Need Advice, Suggestions

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If we did all that work, and it wasn't right,, I'd want the opportunity to make it right,..

But it wouldn't have left my shop without me test driving it,,, hard...

- my .02

I'm really hoping it's something simple, .. like the rear u-joint isn't seated in the diff yoke properly..
 
The Engine builder was aware of the vibration issue and was attempting to trouble shoot the problem.. I was under a very tight "time frame" and had to retrive the car.. I am not blaming anyone at this time. Right now my focus is to find the problem and cure it..its a long story..someday it will be told but right now I just want to be able to drive my car..Thanks Guys for all your help.Please keep the suggestions coming!!! Peace, John
 
John, just a side note, did you used to live near Delray, or was the car just from there? I lived in Boynton Beach from 1988-2005.
 
johnmucci said:
The Engine builder was aware of the vibration issue and was attempting to trouble shoot the problem.. I was under a very tight "time frame" and had to retrive the car.. I am not blaming anyone at this time. Right now my focus is to find the problem and cure it..its a long story..someday it will be told but right now I just want to be able to drive my car..Thanks Guys for all your help.Please keep the suggestions coming!!! Peace, John
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That's cool. I'mglad to hear they were willing to stand behind their work. I may have missed it but did you check the Torque converter/Flex plate bolts. Good luck with it. And BTW Beautiful Dart.
 
OldmanRick said:
John, just a side note, did you used to live near Delray, or was the car just from there? I lived in Boynton Beach from 1988-2005.
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No Rick, I never lived or near Delray, I just happened to be referred to the Engine builder by several people here on A body...I do know a couple of people that live in Boyton Beach.....I bought the car in Ohio, had it restored, and then decided I wanted more"Power"...lol...
 
johnmucci said:
No Rick, I never lived or near Delray, I just happened to be referred to the Engine builder by several people here on A body...I do know a couple of people that live in Boyton Beach.....I bought the car in Ohio, had it restored, and then decided I wanted more"Power"...lol...
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Gotcha, when this issue is straightened out it's gonna be nice. I don't have alot of experience with early "A's", but they are really growing on me and i can see owning one in the future. Good luck, and let us know how it progresses.
 
Ok, we raised the rear and put it on jackstands..started the car..in park and no vibration, neutral no vibration, put it in drive and vibration city.... shut it off....disconnected the drive shaft...started car in park no vibration, neutral no vibration, 1st 2nd and drive...No vibration....So whatcha think????
 
johnmucci said:
Ok, we raised the rear and put it on jackstands..started the car..in park and no vibration, neutral no vibration, put it in drive and vibration city.... shut it off....disconnected the drive shaft...started car in park no vibration, neutral no vibration, 1st 2nd and drive...No vibration....So whatcha think????
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Definitely sounds like a driveshaft or even a Rear end problem. Rule out U-Joints first. I've seen them so tight that they wouldn't "swivel".
 
johnmucci said:
Ok, we raised the rear and put it on jackstands..started the car..in park and no vibration, neutral no vibration, put it in drive and vibration city.... shut it off....disconnected the drive shaft...started car in park no vibration, neutral no vibration, 1st 2nd and drive...No vibration....So whatcha think????
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Now the front end is out of the picture. Next while it is still on the jack stands I would put the drive shaft back in and start the car and put it in gear. Then take a tire tool or some other steel item and start touching it against the rear end to see where you can feel the vibration the most. (DO NOT GET THE TOOL ON A MOVING PART!!!) If you feel the vibration more near the wheels, take the wheels off and put the lug nuts back on to secure the drums and test again.
 
Ok, This is really getting interesting...I emailed the Engine Builder today and told him of the "thoughts" here on A Body and what I did ... here is his
response: By the way...When he installed the new motor, he installed brand new TTI ceramic coated Headers and the motor was installed using brand new Schumacher motor mounts ordered directly through Rick Schumacher... ok here we go......



John,
i did look at the driveshaft. we had the car up on four jackstands and ran the car through the gears. we couldn't see any vibration or anything weird with the driveshaft. the only think i noticed was that the pinion angle looks like it's maybe 9 or 10 degrees down. that might contribute to the problem.
i'm not sure what running through the gears without the driveshaft would accomplish. the flexplate and torque convertor turn any time the engine is running. there isn't any vibration if the engine is rev'd up in neutral, so that would eliminate any type of flexplate issue.
the torque convertor was bought specifically for your combination and was ordered as neutral balanced. normally the convertor for that car would have weights on them.
here is a link to the shop that shortened the driveshaft.
http://www.yellowpages.com/lake-worth-fl/mip/drive-shaft-power-inc-2905847?lid=2905847
i still believe that there is contact between the headers and the body of the car when under load, but i have no way to visually see something like that. as you know, almost anywhere you look around those headers is close to touching something, somewhere. i don't know how much play is in those conversion mounts, or in other words, how much they let the engine move around under load.
 
johnmucci said:
Ok, This is really getting interesting...I emailed the Engine Builder today and told him of the "thoughts" here on A Body and what I did ... here is his
response: By the way...When he installed the new motor, he installed brand new TTI ceramic coated Headers and the motor was installed using brand new Schumacher motor mounts ordered directly through Rick Schumacher... ok here we go......



