Need Advice, Suggestions

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johnmucci said:
I really don't know, all this work was done in Delray Beach, One would presume that they put new u joints in it...cost me $150 for cut and balance..I didn't take the driveshaft to the shop, the engine builder did and he Installed the engine,tranny etc...
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Seems you have the correct parts on the engine and with the vibration that bad i think i'd look to the shaft first as the cause. I'm getting the feel from what you've said that it's a pretty pronoused vibration and i doubt the front end work is causing it unless something was installed wrong or left loose.
 
waggin said:
don't presume they redid the ball and trunion part of the driveshaft the kit ain't exactly cheap
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So what you are saying is if I remove the driveshaft completely out of the car and start it up and run it through 1st, 2nd, and drive and it does not shake or vibrate then it would be a driveshaft problem..correct??...sorry I am no mechanic as you guys have probably already figured out...
 
OldmanRick said:
Seems you have the correct parts on the engine and with the vibration that bad i think i'd look to the shaft first as the cause. I'm getting the feel from what you've said that it's a pretty pronoused vibration and i doubt the front end work is causing it unless something was installed wrong or left loose.
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Xs2.

Did they use your original transmission when they did the job or did they install everything from the engine through the rear end?
 
yup yup...hes spot on with the hub needing a bushing I overlooked that with my post :eek:ops:
Oklacarcollecto said:
What waggin said.

Also if you have the original transmission in the car the hub is smaller than the end of the 360 crankshaft. There is a bushing that has to be installed unless a special hub was put on the torque convertor.
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As ok. collector said, a running test on jack stands while observing the drivetrain is probably your easiest test at this point.
 
yepp, you mentioned he had a convertor built I knida assumed the used the original case....I went thru all this decades ago and finally got a convertor guy to do what I asked..the results were awesome!!!
johnmucci said:
So what you are saying is if I remove the driveshaft completely out of the car and start it up and run it through 1st, 2nd, and drive and it does not shake or vibrate then it would be a driveshaft problem..correct??...sorry I am no mechanic as you guys have probably already figured out...
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OldmanRick said:
Seems you have the correct parts on the engine and with the vibration that bad i think i'd look to the shaft first as the cause. I'm getting the feel from what you've said that it's a pretty pronoused vibration and i doubt the front end work is causing it unless something was installed wrong or left loose.
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I'm no mechanic by a long shot, that being said, I don't think its a front end issue, the car vibrates so bad its shaking the package tray and rattling everything, console, bucket seats, etc...man this really sucks!!!
 
Curtis, you're workin' too hard here on your Birthday brother:D:D. And never ever let me see the birthday suit photo's again.....LMAO.


Sorry John, not trying to hijack your thread.
 
.Also if you have the original transmission in the car the hub is smaller than the end of the 360 crankshaft. There is a bushing that has to be installed unless a special hub was put on the torque convertor"



.I went through the issue of using the 1965 904 tranny with the magnum 360 and that is why the engine builder had a custom torque converter made by Hughes..over $400 for that. That was supposed to solve the difference in the input shaft, bushing issue..
 
johnmucci said:
.Also if you have the original transmission in the car the hub is smaller than the end of the 360 crankshaft. There is a bushing that has to be installed unless a special hub was put on the torque convertor"



.I went through the issue of using the 1965 904 tranny with the magnum 360 and that is why the engine builder had a custom torque converter made by Hughes..over $400 for that. That was supposed to solve the difference in the input shaft, bushing issue..
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Then I would put it on jack stands and check it out.
 
Did the mechanic that did the work take the car out for a test drive? We always did it at the shop two times (mechanic first and management second) so we could make sure there were no problems when the customer picked up the car.
 
Thanks to all who have replied to my issue.. it's the first of a few...sorry guys!!.... I will attempt to solve one issue at a time...thanks again for all your help...will try the jackstands tomorrow
 
johnmucci said:
Thanks to all who have replied to my issue.. it's the first of a few...sorry guys!!.... I will attempt to solve one issue at a time...thanks again for all your help...will try the jackstands tomorrow
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Good luck and please be sure to post your findings. By people following up it helps others that end up with the same type of problem in the furture.
 
Please do ask anytime, because someone here will usually figure out what's going on. And we all learn in the process.

By the way, you're Dart is super nice......love the color and the stance:thumblef:.
 
OldmanRick said:
Please do ask anytime, because someone here will usually figure out what's going on. And we all learn in the process.

By the way, you're Dart is super nice......love the color and the stance:thumblef:.
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Yes I have learned much from FABO.. and bought many parts I could not find anywhere!!! Thanks for the kind words on my car!!!!
 
OldmanRick said:
Please do ask anytime, because someone here will usually figure out what's going on. And we all learn in the process.

By the way, you're Dart is super nice......love the color and the stance:thumblef:.
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You made me think about something. What about the drive shaft or pinion angle with the rear being up so high? I am not that familar with the ball and trunion parts on the early drive shafts.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
You made me think about something. What about the drive shaft or pinion angle with the rear being up so high? I am not that familar with the ball and trunion parts on the early drive shafts.
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The rear end was the same height with the 273 and 7 1/4 rear with no vibrations....
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
You made me think about something. What about the drive shaft or pinion angle with the rear being up so high? I am not that familar with the ball and trunion parts on the early drive shafts.
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Me either. I forgot all about it until Wagg's brought it up. But if the car always had that stance i gotta believe it's from the shortning and possible no balancing.
 
OldmanRick said:
Do you have a 8 3/4 in it now? I thought some have a larger yoke? Might be a joint mismatch like i mensioned earlier.
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Yes it has an 8 3/4 now...posi 3:55 ... There is a guy in Daytona Beach that does nothing but driveline..maybe I should take the car there??? I am going to put it on jackstands tomorrow and remove the driveshaft and run it through the gears and see what happens..
 
johnmucci said:
Yes it has an 8 3/4 now...posi 3:55 ... There is a guy in Daytona Beach that does nothing but driveline..maybe I should take the car there??? I am going to put it on jackstands tomorrow and remove the driveshaft and run it through the gears and see what happens..
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Run it with the shaft in first and observe. If nothing's visable then you can pull it, just be prepared for a little fluid loss/mess depending on how it's sitting. If it looks like a shaft problem it might be worth running by there.
 
OldmanRick said:
Run it with the shaft in first and observe. If nothing's visable then you can pull it, just be prepared for a little fluid loss/mess depending on how it's sitting. If it looks like a shaft problem it might be worth running by there.
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If I just put the rear on jackstands, will I lose much tranny fluid if I take the driveshaft out????
 
I wouldn't do a bunch of stuff! The shop that did the work should be doing it. If it ends up being something they did wrong, they can end up just saying you caused the problem. I'm all for learning for yourself and doing but not when one shop did all this work. Just my opinion but they should be totally involved. Again, I'm not trying to be negative in any way but this seems like their responsibility. I would flat bed it to them. JM2C
 
OwdKasd has a point........but if you give it a try and end up pulling the shaft i'd get the front end as low as possible, as in facing down hill some. I really think you'll be able to see a problem, if it's there, without pulling the shaft. Also, do a visual inspection of how the rear u-joint fits in the yoke on the rear end. I'm really thinking the problem is there or a balance issue.
 
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