Mopar action green brick formula

Discussion in 'Suspension, Steering and Chassis' started by dodgedifferent2, May 18, 2017.

  1. dodgedifferent2

    dodgedifferent2 Well-Known Member

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    Ok I found my magazine from mopar action with the following information now in checklist form

    • 73-76 stock a body pieces
    • Tension strut rod bushings changed to urethane
    • Moog k7103 problem solver upper control arm bushings
    • Gusset upper control arm mount from bracket to rail
    • Weld heavy washer to k member around nose of lower control arm stud tube
    • Frame connectors
    • Gusset upper control arm/shock tower bracket to fender apron
    • Gusset steering box mounting bracket to k member
    • 74 and up C body tie rods 11/16 bolt in
    • Urethane sway bar frame bushings
    • Box lower control arm
    • 920 torsion bars
    • 1 inch sway bar
    • Koni shocks on full firm
    • 16:1 manual steering box (firm feel)
    • Eliminate bump steer in the chassis book
    Alignment specs from the green brick 1.5 degrees negative camber
    2.5 positive caster
    1/16 to 3/32 toe in

    Rear end
    • De arched ss springs
    • Koni shocks and rancho kicker shocks from offroad dodge pickups which controls wheel hop
    Brakes
    • 76 up 11.75 x 1" rotors
    • 73 up drum brake steering knuckles for large wheel bearings
    • 73 up big ball joint upper control arms
    • Viper caliper from 92 -02
    • AR engineering adapters
    • 10" x 2.5 drums on rear.
    Tires were his number one improvement
    • Light weight aluminum 15 x 8 rims
    • Tires temp rating of A
    • Traction rating AA or A
    • No m&s, all season or plus 4 tires
    • Treadwear rating the lower the better. Under 100 is a weekend warrior. 100 to 240 good compromise for daily street corner carving. Over 250 soccer mom's minivan or grandmas car.
    • Wider tire equals more rubber on road. 225 fits good on dart 40-45 and 15 inch. 225/40/15
    Engine is a highly tweaked 340 with w2 heads and I would have to dig deeper for the engine build.

    That should cover the majority of it all. Everything else is stock parts from rock auto, local parts stores amazon or wherever you get stock parts.
     
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    • 1968FormulaS340

      1968FormulaS340 Well-Known Member

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      The biggest part of the green brick formula, and the part least mentioned, was the driver.
       
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      • jos51700

        jos51700 Well-Known Member

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        That doesn't list half of it.

        There was lots of nitrous, plenty of weight saving and relocation strategies, two right side ss leaf springs (iirc), efi, transmission upgrades and as mentioned, a crop of better than average drivers.

        I believe an aluminum 8 3/4 chunk and torsen diff was part of later build as well.

        Rick has said more than once that the secret of the car's success was how light it was.
         
      • Hyper_pak

        Hyper_pak Old School Chrysler Fan

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        so where is the green brick today?
         
      • dodgedifferent2

        dodgedifferent2 Well-Known Member

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        I was just after the suspension aspect fot future hunters. It was mentioned that everyone says to follow the green brick on budget builds and nobody can find the details so I posted them.
        If people want to lighten their vehicle then that's an extreme case. I am going for the average person that won't blow their money on the latest and supposed greatest.
         
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        • dodgedifferent2

          dodgedifferent2 Well-Known Member

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          Last I heard the car was parted out and the engine was dissasembled and sent to every nook and cranny of the country. As for the car. I was under the impression it met it's demise.
           
        • 67Dart273

          67Dart273 Well-Known Member

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          Thanks for posting this
           
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          • Kern Dog

            Kern Dog Well-Known Member

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            ??????
            I doubt that. They had it repainted by Empire Motors a few years back. Would YOU part out a car after you had it repainted?
             
          • dodgedifferent2

            dodgedifferent2 Well-Known Member

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            If it hit a wall racing and bent it all to hell?
             
          • qkcuda

            qkcuda Well-Known Member

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            No need to use stock upper control arms and problem solver bushings now that we have many available aftermarket control arms which offer greater adjustability.
             
