Planning a shop build, any suggestions?
- Thread starter 75slant6
- Start date
-
Have unlimited funding...makes things easier
one thing I wish I did was put some translucent siding under the eaves to let daylight inside.
Also paint the floor before one thing gets moved in or it will never happen!
Also paint the floor before one thing gets moved in or it will never happen!
I was thinking of doin an entrance/clean room on the right front corner which would eat up where the one door would go. If I didn’t do that room, I’ll definitely be going with 3 doors.
Since I plan on insulating the building, I won’t be using the translucent panels due to heat loss, however, Derek from Vice Grip Garage did that same concept using actual windows, so I may end up going that route.
I poured slab and put anchor bolts in the used coupler and all thread to extend it. I blocked it up 3 blocks high and poured them full of concrete then treated 2x8 plate was bolted down so it is actually connected to slab. Also slighted slope towards doors. It can be washed out without getting wood wet.
Build the biggest building that your wallet and space will allow. Do your homework and plan out what will work best for you. I have been planning my build for 3 years now and it just went up a couple weeks ago. I used a company that specializes in pole buildings, they sold me a complete package, with all materials and labor included. My building is 50'x72' with 14' ceilings, 2- 12'x12' overhead doors, 2- entry doors, and 8- 3'x4' sliding windows. I will be doing the prep for concrete and then will hire a local company to do the 6" floor. Then I will be doing most of the wiring, insulation, and interior work myself.
dodgedifferent2
Well-Known Member
Build the shop on top of the hill. Lets water drain out. If needed add 2 feet of gravel first.
The spot I’ll be building it on is on a decent slope, so drainage definitely won’t be an issue.
I converted a small area in a pole barn that we once used when we farmed. The rafters were 18' high up, which means another story to toy with. This short movie I made while using some freeware that came with the computer, but then expired before I could finish. Nothing was drawn out and my carpenter friend was very good with "on the fly" suggestions. I enjoyed entertaining just as much as garage work and the two went will together. This shop is miles from my house, so I did make it comfortable to be a mancave/ garage.
Putting in floor heating and spray foam insulation is a great idea, I wish I had done that with mine. One thing I would absolutely suggest is more electrical outlets. You can't have too many. My garage is 24 x 30, with 10' walls, not nearly as big as I would have liked, but it was what I could afford. I have single outlets every 4 feet at 48" height, and at 72" height offset from the lower ones. I also have a storage area in the rafters that runs the 30 ft length, by 8 ft width and about 32 inches high. LED lighting is a very good idea, a little more expensive upfront, but cheaper to operate and far brighter than fluorescent. I have upgraded mine last year and it is far better. I had the compressor in an outbuilding in a previous garage as mentioned earlier, and it worked very well, keeping the noise down and saving valuable floor space. I also have only one small workbench area, one modest size shelf, and a couple of small purpose built shelves to keep the clutter to a minimum.
Good luck with your project and keep us posted.
Good luck with your project and keep us posted.
Another throught along the compressed air side is plum air drops on either side and one by the front door. Wish I had done that one.
Forgot about that one
And above the workbench!
Not only plumbing, but hot water to a hose. Maybe a down the line thing but instead of a standard sink I put in a restaurant sink with a sprayer right next to my bench. I use that thing all the time.
Instigator
Member
There are some great ideas here. I first saw this on Garagejournal.com several years back. Lots of though went into it:
Jack Olsen’s 12-Gauge Garage - The Motoring Enthusiast Journal | Enthusiast's Corner
Jack Olsen’s 12-Gauge Garage - The Motoring Enthusiast Journal | Enthusiast's Corner
Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
Lo
lots of good ideas here, if you have alailable funds, but remember, you can always add to your project latter on some items. The size and height is most important now. Only you can make that decision. I would like to add a couple more ideas to the pot. Underground power to the garage, you never know what you might drag home. Get a electrician involved, you may want a separate service from the house. As stated by someone else, you will want a floor covering before moving in and I would recommend an epoxy finish, as in Backally post #45. At lease 12' high bay doors. Attic or above storage to give you more floor space. Again, it's up to you if you want to add stairs or a pull down ladder, which can be installed latter.
All good suggestions. which reminded me of yesterday's reading of the latest issue of "Wheels Of Time" magazine - a publication of the ATHS organization. Antique Truck Historical Society. The July/August issue features a story on exactly what you are asking about, - the article is called Planning A Workspace, page 56. If you can get ahold of an issue, well worth reading.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
Consider your intended uses. If fabricating parts for restorations you need machine stations and a flow pattern to move from one to the next. You will need lighting, power and air outlets easy to access without cords and hoses all over the floor. You need reels or old wheels on storage racks to hang them on.
I would consider building a little higher to enable a mezzinine for storage or a small "apartment" for late nights or visitors. Going up involves stronger walls but the cost is less than out. The mezzinine can be put in later. Consider a washroom with shower to clean up before going back to the house. Prevents grumpy girly syndrome. I know one guy that bought an old welding shop in a small town. Has a 2 bedroom apartment and shop. Urinal is flushed with a simple ball valve. The shop door has an opener, screen across to keep mosquitos out and looks west to the Rocky Mountains. Sit in a 57 Chev trunk couch sipping a beer and looking at the mountains.
Cuda Hunter
Well-Known Member
With the plumbing in the concrete, a vapor barrier and 2" solid foam insulation you will have 6x6 metal wire mesh that the PEX heating pipe will attach to the top of the wire mesh. Make sure to cut every other mesh at the locations where you are cutting your relief cuts. Fill the cuts with poly and then absolutely paint or urethane the floor before anything is moved in.
I have painted pontiac symbols and mopar symbols on floors before.
Here's the thing. Once your pluming is in the concrete it becomes very difficult to locate those pipes if you need to drill anything into the concrete. Specifically your lift or lifts.
I tend to make the slab 8-10" thick at the locations of the lift pedestals. Make sure your plumber does not install any heating pipes into the thick area of the floor. If you plan on other, different lifts in the future, I tend to make a strip along both sides of where your main lift work area will be that run the length of your vehicle with several extra feet. This way in the future you can drill into this extra thick concrete and not worry about hitting pipes.
A pit can be a good idea also. Easy to cover with a metal strip when not in use.
Are you planning on using an on demand heating system for the floor?
I build several garages a year that are additions to the custom homes I build.
I have painted pontiac symbols and mopar symbols on floors before.
Here's the thing. Once your pluming is in the concrete it becomes very difficult to locate those pipes if you need to drill anything into the concrete. Specifically your lift or lifts.
I tend to make the slab 8-10" thick at the locations of the lift pedestals. Make sure your plumber does not install any heating pipes into the thick area of the floor. If you plan on other, different lifts in the future, I tend to make a strip along both sides of where your main lift work area will be that run the length of your vehicle with several extra feet. This way in the future you can drill into this extra thick concrete and not worry about hitting pipes.
A pit can be a good idea also. Easy to cover with a metal strip when not in use.
Are you planning on using an on demand heating system for the floor?
I build several garages a year that are additions to the custom homes I build.
-
