Planning 318 build for daily driver

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player1up

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I'm new to the board and was looking for advice for a 318 setup.

What I'm looking to accomplish
1. 250 - 275 RWHP
2. decent gas milage
3. low cost/biggest bang for buck
***remember Daily driver***

I haven't purchased anything yet, just trying to get an idea of how much it will cost me and what is involved. I've got no problem with swapping parts in an engine, just don't know where to start.
I have a couple of leads on an engine - 87 fifth ave for $200

Thanks
Matt
 
Depending on the condition (miles) of a donor motor, you could run the stock long block, or do a re ring and bearing, then a head job to refresh it with hardened valve seats and new springs. Then a stock cam out of a 360 (i think I have one laying around) and top it with a little 4bbl manifold like the Edelbrock Performer and a 600cfm carb, run a 2.25inch dual exahaust from the manifolds and you are good to cruise daily. Oh yeah and swap over to an electronic ignation. Thats what I'd do anyway. Will be good on milage and power and easy on the pocketbook even with some highway gears. I pulled my 318 and 330,*** miles when it was still running and it did not have an easy life. Great motors.
 
The nice part is the 87 engine as it will have the 302 head castings if someone didn't get them already, and they will have better pistons also. 250-275 RWHP shouldn't be a problem, but what ever you do stay with the small valves in these heads as they will work alot better than large valves in these heads. Already been there and done this, the 360 2 bbl cam is a very good choice for this application and will give alot of torque and low end power.
 
That sounds like a plan.... but for the re ring and bearing, how do I know what rod and crank bearings to buy? aren't they very specific. For the rings I guess I would messure the bore to verify the size.
How much would a stock 360 cam cost (wink wink)
 
The engine is sitting whole at the local junk yard on a shelf not in the u-pull section - complete for $200 (dist. heads, manifolds carb)
 
BJR Racing said:
The nice part is the 87 engine as it will have the 302 head castings if someone didn't get them already, and they will have better pistons also. 250-275 RWHP shouldn't be a problem, but what ever you do stay with the small valves in these heads as they will work alot better than large valves in these heads. Already been there and done this, the 360 2 bbl cam is a very good choice for this application and will give alot of torque and low end power.


250-275rwhp with just a 360 4bbl cam? or what are you basing that number off of? anyone have the specs on a stock 360 cam on hand?

What is considered good mileage for what you are looking to have?

Werent 302 heads around 1.70's as far as intake valves? A popular mod to them is 1.88's for intake, those little stock valves wont flow much in the upper rpm.

My 318, DAILY DRIVER has a .480lift 280duration comp cam, performer rpm, headers, and 2.02 j-heads dynoed at 240rwhp at 5,300ft elevation. corrected was about 280rwhp. This was with some really oil caked intake valves however that were limiting things i'm sure. also the timing was very relaxed for what it is now. Anyway, it should dip into 13s the next outing with 5,000ft air in a 3,600lb car. and it is driven/abused daily.
 
What are the (stock) spces on the 360 cam? (for comparison) As for the milage - something that's out of the low teens like my truck..
250hp may be just what I was looking for..just to show my boss that I can build a car for less than $10,000 that is just as fast as his $36,000 G35......AND WAY COOLER... :lol:

The milage part is to keep the wife quiet :angry4:
 
My 318 i am using the # 302 heads, with stock 1.78 intakes;

Mopar Performance cam # 4452759

Dual exhaust off the stock manifolds, that goes to 2 1/4",
with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.

Edelbrock LD4B intake, {I used this old style intake;to have the small runners, for the small 318 cid.}

Edelbrock # 1406 600 cfm "AFB" carb.

Electronic igntion.

2.94 Sure-grip, 25.3 inch tires.

Got from 17-21 mpg going to/ from Carlisle last year. :thumbup:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC-4452759&N=115&autoview=sku

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./228 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 260 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.450 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 int./0.450 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110


If you go much larger on the cam, your fuel economy will drop.
 
cavemanmoron said:
My 318 i am using the # 302 heads, with stock 1.78 intakes;

Mopar Performance cam # 4452759

Dual exhaust off the stock manifolds, that goes to 2 1/4",
with Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers.

