AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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graphs?
MRL Performance NHRA IS/A 360
- Thread starter MRL Performance
- Start date
-
perfacar
Well-Known Member
hi, I looked at class section of NHRA. as a volare, prem coupe, has to weigh 3505 min wgt. factor is 12.16,= I/SA. index is 12.30 seconds. according to mopar H/P equation, should run 11.20 @ 117 MPH, or there abouts, very good. and legal too!!!!!
And the closest guess gets a 350 horse 273 build....thanks Mike.
Lol
Lol
MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
LOL I just build the engines, its p to you guys to make them work in your car. I wish I could race, but no $$$$ and no time. Maybe someday again I can get back on the track. Used to race years ago, but got so busy fixing and tuning other peoples stuff I had no time for myself so I just gave it up.
True to a point. Once you build it like this, you really don't want to drive it like a stocker. You won't really like I think.
MRL Performance
Well-Known Member
I have 30 hours into these heads, its crazy what time it takes to make stock heads work this good without portiing.
stroked340
Well-Known Member
At what rate per hour???..
replicaracer43
Grumpy Old Man
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Which is what I was getting at........this is deffinatley not a "budget" build, people think because it uses some stock parts, that it somehow means it can be done cheep. And that is foolish. The realitly is it would be cheaper to make the same power with other parts, but that's whats cool about "class rules" engine building.... Nice build!
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Either I missed it in the emails or Mike didn't tell me he started this thread! :scratch: lol
Anyway, I'm not so worried about winning individual class. I can't afford to get into a HP and $$$$$ war with anyone to be "the" fastest. But that doesn't mean I don't want to find ways of going faster when I have the time & money to try. I went with MRL because of his attention to detail even though he never built a Stock class engine before. I chose I/SA or maybe even J/SA because there aren't as many cars in it to worry about for heads-up. I/SA or J/SA, it's gonna weigh well more than my current Dart Sport, which is 3,540+ with driver. I just want a reliable, consistent and predictable car that will help get me to the finals in regular eliminations. I'll be content with low 12's. But the deeper into the 11's it goes, the happier I'll be. Hopefully the chassis and drivetrain set up will help. But that's nothing fancy either. It's my first NHRA effort because Thermoquads always scared me. A lot to learn but luckily I know someone who knows how to tune them. The 4.86 gears should be right but converter and carb tune will be critical. Replacing the conventional break-in oil with Amsoil 5w-20 or 10w-30 Dominator synthetic will help too.
I still have to get the engine back. No set date on a debut. Local track tuning first, then hopefully an NHRA race before the end of the season. I still have my current IHRA efforts in Stock to worry about.
Rumble - Class index of 12.30 is the minimum performance requirement. Dial 12.30 or faster only. Then it's a bracket race unless I get paired with another I/SA in regular eliminations or for occasional class run-offs. Amount under the index also determines your spot on the ladder. 70aarcuda and tqfastfish explained it pretty well earlier.
I can use either a 1 3/8" primary TQ or a 1 1/2" primary TQ.
Bad Sport - [-X I saw that! ;-)
A few details about the car itself, which are similar to my Dart:
* TTI 1 5/8-1 3/4" step headers with 3" X-pipe and Dynomax Bullet race mufflers.
* Holshot wheels and Hoosier tires all around.
* SS style springs.
* Frames tied w/8 point roll bar.
* Adjustable Rancho shocks in the rear and experimenting with custom double-adjustable shocks up front.
* JW 904 trans with reverse manual valve body & Hurst 1/4 stick.
* Lots of Mallory & Accel ignition products.
* Fuel will be Sunoco Purple, like I've used forever.
* 8 3/4" rear w/4.86 gear Cryo-REM treated by Evans Performance, lightened Moser spool & axles.
* Custom driveshaft by Gary's Driveline w/billet rear end yoke.
* Autometer Ultimate DL tach going in with O2 sensor to help tune the engine.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qsOHTaaW4g"]Auto Meter's Ultimate DL Playback Tach at PRI 2011 - YouTube[/ame]
Needs paint after all the decals are off.
1978 Dodge Aspen Wagon.
(A little trivia - I graduated HS in '75, which is what my Dart Sport is. Aspen is a '78, which is when I actually started drag racing.)
Not my garage. :sad7:
Anyway, I'm not so worried about winning individual class. I can't afford to get into a HP and $$$$$ war with anyone to be "the" fastest. But that doesn't mean I don't want to find ways of going faster when I have the time & money to try. I went with MRL because of his attention to detail even though he never built a Stock class engine before. I chose I/SA or maybe even J/SA because there aren't as many cars in it to worry about for heads-up. I/SA or J/SA, it's gonna weigh well more than my current Dart Sport, which is 3,540+ with driver. I just want a reliable, consistent and predictable car that will help get me to the finals in regular eliminations. I'll be content with low 12's. But the deeper into the 11's it goes, the happier I'll be. Hopefully the chassis and drivetrain set up will help. But that's nothing fancy either. It's my first NHRA effort because Thermoquads always scared me. A lot to learn but luckily I know someone who knows how to tune them. The 4.86 gears should be right but converter and carb tune will be critical. Replacing the conventional break-in oil with Amsoil 5w-20 or 10w-30 Dominator synthetic will help too.
I still have to get the engine back. No set date on a debut. Local track tuning first, then hopefully an NHRA race before the end of the season. I still have my current IHRA efforts in Stock to worry about.
