Tear done should be slow and careful! It will happen again, if you don't find out the "why" of what failed. I would start the teardown in the car. Distributor, intermediate shaft, oil pressure gauge, priming tool and a drill. find out if oil is getting where it should, as well as having pressure. Then intake, and maybe heads...........then i would pull the motor. But that's just me.
My oil filter does not look good.
- Thread starter doogievlg
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doogievlg
Well-Known Member
It will be much easier to prime the engine with it out of the car. I'll put some plastic down and pop the valve covers off and see if I am even getting oil to the valve train.
Keep in mind that if your bearings are hammered your oil pressure won't be a reliable indicator of what the initial failure was.
TrailBeast
AKA Mopars4us on Youtube
I saw your post, but when you posted the contents of that filter I was wondering why it was even a discussion about where in the motor and why it happened.
It was sooo pull time and any other speculation doesn't really matter unless it is being done for the fun of it, and I'm fairly sure this is the case.
With that much metal in the filter it's just no other choice but a full teardown, clean, inspect and rebuild.
I'll tell ya right now your going to be at least replacing a cam, the bearings and lifters or grinding a crank along with all the related stuff like oil pump and lower bearings, but nobody want's to hear that.
Maybe it is a good excuse for a stroker at this point like revenho hinted at.
Just my own opinion obviously and no offense meant.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
disassemble the oil pump and inspect and measure clearances. if the pump is fairly new it was spinning and not failed
furrystump
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How did the cam spin? With your fingers? New cam bearings in it? As stupid as it might sound, new cam bearings are often really TIGHT! Due to the bearings being set to one tolerance and the tunnel being set to another. Most machine shops don't address this issue. If the cam "self" clearance it could be cam bearing.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
She’s back together. Didn’t go with a stroker but I went through this old thread for some laughs.
pntastar69
Well-Known Member
We supposed to guess what the culptit(s) was (were)???
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I thought I made another thread about that but I am blaming it on the fuel pump shooting fuel into the oil. The crank trigger smelled like fuel bad and I had noticed the engine cutting out at WOT. The oil pick up and pumper were replace. Fuel pump, filter, and lines from pump to carbuerator were replaced. I should be in the clear.
Link to the other thread? I just read this entire thread and I'm on the edge of my seat!
Does the other thread list what got hurt? Condition of everything? Etc.
Does the other thread list what got hurt? Condition of everything? Etc.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Material came from the bearings. The crank was scored pretty bad and needed to be turned. I caught it in time to save the need for more boring. The only damage really was to the crankshaft. The oil pump was still in good shape as well as the bronze bushing on the distributor shaft.
One rod bearing had bad wear on it also so I had the machine shop balance the engine again to be safe and it turns out the “reputable shop” i used the first time didn’t do a good job.
rustycowll69
Well-Known Member
so I assumed you pre-oiled the re rebuilt engine? what was the oil pressure? I assume you disassembled and cleaned the relief valve on the oil pump that you reused. What oil filter are you using? what brand/weight of oil?
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
Engine was primed, oil pump was replaced, oil pressure went all the way to 80 on the dyno pulls. Not sure what weight and brand of oil. Didn’t get that info from the engine builder yet.
Thanks.
I'm late to the party, but, as mentioned, I sure hope you completely disassembled it and cleaned it. Including oil passages.
You accepted this well. I think thats the only way to handle any problem. It doesn't help any to get upset.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
It is what it is. I spent about a month traveling around Ohio and Kentucky talking to different builders and ended up taking it to a shop called Kammer and Kammer after reading post from other mopar forums and talking to racers and old timers. They had the ending for 5 months and last week they finally put it on the dyno.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Was the failing fuel pump old or new?
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
It was roughly 10 years old.
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
Ah.... that would explain it.
Hope you got it all fixed now. As a mechanical friend of mine like to say "The machinery always wins." As above, just go with it and move forward.
Hope you got it all fixed now. As a mechanical friend of mine like to say "The machinery always wins." As above, just go with it and move forward.
doogievlg
Well-Known Member
I noticed the engine cutting out about a month before it happened. Watched the fuel pressure gauge and never noticed a big drop even when reving the engine. It is what it is.
Marcohotrod
Well-Known Member
Another reason to run an electric fuel pump
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