Lower control arm bushing slides onto pin

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Mineallmine

Mineallmine

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I am rebuilding my suspension on my 63 dart and ran into a possible issue. I have the lower control arms apart and have all new Moog bushings to install. The one went in as expected onto the pin. I had to press it on. The other I can slide into the pin. It's tight but I don't need to press it on. Is this ok or do I have an issue with my bushing/pin?

I know the bushing doesn't hold it together, just know I read to press the bushing onto the pin before pressing into the LCA.

Thanks
 
Is it ok to run like that? It's not loose in the sleeve, just not press fit. I don't see how it would be an issue as the strut rod holds the LCA forward. If it were sloppy I see the issue. Also aren't poly bushings not press fit into the pins either?
 
It will be a problem.... The pin & bushing sleeve will become wearing parts.... They aren't designed to wear... The sleeve should be a press fit & the rubber should twist... Moog has had a problem with those for at least five years... They've be made aware of it but the problem continues... I use A/C Delco bushings these days & they have been fine...
 
1WildRT said:
It will be a problem.... The pin & bushing sleeve will become wearing parts.... They aren't designed to wear... The sleeve should be a press fit & the rubber should twist... Moog has had a problem with those for at least five years... They've be made aware of it but the problem continues... I use A/C Delco bushings these days & they have been fine...
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I thought about that after l posted this question. Just wanted a second person to confirm what I was thinking. I just placed an order for the ac Delco part

At first I thought it would be fine, but a bushing that allows some motion has a much larger center sleeve as well. I never knew it was an issue with Moog bushings though. I saw that after I went to order another

Thanks for all the input
 
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Waiting on new bushing, I decided to finish the drivers side and wanted to confirm my research was correct. I reassembled everything and left the upper and lower control arm bolts a little loose. I then lifted the car by the lower control arm to load up the suspension until it was just off the jack stand and tightened the lower nut and set the front upper out as far as I could and rear in as much as I could and tightened them.

I assume this is to have the bushing rubber basically at rest when the car is sitting on the suspension and will deflect one way or another when the suspension moves to keep from overloading the rubber in the bushing?

I have an appointment to get it aligned as soon as I can get it back together, just wanted to get it close. I will be trailering it anyway as I have to get it saftied so I can get plates.

If I've missed something I'd appreciate getting the heads up. Thanks in advance and thanks for all the good advice so far.
 
1WildRT said:
It will be a problem.... The pin & bushing sleeve will become wearing parts.... They aren't designed to wear... The sleeve should be a press fit & the rubber should twist... Moog has had a problem with those for at least five years... They've be made aware of it but the problem continues... I use A/C Delco bushings these days & they have been fine...
Click to expand...
I have an AC Delco bushing that has the same problem. Pro Forged is the only manufacturer that I have not heard of this problem with, but that doesn't mean they haven't had a problem. NEVER use a bushing that the pin easily slips into.
 
Jim Lusk said:
I have an AC Delco bushing that has the same problem. Pro Forged is the only manufacturer that I have not heard of this problem with, but that doesn't mean they haven't had a problem. NEVER use a bushing that the pin easily slips into.
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That's not good to hear. I ordered the AC Delco and another Moog as it would come sooner. It came today and has the same issue. Hopefully the AC is ok. I might pick one up from Napa tomorrow to see if I get lucky. Gotta get this done.
 
Yeah, the lack of QC is BS.... Just as we must be our own defenders these days we must also do our own Quality Control for our auto parts....
 
Mineallmine said:
Waiting on new bushing, I decided to finish the drivers side and wanted to confirm my research was correct. I reassembled everything and left the upper and lower control arm bolts a little loose. I then lifted the car by the lower control arm to load up the suspension until it was just off the jack stand and tightened the lower nut and set the front upper out as far as I could and rear in as much as I could and tightened them.

I assume this is to have the bushing rubber basically at rest when the car is sitting on the suspension and will deflect one way or another when the suspension moves to keep from overloading the rubber in the bushing?

I have an appointment to get it aligned as soon as I can get it back together, just wanted to get it close. I will be trailering it anyway as I have to get it saftied so I can get plates.

If I've missed something I'd appreciate getting the heads up. Thanks in advance and thanks for all the good advice so far.
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I think that sounds fine. Doing it in that way makes it so much easier to get to everything. As long as there is no weight on the suspension, I think you're fine. I've done it that way a lot and never had an issue.
 