Edelbrock LD4B intake, {I used this old style intake;to have the small runners, for the small 318 cid.}

Edelbrock # 1406 600 cfm "AFB" carb.

Electronic igntion.

2.94 Sure-grip, 25.3 inch tires.

Got from 17-21 mpg going to/ from Carlisle last year. :thumbup:

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=DCC-4452759&N=115&autoview=sku

Basic Operating RPM Range: 1,200-5,200 RPM
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 228
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 221 int./228 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 260
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 268
Advertised Duration: 260 int./268 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.450 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.430 int./0.450 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 110


If you go much larger on the cam, your fuel economy will drop.


Any power numbers? He's looking for something quick that gets decent mileage. Doesnt seem quite like its mileage before power but he doesnt want super low mpg, atleast what i've read into it. Just curious :thumbup:
 
GoodysGotaCuda said:
Any power numbers? He's looking for something quick that gets decent mileage. Doesnt seem quite like its mileage before power but he doesnt want super low mpg, atleast what i've read into it. Just curious :thumbup:


I haven't the money to dyno my engine.

It makes more power than my 318 plow truck, with the stock cam,
and less than my 340 Duster, that I used to have.

The cam listed is close in numbers to the 1968 340 cam,
used in Automatic cars, but is a lot newer design.

340 cam was .429/.444 lift, designed in 1966/67.
Advertised Duration: 268 int./276 exh. Lobe Separation (degrees): 114
 
The '87 is the way to go IMO too. I would use the 1.88 intakes, and 1.60 (stock 360 sized) valves tho, and make sure the shop does a 5 angle performance valve job, so they get a litle unshrouding and a good throat angle on them. I'd also mill them a tad to get some decent compression, and run the thin head gaskets. If the engine runs and looks clean (like lower milage) leave the shortblock alone except for a new oil pick and HV pump. If it is a greasy mess, the cheapest way to do it IMO is to buy a crank kit (comes with matched bearings), have the block cleaned and honed, and the heads redone as suggested using springs to match the cam. I think running a stock 360 cam is a recipe for disappointment, unless you really like a smooth idle. It certainly wont make the 300hp figure (250 at the tires). The smaller Summit cam is cheap and will get the power higher, tho I still think it will fall short of 300. As a slightly more expensive option, the MP P4452757 (may make it) or P4452759 should definately make the hp number) could be used. Just degree them, and use the right springs. Gas milage comes from the engine cruising a the right rpm, witht he right carb, and being efficient in it's running. A "302" headed 318 with decent static squeeze, and a small to medium sized cam, will run great, and should get high teens milage if driven lightly even running a Holley carb.
 
250-275rwhp with just a 360 4bbl cam? or what are you basing that number off of? anyone have the specs on a stock 360 cam on hand?

What is considered good mileage for what you are looking to have?

Werent 302 heads around 1.70's as far as intake valves? A popular mod to them is 1.88's for intake, those little stock valves wont flow much in the upper rpm.

My 318, DAILY DRIVER has a .480lift 280duration comp cam, performer rpm, headers, and 2.02 j-heads dynoed at 240rwhp at 5,300ft elevation. corrected was about 280rwhp. This was with some really oil caked intake valves however that were limiting things i'm sure. also the timing was very relaxed for what it is now. Anyway, it should dip into 13s the next outing with 5,000ft air in a 3,600lb car. and it is driven/abused daily. (Quote)


