72BBSwinger
Well-Known Member
My 11" rear drums cost free fifty free and came off a 68 Dodge pickup. I dont car how my drums look through my 18" wheels either.
GM metric calipers, Lincoln rotors and a set of $25 brackets....
.....
On my son's car we used a Summit kit, actually made by SSB and it worked pretty well. We did this because he really wanted discs and were swapping to big bolt pattern axles anyway,...
I think that is one of the unstated reasons that people start considering Rear Dics - The trouble to go to the larger Bolt pattern.
Exactly. I figure, if I have to change the rear brakes, how much more will it cost to go discs?
ALL -
Also, someone asked about proportioning valve changes when going to bigger drums out back. Since no one responded, I guess that means no new proportioning valve is needed.
However, if discs are swapped out on the rear, I would think a new proportioning valve (adjustable?) would be required. Is that correct?
Correct. A different prop valve should be used. I do recommend the adjustable prop valve, anything else is just a compromise. I actually use them on my drum brake cars also.
What is the best way to adjust a prop valve?
Without upsetting the neighbors, do some rapid stops and adjust until the front brakes lock just before the rears. I usually start with the valve all the way open and then back it off two turns as a starting point.
From what I've read the Jeep Cherokee rear discs are nearly a direct bolt on. A problem was found in wheel to caliper clearance though.
What year Jeep Cherokees?
I got a rear right stuff kit for $300 and no shipping (because I picked it up). I thought that was a good deal and I saved myself sometime looking in junk yards.
Hiya Ink,
This sounds like a great way to go. Do you have some specifics on what to get? Like part numbers, or some photos, links, etc?
I also like the Jeep Cherokee idea, as well, but all indications say that my 8.75 RE will require more work than bolting-on.
Either way, this is what FABO is all about - figurin' stuff out!