Out with the 340 & in with the 410 stroker!

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I read that and said:wack:
8.1 Dynamic compression, you can run the cheap ****...................O yeah, you live at sea level, not 7000 feet :violent1: :D

L O L !

whats your take on dynamic limits w/91 octane?

I hear 8.4 being the limit, a lot.

and thats with a closed chamber/quench dome, if I remember right.
 
Yeah that's the 50,000 dollar question. To many variables to make any solid statement.

You could probably push that envelop more then most............But you know what happen when you get GREEDY #-o :rock:
 
Yeah that's the 50,000 dollar question. To many variables to make any solid statement.

You could probably push that envelop more then most............But you know what happen when you get GREEDY #-o :rock:

yes indeed, like aluminum, piston head shape, chamber shape...air etc...lol

:rock:And we'll have fun fun fun till greed melts the pistons away...#-o
 
The roller setup with bronze gear is just about $700, or $625 without springs...which is another thing....this profile allows the use of a 1.437 spring installed at 1.70 or 1.75 @ either 195-165 psi seat and 425lbs or so open psi..

Did you get the bronze drive from Herbert also? I need one, you got a part number and a price on that puppy?
 
I bought a bronze gear but when I pulled the other gear off the shaft I noticed that the pin was drilled a little crooked and it would not work. I have another one but it looks crooked also!

well.... just try to re clock it and try to get the initial angle started...then after that it'll work as a guide when you drill through the existing hole and out the other side of the gear.
 
well.... just try to re clock it and try to get the initial angle started...then after that it'll work as a guide when you drill through the existing hole and out the other side of the gear.

Thing is it is not that far off , about 1/2 the hole, so I am worried that when I re pin it the gear it will eventually move. I thought about reclocking the whole gear and just redrill through the complete shaft and pin it?

Talk about a RIP off when you buy the whole unit. $200.00 + but a Big Block Mopar one is $115.00?? WTF is up with that? I would think they sell about the same.
 
Talk about a RIP off when you buy the whole unit. $200.00 + but a Big Block Mopar one is $115.00?? WTF is up with that? I would think they sell about the same.

PARDON ALL YEAH MOPARIANS.

A lot of Hemi parts are like a chiv, lots of manufactures for the same part, bring the price down.
A lot of Hemi parts fit in big blocks (RB)

I have replaced a lot of intermedeate shaft and never realized they were pinned together :happy6:
 
The cam showed today.

The valve events are different from I was told on the phone.

I asked for a 108* cl and they sent it as a 104*

I asked for something that would rev to maybe 6800 in my 410, here's the valve [email protected]
int open 25*
int close 46*
exh open 54*
exh close 18*

what do yo think?

It shows 79* o lap
 
The cam showed today.

The valve events are different from I was told on the phone, when I run the numbers I get a lot higher dynamic=8.99 according to wallace and about 8.5 according to KB

This cam sounds smaller than I wanted with it's 46* int close @.050, last cam had 54* int closing

I asked for something that would rev to maybe 6800 in my 410, here's the valve [email protected]
int open 25*
int close 46*
exh open 54*
exh close 18*

what do yo think?

You don't want to know what I think...;- )
 
You don't want to know what I think...;- )

Yes I do, just not the part where you tell me to lift the valve .600:sleepy2:

Do you think the cam will rpm 6500+ or not?

Do you think the cam is too small and that the cam pusher went around me and what I asked for?


Next time a cam guy asks what fk'n gears I have.....:axe:
 
Yes I do, just not the part where you tell me to lift the valve .600:sleepy2:

Do you think the cam will rpm 6500+ or not?

Do you think the cam is too small and that the cam pusher went around me and what I asked for?


Next time a cam guy asks what fk'n gears I have.....:axe:

Never order a cam from a cam guy. Order from a competent ENGINE BUILDER!!!!!!!!!!
 
It's called a competent sales person.....
....I asked for a 108*center line...........They ground it on a 104* cl...........

...43*/71* o lap now....and an estimated 169psi cranking...

....Ill be calling them tomorrow...
 
ya it will work maybe a few more r,s then that but a narrow 3000 rpm power band i like it
 
Yes I do, just not the part where you tell me to lift the valve .600:sleepy2:

Do you think the cam will rpm 6500+ or not?

Do you think the cam is too small and that the cam pusher went around me and what I asked for?


Next time a cam guy asks what fk'n gears I have.....:axe:


on speedtalk Camking said the cam is good to 6,600....I would believe him, he knows his stuff

Get that motor running and drive it, lol
 
on speedtalk Camking said the cam is good to 6,600....I would believe him, he knows his stuff

Get that motor running and drive it, lol



Thats the plan

Yes I have talked with camking before, very knowledgeable guy.

Im gonna run it.....

I was told by Ray at herbert that if it doesn't do/give what I was told it would, return it and he'll grind me another to my spec.

also found that with tired cam grinding stones, the numbers will usually be a lil short of what is advertised, hence the 251* instead of 253*
 
OK.....So the rest of my crap showed up today...

why 'if it's such common knowledge' dont people pack things better if they know ups is gonna kick package like kid kicking rocks down the sidewalk all the way to it's destination?

here are some pics of the condition of the package when it got to me, plus what it looked like when I cut the top of the box open, then repacked the lifters to showcase....LOL
 

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Ok....so far I had to grind the valley for the rear cylinders lifter to clear, no 8/7/6....the rest were fine. Turns out my block has a lot of heavy casting in those areas 'looks funky and high'...but not anymore.

So the cams dialed in straight up /46* int close, the lifters are in, the pan & front cover are on...now Im making an adjustable push rod out of an old 273 push rod I have laying around and some all thread w/ a lock nut. Once I get the length figured....I will clay check the valve to piston clearance and if good....I will bolt the heads on and then move to figuring out how much I need to mill from the victor intake.

The other thing Im going to mention is that after the recent valve job...the heads picked up 5-6 cfm throughout .100-.450 lift.......like to the tune of about [email protected] ..however the air speed picked up and now they dont flow anymore beyond .500-.520 lift....so Im back to that again...
I might see about removing .040 from the walls 'just past the push rod' to see If I can slow it, if not...hmmmm maybe fiddle the turn some more...but Im thinking fk it...it still flows 273-278 @.500...and with the intake on...it holds, ..let alone I'm under 5% loss w/ported intake ......and there is still work that can be done...

Im also waiting on some rocker shafts, 1050 annular main body...
 
I say run-um!!!!!

Then if it don't run to your expectation, you can plan a time to pull the heads and play with all the trap doors, a waiting you:booty::happy7:](*,)......:toothy7:
 
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