looks like im pulling the motor apart already

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My money is on not-a-damn-thing-wrong. Oil in the valve covers? Not enough drive time.

You gotta diagnose it first, especially if it's your daily driver!
 
He said the seal rings around some of the cylinders were out of round. and not oil on valve covers it was milky on valve covers.
 
Fst73_360 said:
He said the seal rings around some of the cylinders were out of round. and not oil on valve covers it was milky on valve covers.
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As in a pushed head gasket. The small Mopar will smoke like a bugger when this happens because it will force blowby into the lifter valley on the compression stroke and on the induction stroke will pull oil and blowby in through the compromised gasket and smoke out of the exhaust as well. Hope this helps J.Rob
 
Well I wanted to replace the head gaskets anyway because I had a bad feeling about the 8553pt gaskets from the beginning this being my first actual build from scratch I. All it a lesson learned . Also those gaskets were pretty thick want a little thinner one to raise compression. Wat do you guys rec I know alot of guys run sce copper gaskets or 1008 gaskets wats best for my set up
 
I have the Mr. gasket ones or use the 1008, but the thing with the 1008 is they are LA style gaskets and you have Magnum heads on a LA block, and I know the Mr.Gasket ones will work. But the 1008 should work also, not sure. Ask Brian since you got the heads from him.
 
The 8553 is not really all that thick I believe its a .039 compressed thickness. Either way I have learned through experience that for the money the Victor Nitro seal #5961 is the best gasket going. The one I just measured is .042" after running. J.Rob
 
Fst73_360 said:
I have the Mr. gasket ones or use the 1008, but the thing with the 1008 is they are LA style gaskets and you have Magnum heads on a LA block, and I know the Mr.Gasket ones will work. But the 1008 should work also, not sure. Ask Brian since you got the heads from him.
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I don't have the magnum style heads like yours
 
dustya_383 said:
I don't have the magnum style heads like yours
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...:bounce:...You actually do..check them again...RHS sells 2 types of mopar heads...Both have magnum style chambers and everything on the bottom of the heads are exact BUT the only thing different are the rockers styles to please people. Yours are La rockers mine are Magnum rockers, but both are Magnum style heads.
 
I blew a head gasket once and white smoke poured out all the way home \\ \\


Better check the intake gasket also.

Not sure about not enough drive time, my 340 was clean running since day one. Double checked the intake sealed good. You should place the intake on the gaskets and very lightly tighten a few bolts and check with a feeler gauge-say .010 that the intake seals on the front ports top to bottom, if not the head either needs to be lower or raised .020 or so. Or a thicker-thiner intake gasket. or milling of the head or intake
 
So guys I got the other head pulled off today after work and of course head gasket was blown #3 and #5 were toast w/. 6&8 on their way hence the egg shape of the bores on gasket anyways looking for a solution, wats the best gasket to go with? Lookin for a bit thinner gasket I'm about.020 in the hole with62 cc on the head and -17.5 reverse dome piston. Wanna up the compression a bit what do u guys suggest? Also since I didnt do it the first time I wanna degree the cam as well
 
Do you have pics of those gaskets? I'm curious about them...
When you put it back, make sure you run a tap down all the head bolt holes and blow them clean with brake clean or shop air. Make sure the bolt's threads are clean too. You may want to also verify that the head bolts are not bottoming out in the holes and giving a false torque reading.
 
Check your vacuum modulator on back of trans it will smoke white the diaphragm will leak and suck tranny fluid
 
I think there's a GM undercover operative at work on the site.

So, do we lynch the guy, make him do pushups, or what?
 
dustya_383 said:
So guys I got the other head pulled off today after work and of course head gasket was blown #3 and #5 were toast w/. 6&8 on their way hence the egg shape of the bores on gasket anyways looking for a solution, wats the best gasket to go with? Lookin for a bit thinner gasket I'm about.020 in the hole with62 cc on the head and -17.5 reverse dome piston. Wanna up the compression a bit what do u guys suggest? Also since I didnt do it the first time I wanna degree the cam as well
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Why up the compression? What caused the gasket to let go? Was the engine pinging under load?
If your .020 in the hole, you had no real quench so this will lead to preignition due to trapped air/fuel in the chamber where it should be quenched against the piston.

So you'll need .017 cometic gaskets to get the quench right, and make sure you have both heads resurfaced and very fine finish. Then copper coat the gaskets when you get them. Do this, and it should be good to go.
Brian
 
ou812 said:
Why up the compression? What caused the gasket to let go? Was the engine pinging under load?
If your .020 in the hole, you had no real quench so this will lead to preignition due to trapped air/fuel in the chamber where it should be quenched against the piston.

So you'll need .017 cometic gaskets to get the quench right, and make sure you have both heads resurfaced and very fine finish. Then copper coat the gaskets when you get them. Do this, and it should be good to go.
Brian
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He's running the 306 s magnum camshaft. I dont know the compression he was running but with the .053 head gaskets he had, he said it was at around 9 because with cranking compression at around 130-140 that cam at 260@50 was eating a lot of his compression. If he goes down to a .038 head gasket aka the Mr. Gasket head gaskets I was going to give him brand new, He would jump to 10.5 and still have low enough DCR around 7.8 and run what ever octane he wants. I had this same cam with 10.7 compression. I believe he had the motor zero decked, but im not totally sure. I seen the pictures of the gaskets and they were ripped. Not good at all.

I told him I dont think he torqued the heads down correctly as in how ARP wants it done with their torque sequence and amount and increments of torque.

17.5 piston in the hole at .020 is around 9.7 compression and is WAY to low for that cam. FYI

I thought he was decking the block when he first did this all.
 
good head gaskets are the best thing goin' :D

p.s. with some head gaskets, make sure to retorque the head bolts to spec after a couple hours of runtime also. i know it's a p.i.t.a. to take the valve covers off again but... it's well worth the time in the long run. some other types of head gaskets such as perma-torque do not get retorqued. so you have to read up on the manufacturers site or instructions that come with, depending on the brand of head gaskets you use
 
You have to drop the headers to retorque the head bolts on a small block mopar not just take off valve covers. I never retorqued mine and its fine.

I would do like Moper suggested and make sure those bolt holes are clean and bolts are not bottoming out.
 
ou812 said:
Why up the compression? What caused the gasket to let go? Was the engine pinging under load?
If your .020 in the hole, you had no real quench so this will lead to preignition due to trapped air/fuel in the chamber where it should be quenched against the piston.

So you'll need .017 cometic gaskets to get the quench right, and make sure you have both heads resurfaced and very fine finish. Then copper coat the gaskets when you get them. Do this, and it should be good to go.
Brian
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^^^now follow this mans advice. you should be fine after, no more worries. :)
 
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