No room for a starter - help!

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Well, the time line is close. I checked, the AlterK came out in '99 partly as a response to the poor fit of the MF. And, at this point with all the time that has passed taking it back to this guy to fix his error is out of the question.

If the motor is sitting as low as you say, is the trans also sitting lower? Rear end? Is the pinion angle setup for the position and angle of the trans? You may have more problems than whether a starter will fit.............

Hmm. Good points there. Come to think of it, it is using the stock trans mount which means the trans tailshaft has not been lowered. I think the frame rails are just high. The motor is obviously set back about 2 inches. It is very close to the firewall. I almost had no room for a trans dipstick tube.
 
Are you sure the motor is set back? It's pretty close to the firewall with everything in the correct location. I've only built one big block/auto a-body (the others have had four speeds), but I remember the trans dipstick being real close to the firewall. The reason I ask is that if the trans mount hasn't been relocated it won't mate up if the engine has been moved.

Check out the pics of the bare block in place in my son's Dart. That is the stock location. Scroll down and you'll how low the engine sits compared to the frame rails.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml
 
Are you sure the motor is set back? It's pretty close to the firewall with everything in the correct location. I've only built one big block/auto a-body (the others have had four speeds), but I remember the trans dipstick being real close to the firewall. The reason I ask is that if the trans mount hasn't been relocated it won't mate up if the engine has been moved.

Check out the pics of the bare block in place in my son's Dart. That is the stock location. Scroll down and you'll how low the engine sits compared to the frame rails.

http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/dck.shtml


Thank You for this information. When I get ready to go BB I am going to have my K frame Altered like this so I can squeeze a 383 into my Duster. Thanks again Jim!!!!!!:cheers:
 
I took some pictures after work today. I am sorry if they are a little dark but the sun was setting. As you can see, the motor is extremely close to the frame rail. I am talking 1/2". I have a bad feeling I am going to need a new rail fabricated.

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I have a custom built GPE starter forsale. I have over 700 in it ,and I no I will never see it ,so..... It was built the first time for a 440/th350 trans (junk) and now it has been done for a 440/727 with fenderwell hedders , never been in car still new.. I have chassis hedders now and will not work. It is high torq. and a very mini , but the sol. has been turned out. Make me a offer, just don't hurt me too bad. LOL
 
What is the width between frame rails? It's clear that, either the motor is too far to the left or the left rail is too far to the right........
 
that's easy to fix. just cut the required amount out of the frame rail to get the starter in and box it back in. but like was mention that shock mount needs tied into the forward strut or it will break.
 
hate to say it, But I would stop thinking about the starter problem, and go back to square one. Take the engine out, and do some measureing. Jim is right about the engine either being too close or the fram rail being too far to the center of the car.

Show some pics of the K frame. lets see what the real picture looks like.

By the sounds of it, you have a few things to look into.
 
The shock mount "appears" to be triangulated from the center cross bar to somewhere lower on the frame. You can kinda see it in the first pic, another bar located below and in between the top 2.
If all of the suspension bolts to the rail, that's not gonna be fun to fix, maybe notch the rail then add to the lower/outer side to bring back the structure.
I'm no frame tech or big block tech, but I'm in the Orlando area and willing to stop by to do some brain storming...
 
Just a quick newbie comment. I'll bet the fabricator took much pride in centering the motor in the engine compartment which would put it too close to the driver’s side. Motors are offset to the passenger side right?
 
Just a quick newbie comment. I'll bet the fabricator took much pride in centering the motor in the engine compartment which would put it too close to the driver’s side. Motors are offset to the passenger side right?

Right
 
hate to say it, But I would stop thinking about the starter problem, and go back to square one. Take the engine out, and do some measureing. Jim is right about the engine either being too close or the fram rail being too far to the center of the car.

Show some pics of the K frame. lets see what the real picture looks like.

By the sounds of it, you have a few things to look into.

K member? There isn't one. It is a custom front clip with a motor plate.
 
Just a quick newbie comment. I'll bet the fabricator took much pride in centering the motor in the engine compartment which would put it too close to the driver’s side. Motors are offset to the passenger side right?

It was built by a guy that does BB Chevies. I am almost positive he set the frame rails up for a Chevrolet even though I told him it was going to be all Mopar from front to back and gave him a complete engine/trans assembly.

P.S. After looking at your avatar I can no longer remember my problem. :toothy10:
 
The shock mount "appears" to be triangulated from the center cross bar to somewhere lower on the frame. You can kinda see it in the first pic, another bar located below and in between the top 2.
If all of the suspension bolts to the rail, that's not gonna be fun to fix, maybe notch the rail then add to the lower/outer side to bring back the structure.
I'm no frame tech or big block tech, but I'm in the Orlando area and willing to stop by to do some brain storming...

Hey, thanks for the offer! I have consulted with a different fabricator and he believes he can section the frame like you guys have suggested. Of course, I will have to check the driver's side header but I think it had plenty of frame clearance. I have a welder and air tools at my house so maybe I can talk him into coming here and doing the work. Thank you guys for all of your help. This is why I like Mopar people! :cheers:
 
Can you post some pics taken back a bit? Show some of the work if you don't mind
 
Sorry, I forgot you mentioned that it has motor plate.

My bad. I just didn't know that they removed the K member alltogether and didn't replace it with anything.

Phil
 
Is the motor CENTERED in the engine bay? If so it is too far to the left.

I will measure it tonight after work and give you dimensions between the frame rails and also the balancer bolt to either side. Will that help?
 
What you need there is a CSI starter...I dropped the engine in my GTX so I could get an Indy single plain intake and a 4" X 16 K&N filter under the stock hood.The CSI I used was the 3.5 hp one...very small.It should fit no problem but it was Very $$$...just my take on the problem
 
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