Mig Welder

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plumkrazee70

plumkrazee70

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Hello Everyone.

Need to get started on replacing a few patch panels and knew my flux core wasn't going to cover it. I got this welder, but have no idea how to setup the gas. Can anyone help?

Michael

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The gauge on the right is the PSI in your tank, the gauge on the left is the PSI going into your welder after being brought down by the regulator. You turn the big black knob to adjust the PSI going into your welder. I don't know what the directions say but I'd start at about 20 psi into the welder and adjust from there.
 
If you are welding by the garage door or out were there is wind turn your gas up to about 30 because the wind will blow away your gas and cause your weld to pop and splatter, and don't weld if you have a big fan blowing in your shop.
 
brian6pac said:
If you are welding by the garage door or out were there is wind turn your gas up to about 30 because the wind will blow away your gas and cause your weld to pop and splatter, and don't weld if you have a big fan blowing in your shop.
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Perfect. Thank you!
 
EDIT ........I took a look at your regulator photo and it appears to say L/m down in left corner --- That would BE flow as opposed to pressure


Read the manual and make certain the welder polarity is correct at the gun. It may be opposite from flux core. You can buy cheap flow meters, you hold it with the gun pointing up, and the flowmeter on top of the gun. With the wire disabled, it will show you the flow, around 15-20 cfm I've been told.
This is TIG shown here, same deal

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On a side note, I don't normally do the delicate work you are attempting, mine is mostly mild steel "backyard fab." If you might do a lot of that I just use pure CO2, it's a LOT cheaper and lasts "forever." CO2 is liquid in the container so there's much more of it so to speak.
 
Co2 works just not as clean a weld and the weld seems to burn a little hotter.
 
If you were previously using flux core,and welder was set up for it you need to switch polarity inside welder, manual will show it. Its in where wire spool goes. Two wing nuts on the cables.
The mention of carbon dioxide,cheaper, by a long shot but it leaves a taller fillet so actually its colder than argon.
Cheaper but more work to clean it up after.
 
I would guess CO2 is not what you want on delicate work. I use only CO2 but I don't do that sort of thing. It works just fine for everything I get into. There was no "cleanup" on these at all

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Little welding yesterday on the "wench" project" This is with Lincoln 180 MIG

Broke one of my own "principles" yesterday........

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The gas pictured in the first post is C25 as I'm sure the OP knows. That is ideal for 99% of automotive purposes. The left gauge is flow rate measured in CF/PHR. Set your rate with the trigger depressed as previously stated. The right gauge is tank pressure.

20 cf/PHR is a good starting point. If all is going well you can dial it back till you see porosity. Going too high will lead to problems too. A high flow rate can create turbulence that introduces atmosphere into the pool. 15-30 will cover almost any situation.

As also stated, check your polarity.
 
Pascamp said:
The gas pictured in the first post is C25 as I'm sure the OP knows. That is ideal for 99% of automotive purposes. The left gauge is flow rate measured in CF/PHR. Set your rate with the trigger depressed as previously stated. The right gauge is tank pressure.

20 cf/PHR is a good starting point. If all is going well you can dial it back till you see porosity. Going too high will lead to problems too. A high flow rate can create turbulence that introduces atmosphere into the pool. 15-30 will cover almost any situation.

As also stated, check your polarity.
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^^This^^
 
Also, if you're welding sheet metal, you'll have an easier time using .025/.023 wire and getting some welding spoons, if the setup permits. Chill blocks, just pieces of aluminum or copper/brass placed next to the weld, might not be a bad idea either.



This is TIG welding stainless, but it does an excellent job explaining the concept. Short runs and back step welding will also help prevent the panel warping all to Hell. S/F....Ken M
 
If you are new to using gas, open the valve on the cylinder slowly, and then all the way. Do not just open it a turn or so. Open the valve fully, and then make sure you close it when you turn your welder off. If you are doing sheetmetal, I recommend 0.23 wire instead of the more common 0.30. The smaller wire doesn't need as much heat and is a little easier to control. Plus less heat equals less chance of warping things.

Garry
 
Another gas saving tip-check it for leaks. I never did, then one day it dawned on me,a little soapy water revealed a tiny leak where reg connects to bottle. So who knows how much gas i lost over the years.check valve, reg and hose connections,could save you lots.
Oxy/acetelyne too.
 
Personally,i find flux core isnt suitable for bodywork. The aforementioned .023 wire isnt available in flux core so burn through is a constant problem.
It requires more cleanup and requires a lot more ventilation. As well the welds are porous.
 
plumkrazee70 said:
I was going to tackle lower quarter panel, and quarter skin on the dart. Im probably going to farm that work out. I'm just not that confident.
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just remember with sheet metal welding, spot and stitch with plenty of cool down in between. A continuious weld will warp the metal.
 
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