'Pop's Engine' another 440 on the dyno.

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So sorry, the first run was with what intake and carb again?
 
You're certainly proving the added power of a carb spacer.
 
MRL Performance said:
They dont always work, I have tested dozens of them. Some make good power, some lose power, some do nothing for any given engine.
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I realize that. I didn't just fall off the turnip truck. I simply meant IN their element they seem to work well. I took for granted once again (incorrectly) that all that was inferred. I guess I need to start spelling myself out. I didn't think it was necessary. I guess I was wrong. Again.
 
I really enjoy the dyno results and the steps taken along the way.
THANK YOU!
 
It wasnt for you RatRod, it was explaining it a little more for others. Once again, its not always about you, chill.
 
racerhog said:
I really like the 515/540 #
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Yea, what he said. Even though the loss of torque downow was noteable, I. A light car, lightened Duster, I think it will hardly be missed by the butt dyno.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Yea, what he said. Even though the loss of torque downow was noteable, I. A light car, lightened Duster, I think it will hardly be missed by the butt dyno.
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If we had a really good timing chain on here I would mess with the cam timing. As it is I'm using the $48 one Pop installed when he built the engine, I don't like drilling the cam gear out and installing the offset bushings, but hey, maybe.
 
Could you install an offset crank key instead of messing with drilling the gear for those bushings? Could move 2* easily.
 
I could I suppose, but I have no offset crank keys and a bag full of the bushings.
 
i'd put her in the truck, and ride around town just for Pops and run her the way she was meant to be... fun & reliable and able to tote around all your other projects haha
 
I really love the fact that if you were to put this
engine in a daily driver or truck and need to pass
or pull a load, you can just drop a gear and be in
massive torque range.
I believe most members on here would be much more
satisfied with their vehicles if they would stop trying
to over rev and built for torque where they could us it.
500 foot pounds of torque with 2600 stall and 3.55 to 3.91 gear
would make most guys on here **** down their leg ........if it
were to hook.

Keep up the good work and Thank you!
 
Torque is KING on the street. Its so much more fun to drive a torque monster than a high revving torque-less engine.
 
Unfortunately, that's kind of changed I think. With all the available stroker kits you hear many that build 500"+ motors to only get smoked on the street by small block cars. When the motor makes enough torque to overpower the tires in all gears then you are going to get your arse handed to you on the street these days.
 
MRL is right. To build a high winding. Rev to the moon small block is just a stressed out engine that will see an end quickly while the bigger engine is not breaking a sweat. The bottom line is if you build it for the purpose, it can be done. All you need is cubic dollor, a good plan and excellent machine work.

Been there done that. I have had small blocks backed by a 4spd burning and leaving a clear noticed served via the sure grip in 4th gear handing out a pure and simple pasteing of big blocks before. I know what it takes and I have had a lot of fun doing it. I May even do it again!

But for constant enjoyable driving year after year without the attention and BS, go big and have fun time and time again. Getting a monster sized motor, 400+ SB or 500+ bb, all it takes is money and attention to getting the car going straight and hooking. Over powering the tires is the biggest problem.
 
80fbody said:
Unfortunately, that's kind of changed I think. With all the available stroker kits you hear many that build 500"+ motors to only get smoked on the street by small block cars. When the motor makes enough torque to overpower the tires in all gears then you are going to get your arse handed to you on the street these days.
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Then those people don't have the rest of the car dialed in, period. It's all about tuning, be it engine, suspension, or gearing/tires. I'll still take cubic inches any day.
 
Your right for the most point. They just drop a huge motor in a stock chassis & expect it to be fast.
 
MRL Performance said:
Very Nice! Just so we know the whole story, what would a customer expect to pay for a complete set of factory BBM heads like this setup for a good hyd cam??? :happy1:
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A lot of money. This working on iron is a pain in the butt.

Send us a set of clean good cores and we will install thick wall bronze guides, valves, port, clean mill the combustion chamber side, and cc the heads, 285-290 cfm $1550. You looking for 300 cfm $1750. Anything else is an additional cost. Milling, springs, retainers, locks, seals, hard seats, blah, blah, blah....additional.
 
IQ52 said:
A lot of money. This working on iron is a pain in the butt.

Send us a set of clean good cores and we will install thick wall bronze guides, valves, port, clean mill the combustion chamber side, and cc the heads, 285-290 cfm $1550. You looking for 300 cfm $1750. Anything else is an additional cost. Milling, springs, retainers, locks, seals, hard seats, blah, blah, blah....additional.
Click to expand...

People just don't seem to have a clue what good cylinder head work costs. Makes me laugh when someone thinks that a set completely worked iron heads will be way less than a set of comparable performance aftermarket units.
 
With the 850 cfm carburetor it was drawing 622 cfm at peak HP
 
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