I'd like to upgrade to the MAD electrical circuitry to bypass my troublesome bulkhead connection however, I'd like to wire it so that I have a connector on one side, either inside or outside the firewall, drill a hole and install a sealed grommet, rather than drilling through the bulkhead connector. Reason being, to easily separate and remove the red or black wires if the need arises in the future. I'm thinking of adding a 3 pole covered terminal block on the inner fender instead of just splicing the red and black wires together and then running the 16ga fusible link from there to the starter relay. Also, maybe, adding an insulated splice connector, either butt or male/female spade where the red and black are spliced together at the ammeter connection. This would allow me to prefab the harness sections and just plug it all in without having a single harness and drilling out the bulkhead connector. I'll still modify the alternator connection as per the writeup to reduce the load on that red/black wiring. Pros and cons? Anybody else done something similar? All advice or criticism is appreciated!
MAD electrical upgrade modification?
- Thread starter sargentrs
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BillGrissom
Well-Known Member
Lookup "fleet bypass", which is what you are doing. Chrysler did that on taxis and police cars. In my 1964, I changed to a 1965 bulkhead because it has thick buss-bars for those wires. Won't work in 1966+ cars due to the wiper adding a 3rd connector. A bullet connector might be better for high amps than a spade. Bolted connections are even better. My M-B cars have small covered screw blocks next to the battery. I put them in my Mopars underhood to branch the IGN circuit. They are 3 screws, but 2 are connected to the same copper block. Easy grab at PickNPull.
Spent some time with a friend of mine, older Mopar/Chevy gearhead, electrical engineer and HAM radio restorer and enthusiast, and he pointed me to these. http://www.powerwerx.com/anderson-powerpoles/powerpole-sets/pp75-red-black-75-amp.html I'll be using them on the firewall and also at the dash splice. Same kind of connectors used on our electrical forklift chargers. Got a couple of sets ordered along with the MAD electrical upgrade package. We'll see how it goes. Thanks for the info!
GMachineDartGT
Senior Member
Why not run a 10ga wire from the alternator to the starter relay? That will reduce the amperage through the bulkhead without any mods. I do this on every car I build.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
While the Anderson Powerpoles are good for connections that need to be disconnected from time to time (and hams love them for reliable equipment connections) , I don't favor them for long term connections that may be subject to constant vibration (like a car); the contact is flat surface to flat surface with nothing to positively hold the surfaces together and prevent them rubbing together constantly except for internal tension of the blades. (Your forklifts don't move while charging so they are great for that.) IMO, for automotive use, you need to a fixed mechanical connection of the 2 parts to avoid contact surface wear, like you have with the wrap-around of a female spade connector, or a bolted connection on a solid lug like the '65 bulkhead connectors described by Bill above.
I'll be doing that as part of the MAD electrical upgrade. Thanks!
moparlover
Well-Known Member
that is a good idea, BUT make sure it has a fusible link
better safer than sorrier
better safer than sorrier
Good points! Thanks for the caution. I actually looked for a covered junction block first. Hoped to find one similar to the starter relay connection but with a plastic cover over it to keep it neat and clean, but I couldn't find a stud type like I was looking for. Got a link to something suitable with or without a cover? Thanks!
Thanks for the reminder! That's also into the MAD package. ;)
moparlover
Well-Known Member
that mad electrical guy sells terminal blocks or whatever they are called. just call him. but BE ADVISED when you do finally get him on the phone be ready to talk for an HOUR he will yack and yack and yack lol. he will teach you a lot but set some time aside...
Those connectors are essentially the same type deal (made in pairs) used on power disability chairs and scooters. They work well. Only problem is, they are not weather or "environment" resistant, IE moisture, grease, oil, etc.
On the other hand, the original "fleet wiring" connectors were not weatherproof, either
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Like this maybe; needs a panel punch and panel spacer for this one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bulkhead-Power-Stud-Power-Bushing-/121148057972
Google 'bulkhead stud connector'
That's a good idea! I was thinking more along these lines but hoping to find one with a snap on cover and where the two terminals were on the same circuit. I could run the black and red wires to one lug and have the fusible link going from the other lug to the starter relay.