Rumble - Class index of 12.30 is the minimum performance requirement. Dial 12.30 or faster only. Then it's a bracket race unless I get paired with another I/SA in regular eliminations or for occasional class run-offs. Amount under the index also determines your spot on the ladder. 70aarcuda and tqfastfish explained it pretty well earlier.
I can use either a 1 3/8" primary TQ or a 1 1/2" primary TQ.
Bad Sport - [-X I saw that! ;-)
A few details about the car itself, which are similar to my Dart:
* TTI 1 5/8-1 3/4" step headers with 3" X-pipe and Dynomax Bullet race mufflers.
* Holshot wheels and Hoosier tires all around.
* SS style springs.
* Frames tied w/8 point roll bar.
* Adjustable Rancho shocks in the rear and experimenting with custom double-adjustable shocks up front.
* JW 904 trans with reverse manual valve body & Hurst 1/4 stick.
* Lots of Mallory & Accel ignition products.
* Fuel will be Sunoco Purple, like I've used forever.
* 8 3/4" rear w/4.86 gear Cryo-REM treated by Evans Performance, lightened Moser spool & axles.
* Custom driveshaft by Gary's Driveline w/billet rear end yoke.
* Autometer Ultimate DL tach going in with O2 sensor to help tune the engine.
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qsOHTaaW4g"]Auto Meter's Ultimate DL Playback Tach at PRI 2011 - YouTube[/ame]
Needs paint after all the decals are off.
1978 Dodge Aspen Wagon.
(A little trivia - I graduated HS in '75, which is what my Dart Sport is. Aspen is a '78, which is when I actually started drag racing.)
Not my garage. :sad7:
LMAO, can't blame a guy fer tryin".
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Yes, I got it from Rebel. Thanks. Needs some paint & detail work, but is a great foundation. I'll be carrying a spare TQ or 2, just in case. He's already working on a replacement.
So you need a certain model number?
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Carbs? No, not anymore. They changed the rules which allow the same carb type as long as the throttle bores and all are the same as the original. Engine specs for 1978 show both sizes. Bigger one should theoretically be faster, but I'll be trying both to find the better individual carb regardless of size. Then I'll worry about comparing & fine-tuning.
Then look for the earliest ones except the first year with the least amount of vacuum lines on it. The tube up on the top plate is never an issue.
clonestocker
Active Member
Myron, I was wondering if that was for the Wagon. Got to see a few more pictures of it. Nice! You going to run NHRA or IHRA with that car? Enjoy matt
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Rumble,
Yea, I have a few to build/try, from '72 through '79. I've always been told that they are finicky and sensitive, and that 2 built exactly the same may not perform the same. One of the 2 carbs I sent to Mike didn't work at all. The other did, despite being rich. Only a couple of numbers difference in jets, but he said something else must have been wrong with it. I'll do more tuning with Rebel's (previous owner) help when I get the engine in.
Yea, I have a few to build/try, from '72 through '79. I've always been told that they are finicky and sensitive, and that 2 built exactly the same may not perform the same. One of the 2 carbs I sent to Mike didn't work at all. The other did, despite being rich. Only a couple of numbers difference in jets, but he said something else must have been wrong with it. I'll do more tuning with Rebel's (previous owner) help when I get the engine in.
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
Matt,
Yes, Aspen wagon only and for NHRA. I will continue to race the Dart in IHRA because it has worked so well for me. IF at some point the Aspen should end up more consistent & predictable than the Dart, I may consider running the Aspen in IHRA as well. I have to put more emphasis on what can win more races for me but have to try NHRA for more opportunities. So it's going to be a nightmare trying to juggle & store 2 cars. Heck, it's already tough physically and financially trying to race the Dart and work on the Aspen 2 hours away from home. Hopefully the "investment" pays off.
I had a TQ for many a years, they are easy carbs to build and tune, once you get to know them.
When i changed from TQ to a Holley was because there was NO parts available for them and the throttle shaft was so shot that it idled differently every time the throttle came back to a idle.
Stick with the TQ and you will learn to love it!!!!!!!
When i changed from TQ to a Holley was because there was NO parts available for them and the throttle shaft was so shot that it idled differently every time the throttle came back to a idle.
Stick with the TQ and you will learn to love it!!!!!!!
Locomotion
Well-Known Member
For this particular class/combo, I don't have any other choice because of the rules.
There is a lot of thing with the TQ that don't cost a red dime, just time to dial it in to what you motor wants. Such as the secondary air door spring, and the leaning out of the fuel on the top end with how far you open that door past spec.
The more TQ you can get you hands on, (72 and up) the better. even if it is a seized up one.
Spare jet, metering rod and all that little **** that just gets lost or brake.
That's another thing that cost you nothing but time! the little screw between the metering rods that adj the spring tension or timing of the metering rods.
I know its the only choice of carb you have. but it won't belong before you will pull the carb apart and back together, on the car, between rounds with out a 2nd thought. :glasses7:
The more TQ you can get you hands on, (72 and up) the better. even if it is a seized up one.
Spare jet, metering rod and all that little **** that just gets lost or brake.
That's another thing that cost you nothing but time! the little screw between the metering rods that adj the spring tension or timing of the metering rods.
I know its the only choice of carb you have. but it won't belong before you will pull the carb apart and back together, on the car, between rounds with out a 2nd thought. :glasses7:
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