dart6
Well-Known Member
I want to change my 68 dart to p/s. Do i need to change the whole column
I'm doing the opposite I'm converting form power to manual. I have read about beating the shaft out to make it longer so I dont have to buy the adapter. I guess you can beat it in for the opposite? My question is where does the movement come from? Is there extra shaft in the column itself? I have never had one apart would it be easier to disassemble it and pull it out the the correct length? Or does it not work like that?Old school method is defeat the sheer pins in the collapsible column shaft to shorten it a little. Change the box coupling from the manual box shaft size/fit to the power box shaft size/fit.
The collapsible shaft is two pieces, solid shaft inside a tubular shaft. There are plastic pins though both that would shear in collision. So defeat the pins to shorten the shaft reduces how far it could collapse in a collision. Defeat the pins to extend the shaft reduces how far the two pieces are engaged. I've never been this route so I can't say how far the two pieces are originally engaged or if giving up a portion of that would be a problem.I'm doing the opposite I'm converting form power to manual. I have read about beating the shaft out to make it longer so I dont have to buy the adapter. I guess you can beat it in for the opposite? My question is where does the movement come from? Is there extra shaft in the column itself? I have never had one apart would it be easier to disassemble it and pull it out the the correct length? Or does it not work like that?
Is your car column shift? I might have a column shift manual steering column. Do you have a factory manual box? It's easy to do it with the stock parts if you have them.I'm doing the opposite I'm converting form power to manual. I have read about beating the shaft out to make it longer so I dont have to buy the adapter. I guess you can beat it in for the opposite? My question is where does the movement come from? Is there extra shaft in the column itself? I have never had one apart would it be easier to disassemble it and pull it out the the correct length? Or does it not work like that?
Yes it's a original column shift that I converted to a floor shift. I probably cant afford the whole column but PM a price.Is your car column shift? I might have a column shift manual steering column. Do you have a factory manual box? It's easy to do it with the stock parts if you have them.
Yep got that covered I bought the 73 and up pitman arm for the manual box!Is your manual box for the 73 and up A body? Otherwise the pitman arm will be different. Yours should have the stud facing down rather than up
So if you lengthened the shaft you have you would still need the correct box coupling and maybe a rebuild kit for it and maybe the aftermarkets formed wire cap retainer for it.I have saw thise adaptors most of the ones iv seen are north of 100 bucks I was hoping to get around buying one.
Thanks that's a good point . I hadn't thought of that. Do you know of anywhere on here that has broke down photos of the column?there is no linear movement in a universal joint. If you/re going with that, maybe just disassemble the column, drill out the sheer pins, separate the steering shaft, and add some grease so linear movement will be there. I honestly don't know how much our unibody flexes, how much linear movement happens.
Sorry.Talk about a hijack
Yes i would go with the borgenson box. Can you be a bit more specific about cutting the shaft. Would cutting it still still retain the collapsible featureNo, Borgeson box and add there u-joint kit, I just had to cut a 1" or so off of mine and drill it for the pins. easy peasy
I swapped my 69 Dart and it depends on how you do it and what you feel is right. The proper way is to swap the column with an PS one, or at least swap the steering shaft especially if you need to rebuild the column anyway. If you run headers, you may run into issues with the steering coupler hitting the tube. There are several remedies for this situation and I opted for a Flaming River B-Body drop in column. It fits the A-Body with out issues other than you need to shorten the D Shaft as the B-Body is longer. You can remove and cut it.
For PS pump run a Saginaw and use the CVF brackets, they raise the pump up and allow the pressure line to clear the K-Frame.
Are you wanting to run a stock box?
I have a manual trans so my point of view is from not having to deal with a column shifter if you have one.
Chrysler Small Block Power Steering Bracket (318, 340 & 360)
A408Cuda this post refers to itThe collapsible shaft is two pieces, solid shaft inside a tubular shaft. There are plastic pins though both that would shear in collision. So defeat the pins to shorten the shaft reduces how far it could collapse in a collision. Defeat the pins to extend the shaft reduces how far the two pieces are engaged. I've never been this route so I can't say how far the two pieces are originally engaged or if giving up a portion of that would be a problem.
Your best route is the power to manual adapter from aftermarket. There is more than one vendor/source with considerable price differences. The adapter solves both length and box coupling differences.