Magnum A/c adapted to '72 A/C components - Have you done it?

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jos51700

jos51700

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I've got a '72 Swinger, factory A/C of which was long-ago ruined by a previous owner. It'll need a new evaporator, for sure, and ALL the under-hood A/C stuff is MIA.

I've got a bone-stock (except for the intake, which I'd like to go back to the beer-barrel with) Magnum 5.9 in it, and I've bypassed the nonexistent A/C compressor for now.

My thought: Run the stock Magnum compressor, a condenser from a Magnum-era truck (I'm betting a Dak would fit well), drier/receiver from same, etc. with the '72 evaporator.

Basically, the entire system from a Magnum-era truck, except the evaporator. Can it be done? I'm hoping that the truck and car stuff will be sized similarly. I'll run R-134, I ain't skeered.

Have you done it? If so, what did you use? I'd prefer to get all the A/C stuff from one donor so I'm not witch-hunting a specific part that I can't remember where it came from ten years from now (Pfft, as if. I'll be dead by then.)

The motor is a '99 Ram, so I'll start there, but I'd love any actual success or suggestions from anyone else.

Thanks
John
 
What are you doing for hoses?

There's a place near me that custom makes soft, pressure tight hoses.

I'm planning on taking them the hose from my 5th ave sanden and 1/2 the hose that was cut when my 383 was pulled, and saying-
"make a hose with this connetor on this end and that connector on that end"

I had a hydro clutch hose made for a motor cycle for about 1/2 the cost of an OEM hose.
 
Sweet. Anyone know how to calculate how much freon I need? I have gauges but little experience using them.
 
Any combination of compressor, vaporater, and condenser, will work to some degree.
The tables and formulas used in calculating how they perform are no less than mind boggling rocket science. Coil area, compressors CFM at RPM, fans CFM at RPM, gas temperatures, on and on. All that is after calculating the BTUs needed for a given area.
How do mfgrs get efficiency using the smaller reciprocating compumpers capabilities and R-134A ?.. Insulation plays a very important part.
If efficiency isn't an issue, ignore the science. Just some a/c is better than no a/c . If the cabin fan run on high at all times, and the compumper never cycles, even though gas temps/pressures stay within normal ranges, insulating the cabin may be the answer and defiantly the first thing to upgrade.
 
All of the above is good info. For the condenser, you just need to find one that will fit the area in front of the radiator and not interfere with the grill. The one from the truck may or may not work. A dryer is a dryer. Your biggest challenge here will be finding the evaporator core. I could not find a new one for my '72 and ended up using the old one. Also, the expansion valve. In your truck it may be under the dash close to the evap. On our cars it was plumbed under the hood.

Having just done my '72 Duster my swag is that you will be able to use your engine brackets and the compressor. If your system hasn't been cracked yet, maybe the dryer also. You'll most likely be hunting a condenser, making new hoses. As for the charge, a good a/c tech will be able to fill it with the needed amount It will be a little less than what the factory amount was.

Good luck on finding that evaporator if yours is missing or not usable.
This was a very nice upgrade I did to my Duster...
btw, I have a new aftermarket small condenser available... my a/c man told me that the new smaller units are much more efficient than the old ones.
C
 
The bigger the evaporator and condenser, the more efficient it will be, and the lower pressures the compressor will need to operate. R-12 is expensive and hard to find. R-134A is less efficient (higher pressures needed) and soon to be outlawed. I use Duracool, since not afraid of hydrocarbons like some. I even put it in my 2002 T&C this summer after the compressor failed. It works slightly better than R-12. I used mineral oil, but will probably use their PAO oil next time. The simplest control is just an expansion valve - either the original Mopar type or a newer one with "peanut" fittings (~$12). Later designs added pressure cut-off switches and evaporator temp sensors (for icing), but aren't essential. However, do insure your compressor or HP hose has a pressure relief valve.
 
I plan on this exact swap only into a 74'.

In my mind, lines seem to be the big deal. Everything else fits, search 'Denver, here we come!' page 2-3. Might help.
 
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