looks like im pulling the motor apart already

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dustya_383 said:
Ok the cam spec for lash is .022 is it ok to close lash to.018?? I'll get the 1008 gaskets and and those plugs get timing set right then hopefully this will solve my problem
Thanks guys
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Yes it's OK...or I wouldn't have suggested it :)
P.S. I don't have the thorley headers anymore.
 
So guys these last 3 weeks have been hell I've been working on getting engine back together and running but I swear I have no luck within this money Pitt aka my engine. I had heads resurfaced put on 1008 fel pro gaskets. Ran tap through all bolt holes got new intake gaskets, Torqued everything down to spec and in correct sequence ,got the 4 speed all hooked up put in new oil new coolant new fuel new plugs fire it up to get my timing together. , not happening car won't stay On long enough , anyways I check my oil today after a couple of days after getting motor partly running ,AND I HAVE THE SAME EXACT PROBLEM I DID IN THE BEGINNING OF THIS THREAD, no smoke from tail pipes yet but oil is milky And contaminated with coolant.everything on this motor was brand new except intake carb and block. What is going on here ?? I'm losin g my mind my patience and my motivation to get the car running as its costing me more and more money. Where do I start I HAVE NOT TORN MOTOR APART YET like I did the first time should I do a leak down test first??what should I look for I have a lot of money in this motor and don't want to give up on it but I am on this brink of calling it quits help me out fellas thanks on advance

Stephon
 
1wild&crazyguy said:
right head bolts?

pressure test system, check front cover if using an old one,,,seen corrosion cause holes behind water pump.
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Yep, timing cover is another point of entry. Had one when you filled the radiator, you could hear it leaking into the pan. It was that bad.

Pull the water pump and look at the holes going back into the block.
 
crackedback said:
Yep, timing cover is another point of entry. Had one when you filled the radiator, you could hear it leaking into the pan. It was that bad.

Pull the water pump and look at the holes going back into the block.
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He had stated he had overheating issues and we fixed his timing issue, but then the idle would vary from 900-1500. So I thought it was a vacuum leak. So he went and got another gauge, a mechanical one. I had told him that it was possible that there was air in the system (I was right) because when he tried to burp it, it was overflowing, which meant air was some how getting in the system. I suggested that its possible head gasket, cracked head, intake leak or front cover leak. We all know I had this same issue with water in the engine. But I didnt have the over heating and water boiling over which led me to believe his had to deal with an area where air can be forced in. What do you guys think? p.s. keep in mind he had these issues as soon as he started the engine up so it did not occur while driving it.
 
I think I'll start with a pressure test than ill pull water pump if anything I'm getting a 340 block this weekend for dirt cheap if my 360 block is no good I'm stroking the 340 I hope it's ok tho I like to run this motor as it was very very torquey
 
ou812 said:
Personally I think it was detonating. Now if you go with the 1008 felpro gasket, you'll have proper quench and that should take care of that. Leave the advance curve in the dist., set total timing at 33°, use the bcp6es plug (stock #4930), and set lash hot at .018 and see what she does.
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Hey Brian,

Don't you set the lash cold so it goes to almost zero when hot? Aluminum heads.
 
dustya_383 said:
I think I'll start with a pressure test than ill pull water pump if anything I'm getting a 340 block this weekend for dirt cheap if my 360 block is no good I'm stroking the 340 I hope it's ok tho I like to run this motor as it was very very torquey
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Your going to start a new engine without knowing what was wrong with the last build ? What if the intake is crack and you re-use it ?

This is why you mag the block -heads before putting money in to it. But a crack block would not cause poor running, would it..maybe a crack head would ?

Maybe you should just let a engine shop build your engine - least the short block and you do the rest

I haven't read back this thread but sounds like you spent way too much time and money already, the last thing I would do if I was you is start building a new engine
 
dodge freak said:
Your going to start a new engine without knowing what was wrong with the last build ? What if the intake is crack and you re-use it ?

This is why you mag the block -heads before putting money in to it. But a crack block would not cause poor running, would it..maybe a crack head would ?

Maybe you should just let a engine shop build your engine - least the short block and you do the rest

I haven't read back this thread but sounds like you spent way too much time and money already, the last thing I would do if I was you is start building a new engine
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The sop did build his short block. All he put on was his heads and intake.
 
dodge freak said:
Your going to start a new engine without knowing what was wrong with the last build ? What if the intake is crack and you re-use it ?

This is why you mag the block -heads before putting money in to it. But a crack block would not cause poor running, would it..maybe a crack head would ?