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            • jos51700

              jos51700 Well-Known Member

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              Iirc, Rick said that the adjustable sway bat links were a big benefit to the car, too.
               
            • replicaracer43

              replicaracer43 Old school member

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              It's bent the fender and grill, it was back racing the next day.
               
            • replicaracer43

              replicaracer43 Old school member

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              The car has to be capable though, and it certainly was....the driver you guys refer to, had NO race experience until he drove the valiant....just sayin
               
            • dodgedifferent2

              dodgedifferent2 Well-Known Member

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              Price plays the biggest factor and heim joint connectors bother me. Threads do pound out over time. I see it everyday with mechanical equipment
               
            • 1968FormulaS340

              1968FormulaS340 Well-Known Member

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              That's not what I read, but I could be wrong.
               
            • replicaracer43

              replicaracer43 Old school member

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              I'm pretty sure I read about that way back when they first covered it in the magazine, but I might be wrong too, but pretty sure that was his introduction to race driving. But regardless, he has talent, no doubt!
               
            • MOPEkidD-3

              MOPEkidD-3 Torsional Member

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              Only a couple of the aftermarket A-arms use Heim joints, the rest use poly or hard(er) rubber bushings similar to factory... I installed a set of QA1 tubular A-arms on my cousin's 1971 Satellite and they had stiff rubber bushings and a big upper ball joint just like stock, I have no concerns with their strength for hard street use.

              Also the Green Brick was built over a decade ago, like others said the aftermarket has come a LONG way since then and a lot of those "home-made" upgrades can now be purchased instead. Still great to know exactly what was in the car though!
               
            • MRGTX

              MRGTX Well-Known Member

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              Is anyone else curious as to the specs on those 15x8 wheels?
              IIRC, the Green Brick Valiant did not run flared fenders.
               
            • KosmicKuda

              KosmicKuda FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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              I remember they ran 225-50 x 15 Goodyears. Short diameter, looked a little funny to me.

              Kevin did most of the serious driving. He drove a lot of cars after that for some serious Mopar teams in various events.

              I distinctly remember seeing the Barton built small block for sale about 10 years ago. I tnink the ad said 30,000 miles on it and needed refreshing.
               
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              • MRGTX

                MRGTX Well-Known Member

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                It’s too bad that we can’t make this size work. There are still some legit performance tires in the 15”/50 series range but yeah, they’re ~2” too short which sure would look funny.
                 
              • Mattax

                Mattax Just the facts, ma'am FABO Gold Member

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                Maybe for your situation. Works fine for my setup. Its also quick way to run a bit lower roll axis and cg for autocross and track than when driving backroads and potholed streets.

                As far as the Green Brick, yes those are the details whichwere published in the print magazine after at least two of their efforts.
                Engine setups varied a bit. They got a little too ambitious on one of the first attempts and had problems.
                Rule number 1. To win you must be able to finish, or at least outlast the competition!

                Note on treadwear rating. Its based on the other tires made that company/brand. Do not pick tires based only on the TW, the nominal size, or traction ratings. Look at the tread width, the suggested temperature range, recommended camber etc. The last several years there have been an increased number oif '200 TW' tires made to meet competition rules. Many are not recommended to be used or stored under 50*F while some 'R' competition tire with 'only' a 100 TW rating can be used down to freezing temperatures without damage (although not ideal).
                 
              • Jarlaxle

                Jarlaxle Well-Known Member

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                Long-discontinued Welds, IIRC, from ~1990.
                 
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                • Jarlaxle

                  Jarlaxle Well-Known Member

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                  Initially, there was no spray-they did use two right springs (extra half leaf, IIRC). Trans was an 833 in an ancient (70's) Direct Connection aluminum case, with slant six (3.09) gears.

                  Had a Mickey Thompson magnesium centersection for a while...ran the last two One Laps with a piece from a Nevada junkyard. 2.94 gears-originally ran the stock cone Sure Grip, new diff might be a Torsen. (E-berg really likes them.) The old M/T piece was about the only trick part on the whole car.

                  Definitely. I recall seeing it's ~2700lbs.