John,
i did look at the driveshaft. we had the car up on four jackstands and ran the car through the gears. we couldn't see any vibration or anything weird with the driveshaft. the only think i noticed was that the pinion angle looks like it's maybe 9 or 10 degrees down. that might contribute to the problem.
i'm not sure what running through the gears without the driveshaft would accomplish. the flexplate and torque convertor turn any time the engine is running. there isn't any vibration if the engine is rev'd up in neutral, so that would eliminate any type of flexplate issue.
the torque convertor was bought specifically for your combination and was ordered as neutral balanced. normally the convertor for that car would have weights on them.
here is a link to the shop that shortened the driveshaft.
http://www.yellowpages.com/lake-worth-fl/mip/drive-shaft-power-inc-2905847?lid=2905847
i still believe that there is contact between the headers and the body of the car when under load, but i have no way to visually see something like that. as you know, almost anywhere you look around those headers is close to touching something, somewhere. i don't know how much play is in those conversion mounts, or in other words, how much they let the engine move around under load.
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You can easily check that. It's what they call brake-torquing. Have some one in the car with one foot on the gas and one one the brake while in drive. As they give er some gas you'll see how close headers get to hitting or if they do hit. Be very carefull and chock the wheels. Usually correct fresh motor mounts don't have a problem but it's possible.
 
johnmucci said:
Ok, we raised the rear and put it on jackstands..started the car..in park and no vibration, neutral no vibration, put it in drive and vibration city.... shut it off....disconnected the drive shaft...started car in park no vibration, neutral no vibration, 1st 2nd and drive...No vibration....So whatcha think????
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You had the vibrations on the jack stands and that's not torque loading anything, Yea you can get interference with exhaust, but i really think it's the shaft or behind it. Maybe all that new power is taking out the pinion bearing:D. Seriously i have to wonder about the balance job. When and if you reinstalled the shaft, was it any different from before?
 
Well, I am going to take the car to a drive line specialist in Daytona Beach and have him try to find the problem.. If its the headers/motor mounts then TTI and/or Schumacher is going to here about it.. Thanks for your input. John
 
I should have added that if the pinion angle is that far off it could cause some issues. When the car is at rest on all four wheels a average downward angle should be in the 2-4* range. Just not sure when he had it on stands that they were on the axle tubes or not.
 
OldmanRick said:
I should have added that if the pinion angle is that far off it could cause some issues. When the car is at rest on all four wheels a average downward angle should be in the 2-4* range. Just not sure when he had it on stands that they were on the axle tubes or not.
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He has an electric lift, I am presuming he had it lifted not on the axle tubes. I still can't believe its the header/mounts. But anything is possible.. hopefully this guy in Daytona can figure out the issue...
 
johnmucci said:
He has an electric lift, I am presuming he had it lifted not on the axle tubes. I still can't believe its the header/mounts. But anything is possible.. hopefully this guy in Daytona can figure out the issue...
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Me too John, Let us know how it goes.
 
Well, I took the car in this morning for the front end alignment, that went great!! then I drove the car over to Gary's Driveline in Daytona Beach...almost there, car started smoking out the rear...nursed it to Gary's.. popped the hood, power steering belt/fan belt off... left it with Gary... He called me about an hr ago... Power steering pump seized... so now he's going to fix that before he can drive the car for the vibration issue... when it rains, it pours!!!
 
johnmucci said:
Well, I took the car in this morning for the front end alignment, that went great!! then I drove the car over to Gary's Driveline in Daytona Beach...almost there, car started smoking out the rear...nursed it to Gary's.. popped the hood, power steering belt/fan belt off... left it with Gary... He called me about an hr ago... Power steering pump seized... so now he's going to fix that before he can drive the car for the vibration issue... when it rains, it pours!!!
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That sucks. Look at the bright side:), at least it was close. Didn't get stranded, no tow bill.
 
Ok, the saga continues: I got a call today from Gary's Driveline in Daytona Beach this afternoon.... He asked me to come over so he could show me what he believes is wrong.. I went there and he said the pinion angle was at least 14 degrees off..(I should have taken a pic of that) and that the driveshaft which is a two piece (rubber encapsulated on the end that goes to the pumkin) was a piece of crap...also he believes the spring perches were rewelded in the wrong position,,,hence the pinion angle issue....Now here is the really interesting part...while I was looking at the leaf springs, I noticed the drivers side had 5 leafs and the passenger side had only 4... Gary was puzzled by that...he's not really up on mopars...anyway, I told him that I had bought them from Mancini Racing 2 yrs ago when I had the body work done and when it had the 7 1/4 non posi rear end in... So I called Mancini and talked with Tony... he told me that the springs were on the wrong side, that the 5 leaf goes on the passenger side and the 4 leaf goes on the drivers side, do the the torque of the motor, he also said all mopar muscle cars were that way?? true or false... I am attaching pics so maybe you guys can guide me on this issue... he also told me that part numbers ending with even are for right side and odd numbers for left which i agree with.. true or false???? thanks for your help, John
 

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john, i think those rubber encapsulated driveshafts were done back in the day to help absorb driveline vibrations. fast forward 46 years and i can see where the rubber can get hard, or possibly even break loose like an old harmonic damper will do. combine that with the pinion angle issue and that might very well be the source of the vibration. i agree with most everything you said regarding the springs, but i'm not sure how having them switched side for side would contribute to the vibration. nevertheless they need to be switched around from the way it sounds.
did the body guys put those springs on for you?
 
Performance_Only said:
john, i think those rubber encapsulated driveshafts were done back in the day to help absorb driveline vibrations. fast forward 46 years and i can see where the rubber can get hard, or possibly even break loose like an old harmonic damper will do. combine that with the pinion angle issue and that might very well be the source of the vibration. i agree with most everything you said regarding the springs, but i'm not sure how having them switched side for side would contribute to the vibration. nevertheless they need to be switched around from the way it sounds.
did the body guys put those springs on for you?
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My EX-wrench turner who has a shop with the body guys is the one that put the springs on...what a cluster ****
 
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