Overheated last night...bad

-
roccodart440

roccodart440

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
6,800
Reaction score
3,578
First off, my car doesn't have a cooling issue. Ever. To boot, it was in the 50's yesterday.

Car is a 440, twin electric fans and an aluminum radiator.

On my way home from the gym, (car sat for 30+ minutes) I got a few miles from the gym and noticed I was at 220, which isn't normal and scared the **** out of me. I turned the fans on and it just climbed, within seconds it nearly pinned the gauge. I shut it off and coasted down the hill for about a mile to a stop. It had spewed anti freeze around. I could see that.

I let it sit until it cooled down to about 180 which probably too 5-10 minutes. Restarted and within a minute, pinned the gauge.

I got a ride home, grabbed anti freeze to top off what it had spewed. It was at 150deg. Tried again to get home. Made it a few miles at most and again, had to shut down. But it would cool off fast.

Finally got it home and in the garage. Radiator was COLD. Engine had gurgling noises and such going on inside of it. You'd think thermostat but I run a gutted thermostat. It's in there but the plunger is removed.

I'm thinking my new high volume milodon pump may have taken a dump? I have to pull it apart further tonight. But when I spin the pump by hand it doesn't distub the water in the housing. (water neck is off) When I so much as touch the bottom hose, it bubbles and surges in the housing.

Anyone ever had a water pump fail?

I hope I didn't hurt this thing.... It really didn't' go over 210 or 220 other than literally for seconds. I don't think the engine was actually that hot as a whole.
 
Sounds like you have narrowed it down to the water pump, either a stripped or broken shaft. I doubt there will be any permanent damage from the way you described it.
 
I hope not.

Tonight, I'll pull the water pump out and see if that is the culprit. Seems like it lost a lot of antifreeze.
 
Is this a factory gauge? not that you don't have a cooling issue...but ive found the factory gauges to be wildly inaccurate once past "normal" operating range... The factory gauge in my race car "worked" until i unplugged it. aftermarket gauge reads 180, temp gun confirms. once the aftermarket gauge touches 190, the factory gauge pegs like it's at 250.
 
roccodart440 said:
It's a Auto meter gauge from their custom shop
Click to expand...

welp scratch that then! lol

sounds to me like you will be ok. I have seen several mopar water pumps pulled off with no fins left...thats a cheap/easy enough fix. cross your fingers!
 
roccodart440 said:
Fingers crossed


And where did the fins end up?
Click to expand...

eaten up with mineral deposits from years of calcium, and non distilled water...it's not like they just fell off and landed in the bottom.lol

ford pump....but same idea.
 

Attachments

  • 486164_453400404684375_1255223642_n1.jpg
    51.9 KB · Views: 648
If you take the radiator cap off and rev the motor, does the level in the rad go down and back up? If not, the pump isn't doing its job
 
Cavitation.I've heard cavitation can really break stuff. I've never seen it.
But reasonable considering every single blade is gone.Looks like the hub is about to fail as well.
Maybe time for a proper stat? Or an anti-cav plate. Or both. Or maybe on a BB, is there room for a plate back there? I'm not familiar with BBs.
 
AJ/FormS said:
Cavitation.I've heard cavitation can really break stuff. I've never seen it.
But reasonable considering every single blade is gone.Looks like the hub is about to fail as well.
Maybe time for a proper stat? Or an anti-cav plate. Or both. Or maybe on a BB, is there room for a plate back there? I'm not familiar with BBs.
Click to expand...

Not his pumps dude. :D

I have seen three OEM pumps off that the impeller just spun on the shaft with no visual indication (well, one ate into the shaft pretty good)
And two that had the shaft pulled completely out and the fan went into the radiator.
Those were both from having a stock steel fan at high RPM's (Pulling enough air to pull the shaft right out of the impeller and bearings) :D
 
blade tips also disappear due to dissimilar metals + water = electrolysis. Marine engines run sacrificial zinc anodes to prevent expensive parts from disappearing.
 
cavitation can reduce metal to a sponge like material. Its really a destructive process but doesnt happen too often in a water pump on a standard belt motor. Usually poor antifreeze/rust inhibitor or just piss poor metallurgy on aftermarket parts. Remember OEM parts are designed to work for at least their manufacturers warranty period, ie. 50K. Aftermarket have no such warranty constraints. Cavitation plate on a Mopar LA pump is a disk tack welded behind the impeller between the blades and the timing case, or cast into the impeller itself. Some pumps dont even have this on the front of the impeller.
1700%20for%20MOPAR%20318%20340%20360%20hi%20flow%20water%20pump.jpg
 
Anodes aren't a bad idea. Summit has them, not expensive. Distilled water is a good idea also with 50/50 glychol. Good luck
 
One more thing.....to not make you feel "so bad".

250 AINT as hot as you may think. 15 pound cap raises the boiling point to 257* F. Couple that with the higher boiling point of coolant and you are even higher.

I wouldn't sweat it. Pun intended.

And oh yeah. Where the hell are you? You brought us in on all this, said you were pullin the pump tonight. Chop chop Hop Sing. We're waitin.
 
rustyratrod said:
one more thing.....to not make you feel "so bad".

250 aint as hot as you may think. 15 pound cap raises the boiling point to 257* f. Couple that with the higher boiling point of coolant and you are even higher.

I wouldn't sweat it. Pun intended.

And oh yeah. Where the hell are you? You brought us in on all this, said you were pullin the pump tonight. Chop chop hop sing. We're waitin.
Click to expand...

------------this-----------
 
So.....

The impeller on this brand new pump basically fell off.

Summit is sending me a new one, for free.

I yanked the old one out of the shop garbage can. Which I replaced only because it was leaking a bit after over a decade of use. They are nearly identical. The mildon however doesn't have the impeller tack welded to the shaft like the old one and the baffle plate is 2 piece vs. 1 which just seems chinsy to me.

I could have put this one back together and tacked it in place but I'm so jaded on it I let summit send me a new one for free. I will tack the new one.

Once this is together, I pray nothing is wrong with this engine. Updates to come.
 
Good. Glad you found the trouble and it's not a mystery, at least. Might wanna think about tack weldin the new impeller.
 
Update:

I spoke with milodon directly yesterday.

These pumps were put on recall. They said summit should never have sold it to me. They recalled them, tacked the impellors to the shafts and then sent them back into circulation. I got an un-tacked model.
 
roccodart440 said:
Update:

I spoke with milodon directly yesterday.

These pumps were put on recall. They said summit should never have sold it to me. They recalled them, tacked the impellors to the shafts and then sent them back into circulation. I got an un-tacked model.
Click to expand...

You might consider asking Summit for some type of credit or future discount for what turns out to be their mistake.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top