This is really taking a toll on my confidence in continuing this car. I'm trying to figure out a problem but I wanted to first understand how the starting system works on these old Chryslers. You've got the firewall mounted starter relay which on mine has 4 terminals. Mounted on top stud is where the fusible link wire goes from the firewall, the wire from the positive battery cable, and a wire from the horn relay, which I have currently disconnected. Then on the SOL terminal is a 12 gauge brown wire coming from the starter. Then on the IGNITION terminal you have the yellow/black tracer wire coming out of the firewall connector. Finally on the GRD terminal you have the wire going to the NSS on the transmission. It's got a new relay, new starter, new cables, new engine harness, new fusible link, new alternator regulator, ballast resistor, new ignition lock cylinder, and new ignition switch. Everything has power on the back of fuse block that should have power except the gray wire going to the OIL pressure light. When you try to start the engine, no sound is made anywhere, the yellow wire from the ignition switch to the firewall shows power, and on the outside shows power. However, that 12 gauge brown wire does not show power when the key is turned to START. The only one that doesn't show power. However, when I bypass whatever I'm bypassing with a screwdriver on the relay and I probe that 12 gauge wire it then it shows power both at the starter and at the relay. So I'm trying to understand when I cross the SOL and BATT terminal on the relay with a screwdriver what am I ruling out or bypassing? Am I bypassing the ignition switch or the starter solenoid? I was so fed up fighting this issue for almost a year now I removed the dash harness over the weekend and with a mechanic friend went through the entire harness to see if any wires were broken or placed in the wrong position. Only a BLACK accessory wire on the dash cluster plug was in the wrong place. The gray wire for the oil light from the cluster plug to the firewall is perfect, no breaks. The PIN on the cluster board is perfect, shiny not broken. However, the OIL LIGHT will only flash between OFF and ON positions, does not light up when the key is in the ON position. I know that oil light circuit is tied in with the ignition key switch. So I'm wondering when the no start issue is fixed the oil light will work. I'm at a point where I don't know what else to check. Any other help is appreciated. No one that I've had look at it has any idea. I don't want to tow it to a shop to get just this problem fixed because I have so much more to do and I want to make sure the engine is still good from sitting for so long. I find it hard to get the engine running while you can't even try starting it with the key.