Mounting Calipers back of Rotor

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SRT_DSTRHOLC

SRT_DSTRHOLC

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How do I do this? I want to put the weight of the calipers to the center of the car, but I also want to be able to bleed the brakes haha Please help any info welcome!
 
Complete left spindle and all other parts excluding the ball joint installed on the right. Right on the left. Then locate longer brake hoses. There is more than one thread that gives more details in you use the search. I have seen the brake hose part number and application they are using in other threads.

If you swap spindles only the bleeder will be on the bottom of the caliper.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
Complete left spindle and all other parts excluding the ball joint installed on the right. Right on the left. Then locate longer brake hoses. There is more than one thread that gives more details in you use the search. I have seen the brake hose part number and application they are using in other threads.

If you swap spindles only the bleeder will be on the bottom of the caliper.
Click to expand...

Thanks so all parts sep for the ball joint switch sides..Thank you.
 
and longer break hoses I will have to find those damn part numbers since I bought some already :(
 
The hoses that I had you could not use them on the rear mount caliper. The hard line part of the line would hit the caliper.
 
When I did my 68 Barracuda, I made sure to swap the spindles and calipers as described. Use some Volare hoses, remove the metal bracket that they have on them, and bolt them on. As you can see, there is plenty of play. Only down side, you may have to grind the end of the ball joint bolts or the stops on the lower ball joint to keep from losing your steering radius.
brakes.jpg
 
rob_robinson87 said:
When I did my 68 Barracuda, I made sure to swap the spindles and calipers as described. Use some Volare hoses, remove the metal bracket that they have on them, and bolt them on. As you can see, there is plenty of play. Only down side, you may have to grind the end of the ball joint bolts or the stops on the lower ball joint to keep from losing your steering radius.
brakes.jpg
Click to expand...


This is the first I have heard on this. Did you have the drive train in your car? Others please chime in so I can make sure if this is common so I can tell others when they ask.
 
Yes, drivetrain all in and all adjusted.. It may just be an issue with the early A-body like mine converting over to the large bolt pattern. The lower ball joint that I used has "stops" that limit the turn radius. I was able to grind them down some to regain some of the turning radius. Helps in parking lots.
 
I would find something else to do than swap spindles side to side to gain some weight distribution. It's pretty insignificant.
 
Well its all I got for right now until and its basically free, this along with moving battery to trunk and swapping to RACE disc in the rear. Any suggestions to getting the car to be more 50/50?
 
crackedback said:
I would find something else to do than swap spindles side to side to gain some weight distribution. It's pretty insignificant.
Click to expand...

The main reason I switched mine from the front to the rear was to gain clearance on my sway bar link. They would hit upon turning the steering wheel.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
The main reason I switched mine from the front to the rear was to gain clearance on my sway bar link. They would hit upon turning the steering wheel.
Click to expand...

But that's something that you need to do.

Moving them for wt dist. isn't worth the effort IMO. If they weren't on the car and you wanted to mount them that way, great. Taking them off to switch is an energy waster. Moving 20-25# max, 10 inches reward... wouldn't likely change the f/r bias .01%
 
I have read of swapping spindles L-R before, but does anybody address how this changes the caster angle? The spindles on my drum brake 65 are not symmetrical about a vertical axis and I expect the same is true for disk brake spindles. Therefore it probably changes the caster. That could be good if it improves it so the pivot axis is more in front of the tire.
 
i too, think its a waste of energy to swap the spindles and calipers to the rear, just to try to move weight to the rear...i dont think it helps, at all, in that aspect...i have aftermarket spindles i got from RMS, that have this already built into them, main reason for me was to gain sway bar clearance....

bill, dont think it messes with caster in my opinion...

for the brake hoses, i had some custom braided lines made from my local speed shop....30 bucks each..
 
In the pic above that line enters the top so the bleeder ( not shown ) is at the bottom. To free bleed those calipers completely you would need to lay them upside down on top the spindle.
To completely bleed them any other way would never happen.
To switch the calipers from there original or OEM location will make the original limes too short and subject to stretch. I have very slowly and carefully rebent the metal part of the original lines so they dont get stretched but ... keeping that line off the inside of a 14 inch wheel is tricky too.
 
RedFish said:
In the pic above that line enters the top so the bleeder ( not shown ) is at the bottom. To free bleed those calipers completely you would need to lay them upside down on top the spindle.
To completely bleed them any other way would never happen.
To switch the calipers from there original or OEM location will make the original limes too short and subject to stretch. I have very slowly and carefully rebent the metal part of the original lines so they dont get stretched but ... keeping that line off the inside of a 14 inch wheel is tricky too.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is the hard way to do things. That is why you move the complete assemblies so the calipers remain in the correct upright position so you can bleed the brakes.
 
Sounds like something I should think about some more. I might not do it right now but maybe later on when I run out of things to do to the car.
 
The picture is deceiving. My bleeders are on the top. I have a banjo fitting that has a hard line that I have tilted up to run to the line.
 
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