Lets talk stall converters

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Got a real good deal worked out on a Mopar Performance torque converter P/N P4876876 from a fellow member here, im gonna start with that one and see from there.

I have a second 360 Magnum that im taking my sweet time to build that's going to be a lot more wild of a 408 stroker with Aluminum heads ext than the stock bottom end stock heads on one in the car now so it will almost definitely need a more radical converter than this current motor.
 
Dig into the part number and you may find its from Turbo-Action. That was always up front and you could cross reference it to T/A's info. and get support from them.

'Stall' is a funny number. It moves up or down depending on the power. That's why its good to go with a known combo or like the guys posted in the beginning - provide all of the info about the engine and setup as honestly as you can.
My story is that I had TA tighten a converter and then got a part throttle flat spot or dead spot. Fixed it by fixing the timing curve and and tweaking the carb.
 
abodyjoe said:
that 11" and only 2250-2350 stall? i wouldn't waste my time putting that in.
Click to expand...


Yup. The OP just stepped right on his dick.

I’m always amazed to watch these threads as they unfold.

Ultimately they make a decision on the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT COMPONENT of an automatic car based on saving a buck.

Then the car runs half assed. The OP won’t know because he’s never driven a car with the correct converter to be able to evaluate his decision.

It’s called stepping over a donut to pick up a dog turd. No matter what, it’s still a dog turd.

Those old converters are just that. The newest converters run circles around the old converters. Especially in drivability.

Just my .02 for what it’s worth.
 
I would've thought an actual mopar performance one would be a good one, guess i was wrong. I did send out a bunch of emails lastnight to the custom builders suggested.
 
Dusty 997 said:
I would've thought an actual mopar performance one would be a good one, guess i was wrong. I did send out a bunch of emails lastnight to the custom builders suggested.
Click to expand...


I’m not saying that. I do NOT want to queer the deal.

I’m saying you are taking a big chance, and your lack of experience makes it difficult to know if the converter is doing what it’s supposed to do.

I don’t know what the deal is and I don’t want to know. I hope like hell the converter works well enough to make you happy.

That’s all that matters. If that happens then you got a great deal.
 
Getting it cheap enough that if its not, im out next to nothing money wise, minus all the work it takes to install one.

But if the consensus is ill be leaving a lot on the table i may just add it to my parts collection as a spare or to use in something else.

Still looking forward to heating back from the custom builders i contacted.
 
That's comparable to a stock 340 converter.

I put that one in the pinion snubber category... good for a door stop. :)

About as 180* as you can get from what you want.
 
crackedback said:
That's comparable to a stock 340 converter.

I put that one in the pinion snubber category... good for a door stop. :)

About as 180* as you can get from what you want.
Click to expand...
Shelf Warmer shell be. Might be a good one for a future stockish motor truck build.
 
I'll just add again that I street (and track) drive an 8"ATI Treemaster conv in my avatar that flash stalls right at 5000 rpm. I've not had such a high stall conv until this one. I do NOT believe you need such a high stall speed as I believe @abodyjoe gave great input on his and how something like that would be recommended for your combo.

Based on my experience with mine, I"m just reiterating that a modern high stall TC from a reputable company can drive like a stock TC until you drop the hammer. The avatar idles around 900 rpm and you have to keep your foot on the brake at a red-light. Pulling away in traffic appears and feels just like any stock TC. But apply some Wheaties and...hang on, your buttometer will be all smiles! And 160-170F trans temps on the street are certainly fine to me. You won't regret having you some variant of a 3200-3500 stall speed TC!
 
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Demonx2 said:
I'll just add again that I street (and track) drive an 8"ATI Treemaster conv in my avatar that flash stalls right at 5000 rpm. I've not had such a high stall conv until this one. I do NOT believe you need such a high stall speed as I believe @abodyjoe gave great input on his and how something like that would be recommended for your combo.

Based on my experience with mine, I"m just reiterating that a modern high stall TC from a reputable company can drive like a stock TC until you drop the hammer. The avatar idles around 900 rpm and you have to keep your foot on the brake at a red-light. Pulling away in traffic appears and feels just like any stock TC. But apply some Wheaties and...hang on, your buttometer will be all smiles! And 160-170F trans temps on the street are certainly fine to me. You won't regret having you some 3200-3500 stall speed TC!
Click to expand...

