Oiling system pitfalls?

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Small Block Duster

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Hi guys, I have another question on my 360 that's going into my 75 Duster. It's a street application mostly street driven and will be raced a little bit and not babied. 10 to 1 comp. Ported RPM heads, 340 Victor or performer RPM intake. The block is a 79 360 out of a pickup and is 30 over. I can list all the specs if you wish but to save space the bottom line is I think my upper RPM range is going to be about about 7,000. Not consistently, maybe flashing to 7000 on occasion. 6500 RPM my normal shift point. All my past stuff I turned a lot harder than that. From all the information I've read here I'm getting the feeling most 360s don't like being revved as much as small block Chevys even in a state of similar tune. Maybe because the stroke is just a little longer and the mains are a lot bigger. The block is done and I'm running a 5-quart + 1 kevko pan (they say it will fit the chassis without modification) and a standard volume sealed power oil pump and kevko oil pump pickup. I have a Mopar performance high pressure spring to put in it. Don't know what the bearing clearances are going to be yet. No trick oiling modifications have been done. Nothing drilled out. At this point in the build the block is done being machined. Would you run a high volume pump instead? I'm limited to that size oil pan. 5 in the pan and one in the filter. I'm worried about pulling the pan dry when standing on the motor. I'm basically worried about losing the bottom end when I'm playing with it on the street. That's probably harder on it than actually racing it. I know other motors have been built this way and they worked but I know you guys have much more experience. I'm on a budget and if this was a race motor I would consider it a sportsman type of build. Spending some money to make power and be reliable but only spending the where it's actually needed. I am not bucks up. This build is more of a older school 1980s type build. After spending so much money on motors in the past and being involved in racing I'm even seeing street guys buying brand new $3,000 bare blocks because they think they need it and they're going to turn no more than 5000 rpm. But if you have the money you can do what you want with it. That's really made me long for the old days. When people built motors using more knowledge and experience than money. I find spending money needlessly on a car build annoying. Maybe I would too if I had money to burn lol. Also my hydraulic isky lifters have holes in the pushrod seat but I I will have non drilled ball and cup pushrods. No oil flow through them. The bottom line is I don't want to have bottom end problems considering my relatively stock lubrication system. So I wonder if my system is good enough, if the lifters with the holes at the top are okay, and if my bearing clearances are correct if my standard volume pump will be enough considering it's not an endurance motor. I appreciate all your help guys.
 
Hi guys, I have another question on my 360 that's going into my 75 Duster. It's a street application mostly street driven and will be raced a little bit and not babied. 10 to 1 comp. Ported RPM heads, 340 Victor or performer RPM intake. The block is a 79 360 out of a pickup and is 30 over. I can list all the specs if you wish but to save space the bottom line is I think my upper RPM range is going to be about about 7,000. Not consistently, maybe flashing to 7000 on occasion. 6500 RPM my normal shift point. All my past stuff I turned a lot harder than that. From all the information I've read here I'm getting the feeling most 360s don't like being revved as much as small block Chevys even in a state of similar tune. Maybe because the stroke is just a little longer and the mains are a lot bigger. The block is done and I'm running a 5-quart + 1 kevko pan (they say it will fit the chassis without modification) and a standard volume sealed power oil pump and kevko oil pump pickup. I have a Mopar performance high pressure spring to put in it. Don't know what the bearing clearances are going to be yet. No trick oiling modifications have been done. Nothing drilled out. At this point in the build the block is done being machined. Would you run a high volume pump instead? I'm limited to that size oil pan. 5 in the pan and one in the filter. I'm worried about pulling the pan dry when standing on the motor. I'm basically worried about losing the bottom end when I'm playing with it on the street. That's probably harder on it than actually racing it. I know other motors have been built this way and they worked but I know you guys have much more experience. I'm on a budget and if this was a race motor I would consider it a sportsman type of build. Spending some money to make power and be reliable but only spending the where it's actually needed. I am not bucks up. This build is more of a older school 1980s type build. After spending so much money on motors in the past and being involved in racing I'm even seeing street guys buying brand new $3,000 bare blocks because they think they need it and they're going to turn no more than 5000 rpm. But if you have the money you can do what you want with it. That's really made me long for the old days. When people built motors using more knowledge and experience than money. I find spending money needlessly on a car build annoying. Maybe I would too if I had money to burn lol. Also my hydraulic isky lifters have holes in the pushrod seat but I I will have non drilled ball and cup pushrods. No oil flow through them. The bottom line is I don't want to have bottom end problems considering my relatively stock lubrication system. So I wonder if my system is good enough, if the lifters with the holes at the top are okay, and if my bearing clearances are correct if my standard volume pump will be enough considering it's not an endurance motor. I appreciate all your help guys.
Hi guys, I have another question on my 360 that's going into my 75 Duster. It's a street application mostly street driven and will be raced a little bit and not babied. 10 to 1 comp. Ported RPM heads, 340 Victor or performer RPM intake. The block is a 79 360 out of a pickup and is 30 over. I can list all the specs if you wish but to save space the bottom line is I think my upper RPM range is going to be about about 7,000. Not consistently, maybe flashing to 7000 on occasion. 6500 RPM my normal shift point. All my past stuff I turned a lot harder than that. From all the information I've read here I'm getting the feeling most 360s don't like being revved as much as small block Chevys even in a state of similar tune. Maybe because the stroke is just a little longer and the mains are a lot bigger. The block is done and I'm running a 5-quart + 1 kevko pan (they say it will fit the chassis without modification) and a standard volume sealed power oil pump and kevko oil pump pickup. I have a Mopar performance high pressure spring to put in it. Don't know what the bearing clearances are going to be yet. No trick oiling modifications have been done. Nothing drilled out. At this point in the build the block is done being machined. Would you run a high volume pump instead? I'm limited to that size oil pan. 5 in the pan and one in the filter. I'm worried about pulling the pan dry when standing on the motor. I'm basically worried about losing the bottom end when I'm playing with it on the street. That's probably harder on it than actually racing it. I know other motors have been built this way and they worked but I know you guys have much more experience. I'm on a budget and if this was a race motor I would consider it a sportsman type of build. Spending some money to make power and be reliable but only spending the where it's actually needed. I am not bucks up. This build is more of a older school 1980s type build. After spending so much money on motors in the past and being involved in racing I'm even seeing street guys buying brand new $3,000 bare blocks because they think they need it and they're going to turn no more than 5000 rpm. But if you have the money you can do what you want with it. That's really made me long for the old days. When people built motors using more knowledge and experience than money. I find spending money needlessly on a car build annoying. Maybe I would too if I had money to burn lol. Also my hydraulic isky lifters have holes in the pushrod seat but I I will have non drilled ball and cup pushrods. No oil flow through them. The bottom line is I don't want to have bottom end problems considering my relatively stock lubrication system. So I wonder if my system is good enough, if the lifters with the holes at the top are okay, and if my bearing clearances are correct if my standard volume pump will be enough considering it's not an endurance motor. I appreciate all your help guys.
 