Goody's,
The stock cam is/was .410/.410 252/252 @ adv. 108/111 CL for the 360 the 318 is .373/.400 240/248 @ adv. 110 I/ 108 E CL I don't know why they did it this way, it may be a misprint. This cam would be a considerable step up for the 318 as the duration @ .050 is this the 360 has 203/203 and the 318 has 181/192 which is a good bit more and for the little engine is a bunch for the street. The 318's are the easiest to over cam and most people get carried away with them.
The 302 heads did have 1.78 Intake valves and 1.50 exhaust valves stock, and as you say the first step that people do is to install the larger valves, but what people don't realise is the fact that the velocity slows way down when the larger valve is used in a small port head. Let alone the shrouding factor that happens both in the chamber and in the cylinder. But this pertains only to the intake side as the valve is larger, the head can benefit from have a larger exhaust valve as the port is somewhat restricted and this helps a bunch.
This is what we found over the couse of a few years and the mod's done. First the 318 heads with 1.88/1.60 valves on a 318 .040 .480 hyd. cam and adjustable valve train but not rollers. The 318 ran 8.28 best with the 302 heads and larger valves. Then we went ot the 360 heads with Bowl Blending and gasket matching which was done to the 318/302 heads also, the 318 heads have 132 ccs intake port runner and the 360 heads have 156 cc port runners the 360 heads ran 7.93 best. But then we went back to the small valve on the intake side in another set of 302 heads with the same amount of work done and tried them and low and behold the small valve heads out ran the 360 heads by what I would call a bunch the best was 7.66 and the port runner was 136 ccs it picked up the cc's due to the shape of the valve, a lesser tulip. These are 1/8 mile times and in a 70 Duster @ 3100 lbs. The 318 that was used came from my daily work truck with a 100K miles on it it also made 15 mpg on average. What we found is that the small valves made 25 more ft. lbs. of torque and 30 more HP so this is where I base my claims. This was also between 4000 and 4400 ft. elevation corrected with high heat and humidity here in Atlanta,Ga. in the summer time.
 
Your 318 can do something like I'm doing to mine.
small carter carb. (AVS) or Holley of 600 cfm.
Dual plane intake
Headers and dual exhaust w/2-1/4 pipe.
Heads could posibly use a slight mill and clean up. For a few bucks more, some light work under the valve will help. Not porting mind you. Just a good seat angles.
The cam I'm going with is a mild one from Crane. Advertised specs are 272-284 & , @ .050 I think it was 218/224.
Eh, it's in this thread. Take a peak.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=10508

With your 302 heads, you should be up on the game. That engine should be a roller cam. I would try and stay with that myself. A roller.

To tell ya the truth, I really do not think he'll need to use bigger valves to grab a nice HP rating. My cam would be the largest I'd go with how he listed everything. A tad smaller for better mileage potentail really.
I'll be porting my heads (302's) next year for fun with this combo.
 
Sotck 360 cam specs are 260/268, 44 o-lap, 110 c-line, .430/.450 lift basic RPM is 1200-5200. If you use an Eddie 340/360 intake on a 318 gives you LOTS of low end Torque. 318's were strong workhorse engines, very strong and durable.
 
yeah like i posted the stock 360 cam is a good low buck/no buck alternative for a 318 street motor. I build street engines for torque and let the hp come on its own. As the saying goes, drive torque, race horse power(s).
Going with a 318 running 87 octane I'd leave the compression where its at on the late LA engines which should be somewhere just below 9:1 if I remember right - somebody can correct me though. If its low like the 70's engines, while getting the heads freshened a small shave to get 9:1 compression could be a good idea. Like i said someone better informed will have the numbers.
The dual vs single plane intake (performer vs preformer rpm) can be a small can of worms, but I know what worked on my motor to be fun to drive. I wouldnt hesitate to spend a few extra bucks on the RPM if you find a deal though.

I need to check my shop but if i still have that 360 cam I'll only charge shipping. hit me up with your zip code if you want it and I'll weigh it in if I can dig it up.

oh yeah and the ring and bearing sizes are ordered usually by .010 over on the bearings if youve shaved .010 on the crank. If not, then 0 clearance is what you need for stock specs. the guys at summit are good if you need ordering help. rings will be stock size unless the motor has been rebuild. to tell if it's been over bored, when you pull the heads, scrape the top of a piston that is at the top of its stroke and look for a small .030 or similar numbers cast into the top of the piston. if there are numbers there, that is the size ring to order.
 
whitey said:
Sotck 360 cam specs are 260/268, 44 o-lap, 110 c-line, .430/.450 lift basic RPM is 1200-5200. If you use an Eddie 340/360 intake on a 318 gives you LOTS of low end Torque. 318's were strong workhorse engines, very strong and durable.
Thats the MoPar purple cam spec. Not a stock 360 cam. A 340/360 intake is not what you would really want on that 318 with that cam.
318's lack torque in a big way.
 
player1up said:
I'm in Sunny FLA 32826 :headbang: s68's neighbor..almost

Hiya Neighbor ! See you at Speed World in a few months when my 73' Duster is done :glasses7:
 
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