Maybe you should just let a engine shop build your engine - least the short block and you do the rest

I haven't read back this thread but sounds like you spent way too much time and money already, the last thing I would do if I was you is start building a new engine
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The shop did build his short block. All he put on was his heads and intake and front cover and water pump
 
How about draining all the oil out, leave the drain plug out, pressure test cooling system, and turn engine by hand it need be. See if any coolant comes out oil drain plug. With spark plugs out and coolant system pressurized does coolant come out? Some times the leak will only occur when the engine is hot. I knew a guy whose car consumed coolant and it was a pin hole in the cylinder that would open up when engine got hot. Sleeved the cylinder problem solved.
 
dodge freak said:
Your going to start a new engine without knowing what was wrong with the last build ? What if the intake is crack and you re-use it ?

This is why you mag the block -heads before putting money in to it. But a crack block would not cause poor running, would it..maybe a crack head would ?

Maybe you should just let a engine shop build your engine - least the short block and you do the rest

I haven't read back this thread but sounds like you spent way too much time and money already, the last thing I would do if I was you is start building a new engine
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My motor was built by a shop and short block was assembled by them like mike said I did the top end.
Well the heads were brand new not sure if I should Mag new heads for safety percaution but I may next time. As for block it wasn't maged but maybe that was a rookie move not having them do. It as I was low on cash wanted it done ASAP . I was planning on building the 340 anyways for my other duster but if my current block is trash then ill use it for the current duster and go different route with my other. Hopefully it's just the intake And not the heads or block. How can I check to make sure my bolts are not bottoming out ?? Why would they the block Is a 91 .is there Difference from older blocks?deck height?? I hope to sort this out with as little money spent as possible cause looks like round 3 for me and this motor
 
340Duster247 said:
Any updates?
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Yes been a while since I e been on any ways. So I recently pulled my intake re sealed it swaped radiators and tried to fire her up. Had issues but finally got her fired but now here is the messy part.

I STILL can't get the motor to idle .Cannot get initial timing below 25* and my oil is starting to get milky again. It's no longer over heating. But I've been wondering about this, the car has been stored outside in my driveway for the last couple months and it has been very very cold high 30s to low 40s at nights through the mornings. I mean the cars and roof tops are iced over . Now is it possible to build up that much condensation from sitting and not being ran for a long enough time.???

I'm not sure if I should pull motor have every gasket and bearing replaced and have block checked for any flaws.. Or if I should flush some oil thru the motor to see if it will take care of most of the condensation ??
I ask because I plan on pulling engine once again to get this figured out .?? What's your guys opinion?
 
With all the aluminum yes, a lot of condensation can form and build up. But as for turning the oil cloudy... I don't knwo about that. If you can get it to operating temperature and run it the water "should" boil out of the oil and that's that. Do you have a cooling system pressure tester? If you run it, get it hot, then pump it up to 16psi will it hold it?
 
Yea I have a pressure tester also have the tool to bleed the cooling system to make sure all air gets out maybe I should do a block test ??? If its the head gaskets I have a real problem because I've replaced em 2 times already and am having the same issue . I just want to pull engine replace all gaskets and bearings and have motor triple checked along with heads for cracks or anything and replace my intake. Anyone know how to measure for the correct intake gasket thickness???
 
Take valve cover off and see if anything is on underside..If not let car run for awhile and see if it burns the water out. If not you gotta pull it anyways...You should look at a different carb also. And fix that bolt that is holding the carb down, see if that helps. Your best bet since the car wont't run with less than 25 initial is to lock it out and set it at 34 initial total that way its always 34 and it won't be how it is now where you have 25 initial and 18 mechanical
 
Sounds like its a timing and carb issue. Are you letting it just idle for a while? the water is probably condensation IF you are not loosing any coolant.
 
lucky13 said:
Sounds like its a timing and carb issue. Are you letting it just idle for a while? the water is probably condensation IF you are not loosing any coolant.
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He didn't mention that it rained HEAVILY in his city and that he has a scoop that water got into the engine bay and he left one of the valve cover holes open which could be an entry point for the water that flash rusted some of the parts in the engine bay. :wack:
 
Engine runs a lot better now. He had issues with timing and valves not being adjusted. No water in oil I believe he said and just need another adjustment to carb and he is all set to go!
 
Hey guys here's a little video of me driving the duster around my neighborhood sorry for the crappy video quality. Has a bit of stutter when in 1st gear carb needs some adjustment but runs pretty good. Has an oil leak but pretty excites to have her running again.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SubaUz0qWwU"]410 stroker Mopar - YouTube[/ame]
 
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