After checking lots of LA and Magnum I have found several of them where the factory did a crummy job of drilling the oil passages.
The last magnum block I checked the main to right oil galley on 1, 2, 3 and 4 were only drilled to 5mm. (.197) No wonder it spun a couple of bearings.
 
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After checking lots of LA and Magnum I have found several of them where the factory did a crummy job of drilling the oil passages.
The last magnum block I checked the main to right oil galley on 1, 2, 3 and 4 were only drilled to 5mm. (.197) No wonder it spin a couple of bearings.
 
Thank you for the information. I'll be looking at my block again. I'm hoping the stock type oil pump will be good enough for 6500 to 7000 RPM in street style driving.
 
The stock oiling system with an HV pump, hardened intermediate shaft and high capacity pan will be all you ever really need.
 
The stock oiling system with an HV pump, hardened intermediate shaft and high capacity pan will be all you ever really need.
The pan is supposedly 5 quarts. Supposedly 1 quart more than stock. It's supposed to fit in the a body chassis without mods. That's why I have a standard volume pump. I do have a Mopar performance pinned intermediate shaft though.
 
The pan is supposedly 5 quarts. Supposedly 1 quart more than stock. It's supposed to fit in the a body chassis without mods. That's why I have a standard volume pump. I do have a Mopar performance pinned intermediate shaft though.

The standard volume pump will be ok, I just prefer the HV. A 5 quart pan would be fine for the HV pump should you decide to go that route.
 
The standard oil pump with the kevko pickup will flow more oil than a hv pump with a factory pickup.
So use the hv pump with the kevko pickup.
 
Relative to the SBC's... the SBC oiling is distributed through 3 different passages. The SBM oiling is all distributed from one passage (passenger side gallery), and some paths are much longer, so the SBM setup has more ways to have issues.

The HV pump will flow a bit better at lower RPM's, and can make better use of a higher pressure relief spring; any better flow at high RPM's is engine internals dependent. And the Melling HV's reportedly come with the higher pressure spring.

What rockers? The oil to the heads and rocker shafts is 'interruptor' restricted and the restrictions in that path tend to be come increasingly restricted at sustained high RPM's like in circle track use; that is one common problem for sustained running at higher RPM's is the pushrod cups burning up in adjustable rockers.

#4 main gets starved under certain circumstances; reports are that it is due to excessive oil velocity past that oiling passage, if total oil demand gets past a certain level. The crossover is one of the solutions.

