no oil pressure

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:happy1:.........................will be interesting to find out which was the culprit...and I do not blame you for doing nothing until its looked at by mechanic for warranty purposes all tho it would be hard for me to not find out for myself,this kinda **** can drive you nuts and be aggravating as hell but it can happen to anyone..keep us posted
 
Ok here is the latest on the oil pressure or lack of oil pressure. Pulled the Dist, and oil pump driveshaft out. Nothing broken, put a oil priming tool in the oil pump turned it by hand, nothing put my drill on it nothing. Ran the drill both ways just to be sure and it never even moved the bubbles in the tube.
Builder told me to pull the pan and check oil pump they would send me all the parts I needed. Or pull the motor and send it back and they would fix it.
 
This IS a sb, right? It goes CW

Pull the filter, which is the very first thing out of the pump. Use your priming tool, and if it won't prime with the filter off, the pan comes off.

Inspect in the dist. hole, is the inner plug in? There's some very good photos on here somewhere

This plug here......

and see this thread...........

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=266852

attachment.php


Problem areas.............

The above screw in plug may have fallen out, this goes in from behind the block, with a second plug behind it in the rear of the block. There was a member here who actually installed it in the dist. hole

There's a plug in the vert. hole between the rear main and the oil sender. You can stick a rod down there and tell if it's in place, but this will not drop all oil pressure

Interference with pump/ oil pan, might have broken / cracked pump

Interference with aftermarket (ARP) main studs and pump may have broken pump

Rear main? may have spun?
 
Ive got to get it home before I do anything else. I got the oil pump driveshaft out but it was a bummer. Is there a easy way? I know you have to twist it out of the cam gear but getting it out the Dist. hole was a tough job.
 
Once its up out of the cam gear, loop a small piece of wire around it that will fit between its gear teeth. Pull it up
 
67Dart273 said:
This IS a sb, right? It goes CW

Pull the filter, which is the very first thing out of the pump. Use your priming tool, and if it won't prime with the filter off, the pan comes off.

Inspect in the dist. hole, is the inner plug in? There's some very good photos on here somewhere

This plug here......

and see this thread...........

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=266852

attachment.php


Problem areas.............

The above screw in plug may have fallen out, this goes in from behind the block, with a second plug behind it in the rear of the block. There was a member here who actually installed it in the dist. hole

There's a plug in the vert. hole between the rear main and the oil sender. You can stick a rod down there and tell if it's in place, but this will not drop all oil pressure

Interference with pump/ oil pan, might have broken / cracked pump

Interference with aftermarket (ARP) main studs and pump may have broken pump

Rear main? may have spun?
Click to expand...


I recognize that picture. It's one of mine that I posted. :blob:
 
If you are not getting oil pressure up to the lifter galley, then I would check the main bearings also. The lifter galleys are fed off of the mains. Make sure that the holes in the top shell for the main bearings have not spun and cut off the oil feed holes to the lifter galley.

I still think you should check the oil pump first. My gut feeling is that the oil pressure relief valve may have stuck on you. This will cause loss of oil pressure. Remove the oil pump, and take out the cotter pin for the relief valve. Use a punch to make a hole in the cup plug (you don't want to drill it and make metal chips - they will cause it to stick). After you punch a hole in the cup plug for the relief valve, then use a screw to pry the cup plug out - note that the cup plug goes backwards compared to the ones in the water jacket of the block. You need to put the new one in the same direction or your oil pressure will be affected.) You can get a new cup plug in the MP high pressure relief spring kit that costs under $10 at Mancini.

After removing the cup plug, then see if the relief valve will drop out with it turned up side down. Or with a small "hook" tool. It should move easily with minimal resistance. If it is stuck, then there is your problem.
 
I think ive checked all iam going to check. When I get it home I will pull the pan and check the oil pump then I think iam going to pack it up and send it back and let the builder fix whatever.
Remember this all happened when I started the motor at a store where I had just driven it. It had 40 lb. oil pressure when I turned off. It makes me think something broke on start up?????
The motor only had 270 miles on it.
 
jacksdodges said:
Remember this all happened when I started the motor at a store where I had just driven it. It had 40 lb. oil pressure when I turned off. It makes me think something broke on start up?????
The motor only had 270 miles on it.
Click to expand...