You might search for "feed through"
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...feed_throughterminalblocks/series_c7021_.html
https://www.google.com/search?num=2...ed=0CAkQ_AUoAg&q="feed through" stud terminal
One of these could be configured to go through the bulkhead. You of course need appropriate measures to prevent shorts, and get a "substantial" one for physical durability as well as electrical capacity.
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...feed_throughterminalblocks/series_c7021_.html
https://www.google.com/search?num=2...ed=0CAkQ_AUoAg&q="feed through" stud terminal
One of these could be configured to go through the bulkhead. You of course need appropriate measures to prevent shorts, and get a "substantial" one for physical durability as well as electrical capacity.
I don't know what is wrong with the original bulkhead connector.
I don't know why poking continuous wire straight through it like Madelectrical suggests doesn't suit you.
I don't know why you feel a cover of some sort is needed.
I dont need to understand you thinking or anyone elses'.
Watch a good bit of this youtube video...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhjEVBMuxJw&feature=youtu.be"]Ford Freestar Wet PCM - YouTube[/ame]
What's my point ?
Even with the modern connectors under a massive cover, what happened ?
These sort of issues arise in every vehicle no matter what brand or era.
Simply fixing whats broke is often best. To reinvent the wheel might do more harm than good in the long run. After you spend days choosing the optimal connectors, wire, etc.. you can put as much time in choosing its location. Have fun
I don't know why poking continuous wire straight through it like Madelectrical suggests doesn't suit you.
I don't know why you feel a cover of some sort is needed.
I dont need to understand you thinking or anyone elses'.
Watch a good bit of this youtube video...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lhjEVBMuxJw&feature=youtu.be"]Ford Freestar Wet PCM - YouTube[/ame]
What's my point ?
Even with the modern connectors under a massive cover, what happened ?
These sort of issues arise in every vehicle no matter what brand or era.
Simply fixing whats broke is often best. To reinvent the wheel might do more harm than good in the long run. After you spend days choosing the optimal connectors, wire, etc.. you can put as much time in choosing its location. Have fun
Yeah, it's a personality issue I have. LOL. Drives my wife nuts. Complicating the simple. Part of my nature. Mostly, my bulkhead connector is fried and broken in that particular terminal where the ammeter leads goes through. I'm not fond of the whole set up but I really only have one bad terminal. I'm a big guy so crawling around under the dashboard is difficult, frustrating and downright uncomfortable. I like to lay everything out on my workbench, prepare all leads, terminals and connections. Then just drill a hole, thread 'em through and plug 'em in. This is my daily driver and my only car. I can't have her down for more than a few hours on a weekend. To each his own.
Thanks! Your google search led to another and another. I don't have an issue with drilling a hole in the firewall and running the leads through a sealed grommet, maybe 1/2". This looks promising. Run the black and red leads from the ammeter bypass to the two terminals and the fusible link from the 3rd terminal to the starter relay. If I need to pull the leads back through the firewall, just disconnect them and pull them back through. If the fusible link fries, disconnect and replace it. And a cover over it keeps me from grounded out against a hot terminal when I drop a wrench....and I'm going to drop a wrench...guaranteed.
momoparman
MOISMYHOME
Whoa that looks like some beefy wire and terminals, what are you using for an alternator? 
funwithfuel
Well-Known Member
Lifted this pic from interstate batteries catalog. I think this is what you want. Isolated power pass through bulkhead with bolted joint on either end. Stands up to vibration as well . We use them in our construction equipment. Good luck.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
He wants to use the terminal block as a tow point also....LOL! Sounds like the OP is zero'ing in on what he wants. All very interesting.Whoa that looks like some beefy wire and terminals, what are you using for an alternator?
A point of failure common to all circuits and placed under the hood is what the factory provided. Beef all that up and failure point becomes multiple weaker points inside.
Not sure what it came out of. Got it from my nephew. Some smarta$$ in a red and gold metal suit traded it to him for a ragged out '68 Road Runner he had. Mumbled something about Fury's an A-Hole as he drove off. Mounting it was a beotch but it puts out some major voltage.Whoa that looks like some beefy wire and terminals, what are you using for an alternator?
moparlover
Well-Known Member
if you need to upgrade the alt
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