Longer wheel studs?

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Oklacarcollecto said:
Pop one of the rear drums off and lay it in the back of the wheel the way it would mount regularly but now you can see from the back side with nothing in the way. This will either confirm or out rule what I am thinking.

If you do this it will show you why you have a problem.
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Again, the rears are not hitting anywhere accept on the face of the drum like they are supposed to.
 
TurboType1 said:
Again, the rears are not hitting anywhere accept on the face of the drum like they are supposed to.
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The factory wheels fit this car since 1970 and these won't so tell me how it isn't a wheel problem. Also explain why the front wheel will fit when the caliper and spacer is removed. That should tell you something because you have more threads sticking out.

I give:banghead::banghead::banghead:.... post the problem when you finally figure it out.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
The factory wheels fit this car since 1970 and these won't so tell me how it isn't a wheel problem. Also explain why the front wheel will fit when the caliper and spacer is removed. That should tell you something because you have more threads sticking out.

I give:banghead::banghead::banghead:.... post the problem when you finally figure it out.
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Maybe something got lost in description.
The rear wheels and tires fit on this car exactly as the factory wheels would EXCEPT these are a wider wheel/tire. Because of the way the factory welded the leafspring perches on the rear-end housing, one of the back wheels is too close to the leaf spring. This is the ONLY reason that I need a spacer on the rear.
As for the front. These wheels will bolt up exactly as the factory wheels would EXCEPT the backside of the wheel comes in contact with the brake caliper. These are also a wider wheel/tire . The reason these front wheels will fit with the spacer and caliper removed is that the caliper is no longer in the way for the wheel to hit.
As it sits right now, all 4 wheels are bolted on and nothing is rubbing anything, BUT, My wheel studs are too short.
I dont know how else to explain this. Tomorrow night I will post pics of one wheel bolted up with-out the spacer on it to see what the lugnut looks like. I will definitely post what ever I come up with....
Thanks....Pete
 
Has the car got a factory spare in the trunk to try on the front?

How did this car get to your shop with no wheels?

Now if I am getting this right, the rear wheels are bolted up to the car and the stud length is fine, correct? If so why did you post this?

TurboType1 said:
Getting back to the longer studs, these kinda look promising....would like to find out if anybody in the US might be selling these so I could find more info on them.

http://www.pentastarparts.com.au/sun..._detail&p=5068

As far as the rears go...These shouldn't be a problem to find,right?
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Are the studs that are in the Kelsey Hayes assembly ever right for the car? As I stated before there is a 1 inch fully threaded stud sticking out past the hub. Another member posted the correct stud diameters and length.

With one picture it is impossible to see what is going on but if the wheels are right and seated correctly then you must have the wrong studs to start with.
 
Oklacar,
1. I have no spare
2. It got to my shop with all 4 wheels bolted on nice and tight. Front brake calipers weren't on yet
3.The rear wheels are on, but one side has a spacer on it so the studs are short on that wheel.
4. I don't know the history on the front rotors so I'm not sure if those studs were ever replaced
The only thing I am certain about is to use these Wheels on this car I've gotta run spacers. In order for me to run spacers, I'm gonna need longer studs. I still haven't found those longer wheel studs, but the search isn't over yet.

Pete
 
Turbotype1,

I understand what you're describing perfectly. As for the wheels, they're probably only rubbing due to the aftermarket calipers you described. Factory KH calipers would have likely set up fine and not caused any contact with the wheel. Since you added spacers so as to allow the wheels to clear the calipers, that is why you don't have enough stud now protruding. It sounds like longer studs are your only option other than going back to factory brake calipers. I'm sure they're available somewhere.
 
TurboType1 said:
The only update I have is I still need to come up with some longer studs for the front of this car..... :banghead:

The rears were an easy one...

Pete
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I thought you were going to post some more pictures.

You can always order the ones from overseas and see if they will fit. That may be your only option.
 
got a chance to take some pics today
First pic is of front wheel without spacer
Second pic is of rear wheel with spacer
Third pic is of rear wheel without spacer
Fourth pic is rear wheel with spacer and new stud
fifth is Dorman 610-259 vs. original stud
last is caliper that is interfering with front wheel
 

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Also, I measured the amount of the front stud sticking out of the hub and it measures .913... A little shorter than the normal 1".
 
Rears look great. Surprised still no response on the racers forum? I posted a pick of your style rotor and i can't believe someone doesn't have a source for them.
 
Got it...ARP #100-7706
Knurl size is .003 oversize, but they pulled in just right
A little under 3" long and the poverty caps still fit.
 

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Glad that worked out for you Pete. So much hassle for a simple job:banghead:. At least you got to keep those custom made spacers, i'm sure they cost a bit of coin:D.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
(A) Knurl Diameter .568,
Thread Size 1/2-20,
(L1) Under Head Length 2.970,
(L2) Knurl Length .710,
(L3) Nose Length .465,
ARP Wheel Studs 100-7706

7/16-20 x 1-31/32"
• Knurl Diameter: .565"
• Shoulder Length: 1-1/16"

These won't be seated in the hub as deep as they are supposed to be.
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So whats shoulder length got to do with knurl length? So the ARP part has knurls that go from under the head and are a tickle under 3/4 long, Yet the stock one has about 1/4' of knurl. And your gonna say that these won't be seated into the hub as deep. Considering they go clear through the hub, how much deeper can they go? On your example of the stock stud , please take a close look at the shoulder area between the knurl and when the threads actually start.You do realize that this section of the shoulder doesn't even come into contact the hub,right? When you installed these ARP studs into your hubs , you found that it wouldn't work? I can assure you that there is WAY more knurl to hub contact area with the ARP stud than the factory one.
If you don't like em' don't use em'. I just thought that it would be a good thing to actually post a part# for a longer front stud that fits the Kelsey Hayes front rotor and works.

