus rebuilt head with stainless valve standard size and the comp cams springs installed everything you see"


I was interested in this myself but not enough money at the moment. Maybe one of you can use this. From a previous auction of these items by the seller he informed me the head is not shaved, the valves are stock sized. Mid seventies engine.
 
Again, this is NOT mine. I don't think I would Turbo this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251841463124?item=251841463124&viewitem=&vxp=mtr#ht_412wt_1295

"Aluminium 225 Slant Six engine block with main caps, bolts & main seal caps.
The block has been cleaned, inspected & has some weld & epoxy corrosion repairs.
This is Chrysler die casting number 28,677 out of approximately 50,000 units produced in the 1960 thru 62 time period.

The block had corroded a hole thru the back water jacket so we cleaned everything, installed a plug and welded it in, then covered both sides of the repaired area with high temperature epoxy.
A few other corrosion "pits" were cleaned, welded and / or epoxy repaired.

We also installed 1 inch of special block filler to even-out & strengthen the the floor of the water jacket, then did some oil passage deburring work.
The head gasket sealing area (top "deck) was re-machined flat. (resurfaced .010)

All the main caps, main seal caps & special bottom end bolts come with this block. These parts are all in great condition.
The bores are standard size, not cracked & show a slight wear ridge. (normal wear, no double ridges or deep scratches from broken ring(s)
We recommend buying new pistons and boring the cylinders but this block could also be "re-ringed".

All the special Aluminium Slant Six block parts are here so you can swap-over all the other needed parts from a common cast iron Slant Six.
We have a lot of experience with these special engines and can build the short block for you, (at an extra cost) or we can provide good used parts you may need to build this engine yourself. (Send us a message for details)

So here is your chance to get a "known good" Chrysler aluminium Slant Six engine block.
Due to the fragile nature and size of this item, local pick-up is preferred. ( no charge for local pick-up)
This engine block can be shipped UPS so see the shipping calculator for that cost. There is an extra "packaging charge" if we have to pack & ship this item."
 
Have you teied jumping the relay and then jumping the starter straight to the battery and seeing what haooens? Basically by passing everything inside the car. Also did you test the msd unit by arcing the wires together while hooked up to the battery?
 
Serj22 said:
Have you teied jumping the relay and then jumping the starter straight to the battery and seeing what haooens? Basically by passing everything inside the car. Also did you test the msd unit by arcing the wires together while hooked up to the battery?
Click to expand...

Finally got to work on it last weekend and this weekend.

Removed the MSD.
Reinstalled the Mopar electronic ignition and rewired the wire that was just twisted and taped. It started right up. Ran great.

Tuesday night I went to start it and it spins but won't start.

Today(Saturday) I swapped out the Ballast resistor but it still would not start. I put the timing light on it and remote starter switch with the key left in the on position and cranked it over but no light on the timing light. (BTW the car has gas)

I did notice when I was trying to start it with the key that when I released the key and turned it toward the off position it would do a momentary stumble, like it had a spark. I did this several times with that same result. I assume I have a short somewhere which is intermittent.

I eventually got a hot electric smell from the ballast resistor so I unhooked the battery and called it a day.

I presume that if I run a hot wire direct from the battery to the coil and then crank it over it will start. I will give this a try tomorrow. Whether this works or not I need to track down what I presume is a short, perhaps in the ignition switch in the column?

Process of elimination and work my way through this until I track it down.

Any advice is always welcome : )

Mike
 
Serj22 said:
Have you teied jumping the relay and then jumping the starter straight to the battery and seeing what haooens? Basically by passing everything inside the car. Also did you test the msd unit by arcing the wires together while hooked up to the battery?
Click to expand...

Forgot to mention, I did give your suggestion a go but no spark. I think the ignition problem with both ignition systems has the same root cause. Fix it for one and it should work for the other.

Thanks!

Mike
 
CichliDart said:
I did notice when I was trying to start it with the key that when I released the key and turned it toward the off position it would do a momentary stumble, like it had a spark. I did this several times with that same result. I assume I have a short somewhere which is intermittent.
Click to expand...

My 78 truck did this and it turned out to be the ignition module. Run a good extra ground wire to the corner of the module, if the module is still good this should fix it. If the module isn't good you will want to do this to its replacement to keep it from burning out.
 
jerame_c said:
My 78 truck did this and it turned out to be the ignition module. Run a good extra ground wire to the corner of the module, if the module is still good this should fix it. If the module isn't good you will want to do this to its replacement to keep it from burning out.
Click to expand...

Thank you Jerame.

I will do just that.
Just got in some new wire and loop crimp connectors.
I will do this for the Ignition Module as well as the Voltage regulator. The ground wire on the voltage regulator is ratty and I don't trust it. Had not though to do the ignition module but will do just that.

Mike
 
Finally got it running again!

I cannot put my finger on what the exact problem was.
I grounded the ignition module, grounded the voltage regulator and swapped it as I had a NOS one, replaced the ends on the coil wire as they were ratty and loose, recrimped a couple other lines.

Tried running a hot line straight to the coil but no spark, very very faint light on the test light when I checked for power. Also very faint on half the ballast resistor, much less than I think it would have even though that side is reduced.

