my Low dollar 318 hop-up project

-
318willrun said:
RRR, I bought a carb on Saturday from ebay. Yes, I would have been interested for sure, and thanks for putting out the offer.

I actually have everything now, and when the carb arrives, I'll post pictures of the rest..... and the best part.......
].............................I stayed under 499.00 :cheers:
Click to expand...

What kind of HP/TQ numbers might you be expecting?

Jeff
 
MrJLR said:
What kind of HP/TQ numbers might you be expecting?

Jeff
Click to expand...

I will let others guess, and throw out opinions. Honestly, regardless of what it may actually have, I'm shooting for my target, high 14's at around 93 mph. I will say I believe a factory 340 makes about 90 hp more than a factory 318 2bbl. If I can throw under 500.00 at a 318 2bbl and run with a '73 340 Duster (factory), I will be thrilled. Remember, I'm using the factory converter, 2.76 gears, and no headers. So that means I need to add at least 90 horsepower to run with the 340 duster, because they came with 3.23 gears.
I don't know IF I added 90 horse or not (yikes, without headers...?????), but I'm more focused on what I want the car to do other than numbers on paper.
 
^^^^^^ Further let me say, my ultimate goal here is to give at least one recipe to somebody else on how to "spunk up" their 318 2bbl on a very limited budget. I also put together the 4 videos so it will be more instructive to get them started in the right direction. It will be exciting to see the numbers at the drag strip.
 
318willrun said:
Exactly! If it was easy, it wouldn't be fun!!!!
Click to expand...

I got my other head ported yesterday. ......
I still need to lap the valves now...can't reassemble until I get my cam, lifters and springs.
I think I'm going with a Hughes Whiplash cam kit...

My build has some advantages. ...I have 3:55 gears and Doug's D453 headers.

Can't wait to get it back on the road again!

:burnout:
 
I got a magazine article where they dyno a dead stock 2bbl 318. But had to use headers cause of the dyno before they did there cam and intake upgrade and it made 186 hp. And made 282 hp @ 5000 with XE262H and 4bbl.
Probably puts the 318 100 hp under factory 340 hp numbers.
 
318willrun said:
RRR, I bought a carb on Saturday from ebay. Yes, I would have been interested for sure, and thanks for putting out the offer.

I actually have everything now, and when the carb arrives, I'll post pictures of the rest..... and the best part.......
].............................I stayed under 499.00 :cheers:
Click to expand...

The Eddy is about the best you could have gotten for it. While the Holley is good, the Eddy has small primary barrels and is capable of better mileage and a more crisp response. That was a good choice.
 
273 said:
That's what they said
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter--not near enough for OP's goal with manifolds and highway rear gearing. OP needs 300+hp and 340-360 ft/lbs. The manifolds and 2.76 gears are only 2 limitations but they are the 2 worst limitations. J.Rob
 
I mainly brought it up to show the OP he was in the ballpark with the factory 318 hp numbers. Plus I think it's a good article for 318 guys shows you don't need to do much to get great results.

I like what the OP doing focusing most of his budget on the 2 things that give you the most bang for your dollar cam and heads
 
I'm with RAMM. IMO, the gear ratio is the biggest hurdle. Headers would help. But it's all good. The home porting of the head is a big help.
 
RAMM said:
Doesn't matter--not near enough for OP's goal with manifolds and highway rear gearing. OP needs 300+hp and 340-360 ft/lbs. The manifolds and 2.76 gears are only 2 limitations but they are the 2 worst limitations. J.Rob
Click to expand...

You may very well be right, but stick around a bit and we will find out :) !! Only numbers I like on paper are printed on a E.T. slip :D Regardless, this will still be a cheap build option for folks wanting to add a little more pep to their 318.
 
Can't believe that they used 2.76 gears behind 318 2bbl 318s over there. First thing i did with my 69 barracuda with 318 when it came here to Australia was to pull the 2.76 diff out,throw it out and install a 3.23 diff out of a 67 valiant slant 6. Our 318 cars had 2.92:1 factory and that was bad enough!

Make sure you put the smallest diameter tyres on it that you can find,that will help it.

Next episode to this series should be the installation of a cheap diff with lower ratio(is there a lower ratio in the slant cars?) and a slant 6 904 converter for a bit extra stall speed. The $100 driveline upgrade!
 
Evil66, our car also came with 2.92 and a super Hwy. gear of 2.45.
Just I case you need to go really really far on a small amount of gas OR travel at 190+ mph. Just incase!

3.21/3.23 were also a normal find.
 
Let me say again, that I have not confirmed the 2.76 gears, but that is my guess. Feels geared for the road, and most others I've owned had the 2.76 with the 7 1/4 rear. Not gonna go looking now, car is under cover and snow on the ground...... lol
 
Arguable on the carb. The eddie is great,I've had a few. But I seriously love the tq.....and a used one might fit the budget better. Those smog tq's arent worth more thn $20,a rebuild wont cost more than $30-40
 
needsaresto said:
Arguable on the carb. The eddie is great,I've had a few. But I seriously love the tq.....and a used one might fit the budget better. Those smog tq's arent worth more thn $20,a rebuild wont cost more than $30-40
Click to expand...

yes I love a good TQ, but to find a good rebuild able one, and I admit i'm not smart enough to tune the darn thing! Ha after you buy 6 cores, that's $120 !!!!
 
Good scavenging X pipe system can fill in some low end issues..... Something you would only see on a rear wheel dyno.
 
Lol! I find the biggest issue with the tq is those phenolic bodies warping,and you gots a vacuum leak. I have at least 6 sitting in my shop,so thought I would mention it. Those smog versions are easy peasy to come by..and around here it seems their on every 400 big block! I guess the eddie is the easy way to go,parts are easily had.
 
needsaresto said:
Lol! I find the biggest issue with the tq is those phenolic bodies warping,and you gots a vacuum leak. I have at least 6 sitting in my shop,so thought I would mention it. Those smog versions are easy peasy to come by..and around here it seems their on every 400 big block! I guess the eddie is the easy way to go,parts are easily had.
Click to expand...

We used to draw file the centers to mill them flat. A 18" mill file will do the trick.
 
toolmanmike said:
We used to draw file the centers to mill them flat. A 18" mill file will do the trick.
Click to expand...

Hmm nice! That reminds me of how I used to true up an aluminum head for a small engine. I would take a nice piece of flat plate window glass and lay it on my shop table.tape a peice of 320 grit down,and rub the head in a circular motion .Im thinking this would work for a phenolic body also. Those well plugs on the other hand ,if leaking ...well those are a bit of a problem to remove without destroying.
 
needsaresto said:
Hmm nice! That reminds me of how I used to true up an aluminum head for a small engine. I would take a nice piece of flat plate window glass and lay it on my shop table.tape a peice of 320 grit down,and rub the head in a circular motion .Im thinking this would work for a phenolic body also. Those well plugs on the other hand ,if leaking ...well those are a bit of a problem to remove without destroying.
Click to expand...

Yes sir. You're on to something there! I'm not familiar with the well plugs but if they are anything like the leaky metering well plugs in the Quadrajet's, a little 2 part epoxy takes care of the problem.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top