Overlap vs. Wider LSA - Detonation Resistance?

[Newbomb Turk]

Just looked at Total Seal gas ported AP steel 1.5 1.5 3.0, 4.03+5 bore, $642.00. Outta my league!!! Maybe for a class racer where every horsepower counts.

If you actually used them and tested with them you’d see the value. I get it. They have damn near doubled since I bought mine.

The last set I bought was over a year ago and they were 420 or something. It took a bit to convince the guy of the value of them but he is happy now.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Rk

Thanks. I always forget one of them.

I’ve been meaning to ask you what you are using to control your dyno. Is it Depac or something else?

 

[92b]

Depac ADL. No longer available. If you are looking, I would look at Your Dyno. I talked to them at PRI again this year and there booth was very busy. They have probably the closest load control to a Depac ADL. Alot of dynos i hear on YouTube sound like they are going up stair steps. The Depac doesn't do that and has good control below peak torque. All brakes need good supply of water to the brake. I have a pressure tank mounted near the valve after the pump to ensure a good water supply.

 

[92b]

Thanks. I always forget one of them.

I’ve been meaning to ask you what you are using to control your dyno. Is it Depac or something else?

What brake and load control do you have now?

 

[TT5.9mag]

These pistons are 1/16-1/16-3/16. It’s what I had.

If I get my choice I’ll take an .043 ring and better yet the 1mm (.0394) ring pack.

Rings eat power and make heat.

1/16 rings are the new 5/64 tractor ring.

It’s why I avoid KB pistons like the plague. You can’t even get a 1/16 ring pack with them.

Thinner rings seal better, last longer and make more power.

Preach that.

 

[TT5.9mag]

When you run a roller cam over a hydraulic flat tappet stick it also changes the whole dynamic.

The roller allows you to open and close the valves so much faster.

While wider rings do eat horsepower, they are a lot more forgiving in an engine that detonates over the skinny rings.

Tom

Keep your junk out of detonation. It’s that easy.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

What brake and load control do you have now?

I’m using Performance Trends. I have his new servo controller and it’s fantastic.

I’ve never used Depac so I’m curious about how Dave set up the controller.

Is it like SuperFlow does it where the valve forces the engine to maintain a set acceleration rpm or is it like PT and I believe YD where the servo valve opens at a constant rate and the engine will rpm at what ever rate it can?

I watched a Darin Morgan webinar on Drag Boss Garage and he had some comments about that.

I didn’t get to see that one live or I would have asked some questions about it.

 

[RustyRatRod]

If you actually used them and tested with them you’d see the value. I get it. They have damn near doubled since I bought mine.

The last set I bought was over a year ago and they were 420 or something. It took a bit to convince the guy of the value of them but he is happy now.

Why don't you just buy is all some?

 

[PRH]

Is it like SuperFlow does it where the valve forces the engine to maintain a set acceleration rpm or is it like PT and I believe YD where the servo valve opens at a constant rate and the engine will rpm at what ever rate it can?

Actually, the SF901 will do it either way.
I’ve never used a SF newer than a 901, but I assume they still can too.

Oh, and I still like moly filled ductile top rings for a lot of applications.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

Actually, the SF901 will do it either way.
I’ve never used a SF newer than a 901, but I assume they still can too.

Oh, and I still like moly filled ductile top rings for a lot of applications.

I need to get out my SF book and have a read through it again.

Darin Morgan brought it up so I need to watch that video again.

 

[PRH]

I prefer the controlled rate, so I haven’t used the other method in ages.

Basically, you’re doing pulls in the “manual mode”, which allows the servo valve to open at a linear rate, which is still selected by the rate knob.

The sequence to get the pull started is a little “clumsier” until you get the hang of it.

 

[Newbomb Turk]

I prefer the controlled rate, so I haven’t used the other method in ages.

Basically, you’re doing pulls in the “manual mode”, which allows the servo valve to open at a linear rate, which is still selected by the rate knob.

The sequence to get the pull started is a little “clumsier” until you get the hang of it.

Do you mean open the valve at a controlled rate or keep the engine accelerating at a set rate?

Also, are you using STP correction factor or something else?