My '67 Valiant 100 Big Block 4 Speed Restoration

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Yes, they were small valve heads. And since this engine did use 516 heads, that means those exhaust manifolds from the B and C body will fit it just right. If you want some better performing stock heads, go for some 906s or some 915s if ya can find em
 
nice build at 16 to 18 yrs old. i pick up a 71 dart at 17 yrs still not done with it now i'm 21.i have 68 440 for it.then i also i have 72 duster which u see pic on the side i'm going to stick a 383 in it.its so cool when people make big block a-body mopars.u could probably pound that dent out on the quarter.it might bring the body line back.if u could find a another one it would be better.
 
Nice find !

Not sure why you're cursing the rubber mats ... carpet would've done the same if not worse ; it's the jute backing that absorbs and retains the moisture . Rubber mats with the backing removed would be ideal !
But , the again , I'm biased toward rubber mats vs. carpet : easy to keep clean , and I like the cheap-o , budget look of 'em .

Those bent push rods should be okay . Just slap into a vice and use some pliers to straighten 'em ; then , wrap 'em in electrical tape .

The 7.25" diff is also okay to re-use . They hold-up fine behind anything ; my '70 Hemi / 3 speed manual converted Barracuda has the 7.25" with 2.76 gearing , and it's just fine .

The Imperial exhaust manifolds will be good as well . Simply drill a hole through the driver's side manifold with a hole saw and slip the manifold over the steering shaft prior to slippin' the motor in . Hold the manifold to the fenderwell with some Temporary Scotch Tape while you're jammin' that 413 in there .

Okay , now that I'm done being an *** ...

Seriously , this is a rad project !! And , yes I was serious about the whole rubber mat deal , just before I started being a stupid head jerk .

I truly applaud your efforts and labour . Thanks for the updates !

Have yourself a great week .
 
Thanks everyone. I was thinking that sense the rubber mat isn't porous it would retain the water better and not get evaporated. I'm actually leaning back to making the interior red again and putting the rubber mat (for the same reasons as you listed) with NO insulation (or very little to save weight). I know, I know, I should definitely put the insulation in there. I also plan on removing the heater and make it like a heater delete car. The final thing I want to do is to put a Barracuda dash in it to you know.....give it that personal touch and be different. If I could find one with a 150mph & a tach for cheap that would be awesome. Also I'm putting a latter ('73?) Dart/Duster split bench seat with built arm rest & head rest for safety reasons.
 
I know it seems like I'm going fast put these pictures range all the way from January to now. So its been like 6-7 months of work. I really want get this done before the end of Senior year (I'm 16 and a junior) just to prove that I've been restoring an old Mopar. At my school everyone is either a chevy or ferd guy and don't believe it when I say I'm working on a Mopar........even when I show them pictures of me working on it!:angry7: Their all just ignorant :thebirdm: asses :bootysha: when it comes to cars.
 
its no different for me to.people are assholes in las vegas to.when i tell them about cars.they think abody's aren't muscle cars. there wrong!
 
Picture of the crank and the cam is siting in that tube next to it. Picture of the bare block. Whats up with this bearing? Thats the worst out of the 5 but the others still look similar, but not as bad. I think its the #5? bearing.........the one at the back of the engine.
 

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I be wiping them cylinder walls down with WD-40 and fresh paper towels if I were you.

A good rust free floor in this part of the country will be near impossible to find. Shipping one in from the west will be expensive too. I have seen the a-body full floors up at Chryslers at Carlisle a few times. Now that new floors can be had I would bet the original floors would be cheaper. Crackedback might be able to find you one and cut it down the middle of the trans tunnel to save on shipping.
 
Cleaned the back of the fender of and primed it. I'm working on the other one to get it ready for primer.
 

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How do I remove the distributor shaft bushing?
 

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OR with a dent slide hammer & a bolt. When you install the new one your going to have to hone the center to fit the pump drive. I had to & it took a few tries to get it right
 
Thats a build right there! I love that you are using a 413. Keep the pics coming!
 
you said you needed floorpans correct??
You might wanna give Gotham City Muscle Cars a phone call as they are a certified AMD dealer and may be able to get you some floorpans from them

here's their phone number:
718-948-3527

They are in Staten Island. Its worth a shot to give 'em a call
 
that one bearing seems like it didn't get enough oil to it is all, maybe a journal got closed. check to see if the crank line is true just in case there's wear
 
Oiled the cylinder walls, bearings, and lifter guides for the time being with PB Blaster. When it comes time to do the engine work I hope I can get away with a simple hone job and not have to bore it out to save some money because there's almost no ridge at the tops of the cylinders. Could I get away with reusing the original pistons (put new rings on them) as they yelded 10:1 or more compression and because most of the pistons out there are the dish kind for low compression engines?
 
You have to check for cylinder wall taper to know if it needs to be bored or not.
 
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I love your young gun cheap project !
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