MRL 360 Coolant Temp 210+

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Apparently all the Prestone coolants are based on OATS (organic acid technology which eats away at silicone(gaskets), solder and some metals. Older technology is IAT(inorganic ADDITIVE technology) and doesn't harm(as much) our older rads.
Peak antifreeze apparently has some older technology stuff. I'm going to check and see. Ive never heard of this but Don's started out as a youngster in his dad's rad shop and been doing rads for 40+ years.
Why “No to Prestone?”
 
Apparently all the Prestone coolants are based on OATS (organic acid technology which eats away at silicone(gaskets), solder and some metals. Older technology is IAT(inorganic ADDITIVE technology) and doesn't harm(as much) our older rads.
Peak antifreeze apparently has some older technology stuff. I'm going to check and see. Ive never heard of this but Don's started out as a youngster in his dad's rad shop and been doing rads for 40+ years.
I`m glad u splained this, I thot oats were food !!
 
I recently found a topic on an Audi-forum where someone tested a number of brands and PEAK came out WORST.
Far worst, as it didn't seem to provide any means of protection for the cooling system at all.
The test was with mixed / dissimilar metals in a cooling system, just like most people use like iron, aluminium and copper.

EDIT:
This is the topic;
Antifreeze Experiment & Testing
 
Does anyone know or is there a site that lists the diameters of a 1973 water pump (original 340) with A/C? Getting soon to pull it apart.

The service manual states a 1:30:1 water pump to crank ratio with A/C. Wondering how this is achieved....
 
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I would definitely have the radiator gone through. Ambient temps in the low-mid 80*s my 360 creeps to about 210* (Autometer gauge) or just right of center (factory gauge) in stop and go, and that's with the original /6 rad (recored with larger cores but still only 2 row), flex fan and no shroud. I definitely had issues before I got the timing and carb dialed in (fairly fresh rebuild). It would get much hotter with not enough timing.

Also, water wetter definitely helped my big block in my E-body several years ago. Obviously no good if you drive in winter temps.
 
Does anyone know or is there a site that lists the diameters of a 1973 water pump (original 340) with A/C? Getting soon to pull it apart.

The service manual states a 1:30:1 water pump to crank ratio with A/C. Wondering how this is achieved....

Because the water pump pulley on AC cars was/is smaller then the pulley on a non AC car.

On another note: AC water pumps have 6 vanes, non AC pumps have 8 vanes.
 
To the original poster,
As mentioned, shake the clutch fan, and try a fixed fan.
 
I would FIRST confirm the aftermarket gauge's temp by pointing a laser temp-gauge at the waterpump, t-stathousing and hoses.
I have a SunPro temp gauge in another car that decided to add 20°F to the original temp one day. But the engine is also still running hot because of a partly clogged radiator, so all this didn't help matters when you're driving around and you notice the gauge at 230-240 on the highway.

This was going to be my suggestion. I've got a fresh 408 with a new Champion 3 row radiator and dual electric fans. Temps on a hot 95 degree day cruising were pushing 215-220 but when I stopped, nothing seemed out of the ordinary so we pushed on. Drove another 30 minutes home and was really sweating it, literally. I put the IR temp gun on it and it read 195 at the thermostat housing and water pump. Cheap *** Chinese Auto Gage guages.
 
Installed new HE 3 row 26” US Radiator, new thermal heavy duty fan clutch Hayden 2747, tweaked the mounting holes for the stock fan shroud. Runs now at 180-185 with a 180 degree thermostat. About 25 degree drop.

Conventional 50/50 antifreeze.

I added a lower radiator SS spring as well.
 
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