I should contact my customer and tell him that although your on your 3rd tank of gas and have been kicking the crap out of your new toy daily, that your front studs aren't seated deep enough.... :argue:

Thanks for your post...very helpful
 
TurboType1 said:
So whats shoulder length got to do with knurl length? So the ARP part has knurls that go from under the head and are a tickle under 3/4 long, Yet the stock one has about 1/4' of knurl. And your gonna say that these won't be seated into the hub as deep. Considering they go clear through the hub, how much deeper can they go? On your example of the stock stud , please take a close look at the shoulder area between the knurl and when the threads actually start.You do realize that this section of the shoulder doesn't even come into contact the hub,right? When you installed these ARP studs into your hubs , you found that it wouldn't work? I can assure you that there is WAY more knurl to hub contact area with the ARP stud than the factory one.
If you don't like em' don't use em'. I just thought that it would be a good thing to actually post a part# for a longer front stud that fits the Kelsey Hayes front rotor and works.

I should contact my customer and tell him that although your on your 3rd tank of gas and have been kicking the crap out of your new toy daily, that your front studs aren't seated deep enough.... :argue:

Thanks for your post...very helpful
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Truth hurts so what else can I say. The shoulder is designed to go all the way through the hub and I know that the studs you used do not. As time passes it is real likely that the hubs will wallow out. Bolts would do the same thing you did and they wouldn't be correct either. Sooner or later this car will either have a flat or need tires and maybe a good mechanic will fix the issues right if it doesn't come loose and hurt or kill someone before that time. I just hope your shop has good insurance if something happens with this cobbled up job.
 
Is this failure that you speak of documented somewhere or is this just hearsay that you think is gonna happen? If you've got actual proof of what your saying, well then I'm all ears. But if this failure you speak of is just YOUR opinion , well than I'm just gonna file it as that...your opinion. It's OK we are all entitled to have an opinion..
Thank you for your concern about my insurance though... I'm very well covered with my policy... Have a nice day!!
 
TurboType1 said:
Is this failure that you speak of documented somewhere or is this just hearsay that you think is gonna happen? If you've got actual proof of what your saying, well then I'm all ears. But if this failure you speak of is just YOUR opinion , well than I'm just gonna file it as that...your opinion. It's OK we are all entitled to have an opinion..
Thank you for your concern about my insurance though... I'm very well covered with my policy... Have a nice day!!
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The proof is right in the numbers I posted. You are a person that can't see the forest because there are too many trees are in the way. I know these Kelsey Hayes brakes very well. You insisted that the front wheel wasn't hitting the caliper but in the end that is exactly what you posted that was happening. You obviously didn't know the correct thing to do or even what you were looking at. Rick posted what might be the right studs but I bet you never bothered to contact them for measurements to see if those were the correct answer to what you needed. The car now has 7/16" studs on the back and 1/2" studs on the front... That is the way a proffessional shop does things, NOT. Does he have to carry two lug wrenches now because of 2 lugnut sizes? With the nearly 1000 hits this thread has had I am sure your work has been noted by other members in your area. Who knows that car owner may end up on FABO someday and might find this very thread. The internet has made the world a much smaller place.
 
Wow.. holy **** man I didn't mean to get your panties all up in a bunch. Quite frankly, your proof don't meen squat. Your the dim bulb who couldn't quite get a grasp on the concept that the wheels WERE hitting the calipers WITHOUT Spacers. So let me make this as clear and precise as possible. Did you even read this whole thread?
The front wheels on this 1970 Dodge Dart with Kelsey Hayes disc brake were hitting the calipers. Do you understand this or am I going to fast? I then had custom 1/4" spacers made that would enable me to space out the wheels 1/4" so that I could run these wheels without them hitting the calipers. Everything OK so far? You get it or should I maybe come up with some smaller words for you ? 7/16 on back and 1/2 the front... Tell me does the wheel know or even give a **** what size the stud is? Oh there I go again.. asking a question to you, not sure if you can grasp that one.... Might have been a little hard for you to understand.
In all your infinite wisdom you didn't know you can actually purchase a 1/2 lugnut with the same 3/4 inch wrench size? Damm, I did it again, asked a question with big words in it,not sure if you will grasp that one either.
Oh and for the record, the owner of this car is already a member of this forum...in fact he's the one who turned me on to this place,which up until today has been full of positive and constructive information that helped me out tremendously in the restoration of this car.
With nearly 1000 hits and your the only Tool in the whole thread. At least every one else that posted was helpful or at least gave it a shot...
So your the kinda my way or no way guy huh? I see. Well sorry you don't like these studs ...don't buy them or use them then that's easy enough.
But ya might wanna hike that skirt of yours down alittle .... Your manjina is hanging out
 
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