This is why I don't think that it is an oil galley plug issue. I feel it is in the oil pump. :violent1:
 
Well iam going to get it today. When I get the pan off, And can I get the pan off a 1974 dodge 2wd pickup without pulling the motor? How do I go about checking the oil pump? I guess stick the pickup in some oil and spin it with my drill.
 
I have have pulled the oil pan off a 79 ramcharger with the engine still bolted down. If can be done easily.
 
when you get the pan off look for a broken oil pump mounting hole or a stuck oil pump regulator/spring assy ,in the bypass position. the pick up is threaded in to the housing I dont think it could snap off,and if you don't see anything wrong start looking at all the oil galley plugs.
 
When I want to remove the oil pump drive I use monofilament fishing line ty a 20 inch loop and position it under the gear and slide a screwdriver in get it coming with the driver and lift it out with fishing line...works for me...j
 
They make a tool for pulling lifters out thru the heads with the heads on the engine, this tool works great for pulling the oil pump drive on SB or BB. I've used it many times.
 
Well I got it home i pulled the oil pan this morning and put the oil pump down in the pan with oil in it.
spun it over with a drill and oil went everywhere . Called the builder and told him I was shipping it back. Tried to get them to just pay for a local garage to fix it and save me a lot of work. They said no to send it back on their dime. so I guess ill pull it out Monday and ship it back. Ive still got the crate they shipped it here on. I may pull the valve covers and check the lifters.
 
You tried spinning it first with the filter off I hope?

Who supplied the pump, the pan? and who installed them?
 
What about the intermediate shaft? Is it intact? The pump may not be the problem but if they want you to pull, and ship on your dime - I'd check that first.
 
Just read this thread and now am wondering about my oil pressure and the FRAM filter I'm using. I've always used FRAM.

My oil pressure is good at start-up 60-65lbs, but when it gets hot, it'll drop to 8-10lbs at idle.
Motor is fresh 318 with standard pump but the 3/8" passages in the pump and block have been opened up to 1/2" for oiling mods.

Oil is conventional Valvoline 10/30 with Rislone zince additive.
Other contributors may be the cheap Equus oil pressure gauge.

The pressure immediately goes up when you touch the thottle:

1000rpm 15-20lbs
2000rpm 28-30lbs
3000rpm 40lbs

So that seems normal to me, so not sure. I'm not getting any noises or anything so maybe it could be the opened up passages??

Thinking of going to the VR1 20/50.
 
Well, I read the Fram issues with interest and cannot gainsay people's direct experiences. But I can report that I have used Fram for 40 years for most uses in gas and diesek engines alike, and all the time in racing applications where we are running the engines for 100+ miles in a day hard out plue a few hundred miles of cruising in between. This includes turbo apps and covers about 70 hard, longs 200-400 total mile events.

The one thing I am curious about is if these failed Frams have been used with high pressure oil pumps. These pumps will increase the flow as well as the pressure, and the net pressure drop across the filter element will go up considerably with both of those factors combined. So perhaps that is the issue, and I can see the hihger total pressure drop blowing out some elements.

I have always run my race engines with no more than 75 psi max, to avoid any issues with pumping oil excess to the heads or past turbo seals, or any aeration of the oil, and concentrate on a good tight pump that will deliver flow, as that seems to be the key in my racing more than pressure. BTW, my racing apps are all performance rallies, not drag racing. In those events, one often has extended times of many 10 of seconds or even several minutes with rpms constantly between 3000-8000 at 75-100% load, so excess pumping issues may be more of a problem there than in the short bursts of drag racing. Thus my de-emphasis on high pressure and more emphasis on constant flow at moderate pressures.
 
The quality of filters has changed. If you've had good luck with Fram, I'd chalk that up to luck. They are horribly cheap. Buy a fram, cut it open. Then buy a Wix (or Napa Gold or Car Quest Blue) and cut them open... My father was a Fram guy, I was when i was younger. but seeing is believing. They are crap, along with most any $3.99 filter from anybody.
 
Purolators are usually about the same price point as fram; they typically have twice as much area, use a metal element end cap, and better anti flow back valves...and better multi pass efficiency. I need to find that link where a college fluid dynamics class did their research on that. They said Mobil 1 was top dog in their tests, and purolator, motorcraft, and wix were also in the top 5...fram was far and away the worst
 
All good to know and I'll be thinking on changing brands; if you find that link, please post. If they rate Mobil 1 at top oil, then they probably did their homework....though rating Mobil 1 as number 1 is almost obvious to a kindergardener! IMO.....
 
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