Just curious, what did you use for trans temps? mounted in the pan or in line? I worry so much bout my trans now i am thinking of actually getting stuff to daig/warn me of problems
 
Icetech said:
Just curious, what did you use for trans temps? mounted in the pan or in line? I worry so much bout my trans now i am thinking of actually getting stuff to daig/warn me of problems
Click to expand...
I use a temp sensor on the output flow line to the trans cooler. A sensor in the pan makes plenty of sense but you'd be surprised how much variation you can get depending on where it is in the pan. This was learned on numerous dyno engines with thermocouples installed in oil pans in various locations. Engines and transmissions shared this observation (I'm a retired OEM engine engineer). So to get a consistent temp and one that is coming from the pump omeaning fluid that is used), I chose the fluid outlet line. Note that you have to be certain to get the temp sensor tip into the fluid flowpath and not in a deadhead zone/area.
 

I'm gonna be pulling my trans this weekend to change the converter.. not looking forward to it but not a bad job.. got too lazy :)
 
Dusty 997 said:
I would've thought an actual mopar performance one would be a good one, guess i was wrong. I did send out a bunch of emails lastnight to the custom builders suggested.
Click to expand...
What is the diameter is it 10" or 11"? Most folks on here aren't old enough to know that all of the automatic street Hemi cars came with an 10" 2500-2600 stall converter and 3.23 gears.
When I got my 68 B029 SS/AA HEMI cuda it came with a 10" 3500-3600 stall converter it would flash to 3800 on launch. Later after losing the stator sprag, all the talk then was the new B&M 9" 5000 stall converter and it's wow difference so I got one. With the engine at a clean idle of 1800 rpm it would flash to 5200 and pick up the front end and leave HARD big diff.
 
Alfajim said:
What is the diameter is it 10" or 11"? Most folks on here aren't old enough to know that all of the automatic street Hemi cars came with an 10" 2500-2600 stall converter and 3.23 gears.
When I got my 68 B029 SS/AA HEMI cuda it came with a 10" 3500-3600 stall converter it would flash to 3800 on launch. Later after losing the stator sprag, all the talk then was the new B&M 9" 5000 stall converter and it's wow difference so I got one. With the engine at a clean idle of 1800 rpm it would flash to 5200 and pick up the front end and leave HARD big diff.
Click to expand...
ALF, then you lost the stator did it slip or act like it had no stall and wouldn't rev?
 
Alfajim said:
What is the diameter is it 10" or 11"? Most folks on here aren't old enough to know that all of the automatic street Hemi cars came with an 10" 2500-2600 stall converter and 3.23 gears.
When I got my 68 B029 SS/AA HEMI cuda it came with a 10" 3500-3600 stall converter it would flash to 3800 on launch. Later after losing the stator sprag, all the talk then was the new B&M 9" 5000 stall converter and it's wow difference so I got one. With the engine at a clean idle of 1800 rpm it would flash to 5200 and pick up the front end and leave HARD big diff.
Click to expand...
wowwwie. thats bad ***!
 
I have a stock hi-stall 340 converter behind a stone stock Sixpack 440. It works really well for my application.
For a more radical smallblock (read: a bunch less low rpm torque) you'll need quite a bit more converter, imo.
And a cheap aftermarket converter was the worst speed part I EVER bought.
 
I bought a cheap converter once, installed it, ran it in the shop, pulled it out and tossed it in the dumpster in front of the guy who told me to buy it!
I ordered a Turbo Action J converter on Monday, this was in 1990.
 
71Demon540 said:
Yep!

If you call you’ll talk to Nick initially (Rick’s son). He will steer you in the direction you want to go. But if you get Rick, ya he doesn’t short change customer service.


I talk to Nick and Rick almost daily and they work nonstop.
Click to expand...
I still need to call them about "flex"plate recommendations
 
I missed the part where all of the experts asked how much the vehicle weighs while helping you choose a converter....????
 
Icetech said:
ALF, then you lost the stator did it slip or act like it had no stall and wouldn't rev?
Click to expand...
No stall it wouldn't rev finished the meet by neutral start asked for permission to be allowed to do it that is one real hard launch like a 4sp car. didn't have roller clutch issues either as the Chrysler manual valve body was low band apply in first.
 
Alfajim said:
No stall it wouldn't rev finished the meet by neutral start asked for permission to be allowed to do it that is one real hard launch like a 4sp car. didn't have roller clutch issues either as the Chrysler manual valve body was low band apply in first.
Click to expand...

AHH! thank you.... i have been hunting the problem in my car.. brand new converter, drags the motor way down and has almost no stall and the car doesn't want to move easily... dropping the trans when i get home to put in a new PTC.. seems not many people have had a sprague break so was hard to diag it..
 
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