As for the pickups, stop and think about one thing: Once the pressure relief spring opens, nothing in the pump area or pickup increases flow into the engine by itself; it takes changes in the engine as a restriction to make the oil flow change (which could happen versus RPM).
 
The pan is supposedly 5 quarts. Supposedly 1 quart more than stock. It's supposed to fit in the a body chassis without mods. That's why I have a standard volume pump. I do have a Mopar performance pinned intermediate shaft though.
All you need is an m-72 oil pump
 
Melling HV pumps have the same pressure relief spring as the standard pump.
It is an HV pump not a hi pressure.

Melling High Volume Oil Pump
Melling oil pumps provide dependable performance every time in every application. Every pump is engineered, manufactured, and assembled to the highest material and production standards. Manufacturing processes include state of the art CNC machines and the latest phosphate coating processes. This oil pump is manufactured from high quality cast iron as specified by the OEM engine manufacturer. It delivers 25% more oil than stock pumps. The gear is machined from steel billet stock. End plates are precision ground for maximum ware resistance. When completed, every Melling oil pump is individually tested for pressure and flow under conditions designed to duplicate actual engine operating conditions.

Part Type: Oil Pump
Application: Chrysler Small Block 318-360
Oil Pump Style: Wet Sump
Oil Pump Volume: High Volume +25% gpm
Oil Pump Pressure: Standard
High Pressure Oil Pump Spring Included: No
Anti-Cavitation Slots: No
Gear Material: Steel
Housing Material: Cast Iron
Pickup Inlet Size: Stock/OE
Pickup Mounting Style: Screw-In
Pickup Included: No
Nylon Drive Shaft Retainer Included: No
Hardened Driveshaft Recommended: Yes
Oil Pump Driveshaft Included: No
Hardware Included: No
Gasket or Seal Included: Oil Pump Mounting Gasket
Manufacturer: Melling Engine Parts
Manufacturer's Part Number: M-72HV
Weight: 4.25 lbs.
 

I see what you are saying Jada.... but IIRC, KrazyKuda called them and got the opposite info, that their HV pump gets a 72 psi spring, instead of the 55 psi spring. And my HV pump indeed came with the 72 psi spring.

Anyone know what the relief spring pressure is for the MP high pressure spring? I have been assuming it is the 72 psi spring.... but that may be wrong. Maybe there is a 3rd, even higher pressure spring....??
 
I see what you are saying Jada.... but IIRC, KrazyKuda called them and got the opposite info, that their HV pump gets a 72 psi spring, instead of the 55 psi spring. And my HV pump indeed came with the 72 psi spring.

Anyone know what the relief spring pressure is for the MP high pressure spring? I have been assuming it is the 72 psi spring.... but that may be wrong. Maybe there is a 3rd, even higher pressure spring....??
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Brand:Mopar Performance

Manufacturer's Part Number:P3690944

Part Type:Oil Pump Springs

Product Line:Mopar Performance Oil Pressure Relief Springs

Summit Racing Part Number:DCC-P3690944


Oil Pump Spring Material:Steel

Quantity:Sold individually.

Description: Mopar Performance oil pressure relief springs are designed to increase oil pressure over the stock spring for high performance engine applications. They are manufactured from durable steel and can deliver up to 70 lbs. of oil pressure. Available for most Mopar engines, Mopar Performance oil pressure relief springs are an economical solution to those low oil pressure problems. 3690944 includes the spring, cap, and easy-to-follow instructions. 4286571 includes the spring only.
 
I run the kevco pan. Fits nice about 1 inch below the k frame. Only issue is location on drain plug. It is outside the sump so it traps oil on oil changes. Add an extra drain plug to solve it. I run a hv pump and it never drops oil pressure at the top end. If you are worried you could run an nondiaphram accusump. No moving parts to fail and an extra quart of oil. I ran one for a while mount up in fender behind head light.
 
.

Brand:Mopar Performance

Manufacturer's Part Number:p3690944

Part Type:Oil Pump Springs

Product Line:Mopar Performance Oil Pressure Relief Springs

Summit Racing Part Number:DCC-P3690944


Oil Pump Spring Material:Steel

Quantity:Sold individually.

Description: Mopar Performance oil pressure relief springs are designed to increase oil pressure over the stock spring for high performance engine applications. They are manufactured from durable steel and can deliver up to 70 lbs. of oil pressure. Available for most Mopar engines, Mopar Performance oil pressure relief springs are an economical solution to those low oil pressure problems. 3690944 includes the spring, cap, and easy-to-follow instructions. 4286571 includes the spring only.
Thanks Jada. No 3rd spring..... So we still don't know the conflict in the info and what has been found...

I have found a difference in the 2 springs BTW.... the wire on the higher pressure spring is slightly thicker. You need a caliper to find the difference as it is something like .010" difference.
 
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