Swapped out the coil and popped the cap and checked the rotor to make sure it spins when the engine cranks. Adjusted the distributor as I recalled it was not tightened in the past and I just tightened it where it lay when I found it was loose.
No Start!

Sat in the driver seat and started testing the fuse panel and one fuse was getting no power. I bridged it with a wire lead and the car started.

When I removed the lead and turned the car off and started it that fuse remains hot.

So I am not certain of the exact problem but I am going to go through as much of the car as possible checking connections and resoldering, grounding things and replacing things as I think it needs. Maybe even spring for a new aftermarket wiring harness.

Mike

CichliDart said:
Thank you Jerame.

I will do just that.
Just got in some new wire and loop crimp connectors.
I will do this for the Ignition Module as well as the Voltage regulator. The ground wire on the voltage regulator is ratty and I don't trust it. Had not though to do the ignition module but will do just that.

Mike
Click to expand...
 
CichliDart said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/361321223217?item=361321223217&viewitem=&vxp=mtr

Not for me, but maybe someone can hack this up for a turbo manifold
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I was thinking about that earlier, hacking up a broken set of headers, but even then almost be just building it from scratch. There's flanges available for about $50 on ebay too to just make it. I am looking for a stock manifold right now to cut up and do this:

075_zpscx2jpbyg.jpg


070_zpsqvrkcosw.jpg


064_zpsczw5jn70.jpg


It's too brilliant not to do, gets rid of one of the exhaust points that could leak (the heat valve pocket) and no welding on cast iron.

If you find me two exhaust manifolds, I'll make a pair if you want to try it.
 
Serj22 said:
I was thinking about that earlier, hacking up a broken set of headers, but even then almost be just building it from scratch. There's flanges available for about $50 on ebay too to just make it. I am looking for a stock manifold right now to cut up and do this:


It's too brilliant not to do, gets rid of one of the exhaust points that could leak (the heat valve pocket) and no welding on cast iron.

If you find me two exhaust manifolds, I'll make a pair if you want to try it.
Click to expand...

Building a tubing header for this engine is not easy, but it can be done. My ex-partner cannot weld; he has a pacemaker for his heart (as di I,) and welding is a no-no for us. (I can't weld, anyway; no training nor experience.)

I broadly suggested the parameters for this header, acquired the flanges, tubing (1.625") and collectors and gave them to him. He put them together in the required configuration, by adhesive-taping the pieces together (really!), and took them to a welder. who T.I.G.-welded them together. They are 16-gauge, mild steel. Then we took the finished piece to a plating service in Midland, Arkansas (we are in Little Rock, 140 miles south of Midland,) and had them ceramic-coated, imside and out.
This is what they look like; I think my ex-partner did pretty good job, for a first time effort. I never TOUCHED them...

You can do it...
 

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Serj22 said:
I was thinking about that earlier, hacking up a broken set of headers, but even then almost be just building it from scratch. There's flanges available for about $50 on ebay too to just make it. I am looking for a stock manifold right now to cut up and do this:

075_zpscx2jpbyg.jpg


070_zpsqvrkcosw.jpg


064_zpsczw5jn70.jpg


It's too brilliant not to do, gets rid of one of the exhaust points that could leak (the heat valve pocket) and no welding on cast iron.

If you find me two exhaust manifolds, I'll make a pair if you want to try it.
Click to expand...

Wow, very innovative Dave!

I like the clamp, where there's a will there's a way.

I will keep my eyes out for spare exhaust manifolds at the pick n pulls.

Much as I like the Pishta J pipe a direct bolt up would make for tidyer install.

A couple months back I found someones hacked up pipes. Like the plates they sell on ebay, but a few inches of header pipe still welded on.

I own a welder but have not been successfull with it the one time I brought it out to try.
A friend of mine is going to give another friend and I lessons this summer. Really looking forward to that! I want to be able to install my own mufflers and weld up my k frame and other things.

Mike
 
Bill Dedman said:
Building a tubing header for this engine is not easy, but it can be done. My ex-partner cannot weld; he has a pacemaker for his heart (as di I,) and welding is a no-no for us. (I can't weld, anyway; no training nor experience.)

I broadly suggested the parameters for this header, acquired the flanges, tubing (1.625") and collectors and gave them to him. He put them together in the required configuration, by adhesive-taping the pieces together (really!), and took them to a welder. who T.I.G.-welded them together. They are 16-gauge, mild steel. Then we took the finished piece to a plating service in Midland, Arkansas (we are in Little Rock, 140 miles south of Midland,) and had them ceramic-coated, imside and out.
This is what they look like; I think my ex-partner did pretty good job, for a first time effort. I never TOUCHED them...

You can do it...
Click to expand...

Looks like a work of art Bill.

If anyone can do it, Dave can. Give him a few more projects and I am sure he will be doing these.
Oh Bill, saw this on ebay and thought of you.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/15171577864...l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT#ht_169wt_1217

I have confidence in the 904 with a turbo slant. I know people run them behind high performance 8 cylinders. I think yours breaking was just a fluke. If I decide to go automatic I will be using a 904. I think there are too many advantages to not use one with the power I would hope to make. Glad you got to go to the track!

Mike



Mike
 
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