Power to manual?????

-

340Duster247

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 5, 2012
Messages
833
Reaction score
141
Location
Calgary
I wanna switch my 1971 duster power break to manual. I have disks up front and drums rear.
Now there is a lot of conflicting information out there regarding what needs to be done, and items purchased to do the swap correctly. After reading others posts, I've decided to just start a new thread and find out exactly what I need to get this done correct

Let me know what has worked for you.
 
The problem is, "there's more than one way to skin a cat." Why anyone would NEED to skin a cat is beyond me.

In my case, I'm using the ORIGINAL "all drum" 67 non power cylinder, to operate 4x disk brakes.......standard 73/4 disks up front, and Linc Versailles in the rear

All I did was to take a nail and push down into the fittings on the master to rupture the residual valves. Since this cylinder has small reservoirs, this means I'll have to check the fluid once in awhile, like twice a year. We should all be doing this already.

I think the key to the whole deal is to get a master with a bore

small enough.........that it gives you good brake "leverage" IE not to hard to stop

big enough..........that the piston operates the pistons / cylinders without stroking clear to the floor.
 
What "conflicting info"? I think all you need to do is unbolt the power booster bracket/MC and install a manual MC (comes w/ rod to pedal). The smaller the bore, the easier the pedal effort, but the more risk you will bottom out on the floorboard (unlikely). Most people like 7/8" or 15/16"D MC bores.
 
Did they make a 15/16 or 7/8 in aluminum on a regular production vehicle? Or do we have to pay someone like Mancini big money? I found one that size for a caravan but it was cast iron.
 
I just used the master cylinder that was already there...just removed the booster....
 
-
Back
Top