A member put this together a couple years ago, out of 11 OE style rubber LCA bushings only 5 were good enough to install. Proforged and Spicer were the only two that had a pair where both worked.

IMG_4640.jpeg


LCA pin loose in bushing
 
A little historical info on the bushings.
.800-.802 id. is from Chrysler #1858024 bushing. Date on package is 1989. Moog bushing #K791 from 2008 has the same dimension. Molded into both bushings are Harris and 61195.
 
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Well, that isn't encouraging news on the AC Delco. Hopefully I get a good one. I have tried 3 Moog thus far and one was good. I also decided to order a NAPA bushing and will pick it up today. Not sure if Moog makes their parts or not. Hopefully one of the 2 will work so I can get this thing back together.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Thanks for that. That's ridiculous.
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Right? Like a 50% rate there. I mean I understand a little variation, that’s just production. But to be so far out of spec that you miss the fit spec entirely is pretty bad.

@RealWing put that graphic together, I just bookmarked it.
 
There are some new old stock bushings from the 20th century on ebay. Search the following:
Sealed Power 80712193
TRW 12193 1962-1976
Do a internet search using the original Chrysler part number 1858024. Moparpartsgiant and Roseville Moparts show to have them in stock. Probably should call the last 2 sources before ordering to see if they actually have them.
 
townsend said:
There are some new old stock bushings from the 20th century on ebay. Search the following:
Sealed Power 80712193
TRW 12193 1962-1976
Do a internet search using the original Chrysler part number 1858024. Moparpartsgiant and Roseville Moparts show to have them in stock. Probably should call the last 2 sources before ordering to see if they actually have them.
Click to expand...

Yeah but then you’re starting with 20 years of oxidation on your “new” bushings.

I’ve had good luck with everything that Proforged is making, they seem to be doing it right. Or at least better than most of the other companies.
 
So, I picked up the NAPA bushing and guess what... Yup, no good. I brought it back and add they are a major warehouse location they had 7 more out back. He brought them all out and were starting checking. The first 2 we grabbed were good. Got lucky to get a bad one right off

I grabbed one and installed it. The one thing I did notice was it pressed on the pin nice and it did press into the control arm ok but the top of the bushing was very slightly bell shaped, not the sharp bend like usual. Only thing this did was bulge the rubber a little when I fully seated the bushing as it was compressor the rubber a bit. No big deal as the pin didn't move and it pivots as it should.

Finally moving forward again. Still not overly impressed with the bushing quality overall but it fits
 
Let me add to this topic if i may.
Last night a friend that i know, brought over a beautiful pair of lower control arms that he wanted me to finish the rebuilding on.
The LCA's were powder coated, and he purchased those one hundred pair of new shafts, to go into the LCA's.
One shaft he already put into a bushing, and tried to install that into the LCA's itself, only going in about a quarter inch, before stopping.
So getting that side bushing, shaft, was quite easy under my 12 ton hydraulic press.
Now the other side was nothing but a pain the ***, as he brought over, a MOOG bushing.
That bushing turned out to be a piece of S*#T.
The rubber in that bushing was just spreading out all over the place when trying to press the shaft into the bushing, and then into the LCA itself.
I had to call it quits with that bushing, and call it a no go.
Come to find out, he brought over a third bushing that i didn't realize that he had in his vehicle that he drove over.
That bushing turned out to be another MOOG bushing, but it was an bushing that was bought years ago.
I had no other choice but to try and install that bushing.
That old stock bushing went in well, with no issues.
The moral of this story is modern, MOOG bushings are still a piece of S#*T, and should be avoided, at all costs.
My .02 cents worth on this subject.
Jim V.
hemi71x

EDIT:
If anyone local to me want's me to do any work on LCA's and has their own bushings, and they are MOOG's, I'm just going to refuse to do the work.
Not worth the effort.
They are totally junk.
 
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Not at $33.00 dollars, for an Elko bushing.
Way over priced.

Don't know Aussie money, what that would be in American money?
 
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About $20 US...
+ shipping
tiny market in Aus supply and demand means higher prices but its a market that will buy local production over US stuff due to the import cost so sthe supplier chooses a price point..

Knowing about Mackay is more useful if you are a buiness and can import in bulk direct from them, a supplier who had/has a good reputation

Austrlian stuff that is still made in australia. is always expenive but the materials used and the quality is usually good.

they probably still have the origional enginnering diagram from Chrylser Australia in 1962 in their archive....

just a post to illustrate that there are alternatives... if you are spending neither AUD nor USD
 
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