Pro Touring 10K

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So, Talked with Flex Form today. Talked to them about the ride height. I'm thankful that it was a problem that is easily solved. They have not started the new springs yet so we are going with a 225 rate and a 3" free arch. Should be spot on this time.
 
started the mock up of the motor tonight. well going to be a bit of a challenge. But nothing I can't handle. So The rack is going to be in the way. So I have a couple of choices. raise the motor to clear the rack. Or move the motor back to clear the rack. If I move the motor back I might have problems with the shifter location and I it will cause problems with the master cylinder. The intake I fabricated might be a problem with the master cylinder any way. So I guess my best bet is get the transmission bolted up and see where the shifter falls before I make some decisions. Might have to modify the pan or just build a new one to get everything to work. Whats the fun in just having everything just fall into place. LOL.
Stay tuned.
 

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JMHO..... keep the driveline as low as possible with a trick oil pan.....wide and shallow.

The x racers seem like that low center of gravity.
 
Yeah that was my thoughts as well. Believe it or not the pan is sitting about 3/4 of an inch below the cross member right now.
 
that 2.4 powered colt modified his oil pan. seems like a easier way to go if it was me.
 
We are estimating 500/ 530 at the wheel on pump gas. E85 we could push those numbers a little.
 
That should work just fine. I think that is a nice HP range for an A body. Not too extreme but will keep you happy with the car.
 
Yeah, I saw that post on Moparts. It will have a full interior. Leather I might add. stay tuned for that madness. With all the modern pieces I have added. Wheels, Motor some exterior touches. I wanted to add that 60's vibe in there so the seat inserts will be a throw back to the mod top cars. Black leather with this as inserts. Love it or hate it. I like it and that's what I'm going with.

Love it!
 
So after looking over my options I'm going to build the custom oil pan. Motor is on a stand. Removed the balance shaft and put it in the the scrap bin. Cleaned up the oil pan for a flange pattern. Will be ordering a sheet of 3/8 6061 aluminum for the flange and a sheet of .051 aluminum for the rest of the pan. Blasted the bell housing from the jeep and bolted it up. Just amazing it bolts to the MA5 Transmission. But it does.
 

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Well here is the up's and down's from today. The unisteer quick ratio rack came in yesterday. So that was the first thing on the to do list today. It fits the new HDK just fine the inner tie rods need to be shortened about a 1/2 inch on each side. But that's not the first time I have had to do that. So no big deal. Bolted the motor and transmission together and dropped it in the car. THE GOOD. It sets right where I thought it's was going to. THE BAD. The transmission tunnel will need some modification. The main floor brace where the transmission cross member bolted up will need the top removed and reworked. Again not a surprise or an issue to fix. The intake manifold I built will need the runners cut down to make them shorter. I will need to fabricate a new thermostat housing to make room for the shorter intake. The reason I need the shorter runners is to make room for the master cylinder. Right now the intake will be in the way. Maybe got a little ahead of myself when I built the intake. So here are some pictures from today.
 

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So The master cylinder will fit. So no cutting the intake runners.
 

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How much of a difference in power to weight ratio do you anticipate?
 
How much of a difference in power to weight ratio do you anticipate?
Well there is no simple answer to that. But If you go by the rule of thumb and calculate in the 15% loss in drive train consumption. most of the competitive cars I see are right at 630 HP running some form of LS motor. The cars weigh in at about 3300 lbs. that give the car a .191 HP for every 1 pound . My car I will estimate on the high side for weight at 2800 I believe it will fall more into the 2700 or less , But we will see . we are estimating 520/530 conservatively at the wheel giving the motor about 609 at the crank that gives me a .217 HP to every 1 pound . So I feel the car can be very competitive. I guess that's the short answer. A lot of other factors come into play on these cars. Such as getting that power to the ground. how well the car is set up and most important driver skill.
 
lookin good....under the hood!

Thanks Denny, Not as good as it will look. Kind of a grease old motor at this point. The fine details will go into the car on reassembly. The HDK looks good.
 
Great....we are really enjoying the way you detail this extraordinary build.
 
you should look into the offset master cylinder adapter plate from diff Doctor.
 
I don't know how hot your intake air will be, but I'd probably run a small plate of aluminum or steel between the intake and the master cylinder to reduce the amount of heat the master cylinder may see so you won't boil brake fluid. Just a thought.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Once I get the transmission in place we will see if I still have issue with the master cylinder. I would rather rework the intake runners than messing with the master cylinder.
 
You wouldn't have to mess with the master cylinder for the heat shield. Just get a flat piece of sheet metal, bend a 90 deg bend in it, drill a hole and bolt it onto one of the master cylinder bolts.

We did a similar thing on our Baja car in college. Per packaging and the rules we had to have our gas tank mounted above the engine. Unfortunately, our fuel line that came underneath our gas tank was got hot do to the engine and was causing the fuel to evaporate. So, we just placed a thin sheet of metal (titanium to be specific, but aluminum or steel would do) as a barrier between the engine and fuel line and we stopped having fuel issues.
 
You wouldn't have to mess with the master cylinder for the heat shield. Just get a flat piece of sheet metal, bend a 90 deg bend in it, drill a hole and bolt it onto one of the master cylinder bolts.

We did a similar thing on our Baja car in college. Per packaging and the rules we had to have our gas tank mounted above the engine. Unfortunately, our fuel line that came underneath our gas tank was got hot do to the engine and was causing the fuel to evaporate. So, we just placed a thin sheet of metal (titanium to be specific, but aluminum or steel would do) as a barrier between the engine and fuel line and we stopped having fuel issues.

Thanks .Yes I understand the ease of doing a heat shield. But for me not sure how aesthetically pleasing that may look.
 
Thanks for the input guys. Once I get the transmission in place we will see if I still have issue with the master cylinder. I would rather rework the intake runners than messing with the master cylinder.

are you talking about the thing that looks like a rural newspaper box (mailbox)?

(reminder....friends love to bust balls)
 
I really don't think that intake is going to get that hot. Definitely not hot enough to boil brake fluid.

This isn't a v8 with the intake sitting right over the top of the engine. The exhaust is on the other side of the head, there's a good runner distance separating the main body of the intake from the head, and everything is aluminum (including the head!) with good air space all around it. Just look at the surface area of the intake in contact with the head and compare that to a small block intake, there's a big difference. The runners on my Eddy AirGap don't even get that hot, and it's still sitting right over the top of the engine, collecting all of that heat.
 
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