ProComp/Speedmaster aluminum heads

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fishmens67 said:
But, that looks like NORMAL chain stretch to me.
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I think to keep things moving I will just go to the machine shop that did the motor and pick up another one of the same exact time chain and slap it on there. Should be fine for another 5 years..
 
j par said:
I think to keep things moving I will just go to the machine shop that did the motor and pick up another one of the same exact time chain and slap it on there. Should be fine for another 5 years..
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That's not to bad for 5 year timing chain set. not bad at all.
Is that a true roller chain ? brand ?
 
j par said:
View attachment 1715535815
Thought it was kind of weird how the number one cylinder had that clean half crescent on it? Almost like maybe a water leak or something....
Of course I did look at the cylinders and all four corners and just with a feeler gauge of course I couldn't get more than .010 above deck.. I'm sure I could get away with the Edelbrock/fel pro .050 gasket, but since I got the cometic I'm going to go with the .070 and the quality...
View attachment 1715535820
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So r u gonna pull it apart and have the decks machined for the Cometics? The decks need to be much smoother. U just can’t randomly install them and hope they seal. Kim
 
fishmens67 said:
That's not to bad for 5 year timing chain set. not bad at all.
Is that a true roller chain ? brand ?
Click to expand...
Well my paperwork for my engine said true roller... I called the machine shop on it this morning because their numbers didn't seem to match up with anything I could find. You can see it says "sa" on there... I wrote it down it's out in the garage but he said pro something or other...
 
oldkimmer said:
So r u gonna pull it apart and have the decks machined for the Cometics? The decks need to be much smoother. U just can’t randomly install them and hope they seal. Kim
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What in the hell are you talkin about!..???
This is the first I've ever heard of this? Now I have to do what?...
 
oldkimmer said:
Yes
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There certainly doesn't seem to be anything in the description about surfaces except for that their gasket seal really well...
Screenshot_20200526-203346.png
 
j par said:
View attachment 1715535815
Thought it was kind of weird how the number one cylinder had that clean half crescent on it? Almost like maybe a water leak or something....
Of course I did look at the cylinders and all four corners and just with a feeler gauge of course I couldn't get more than .010 above deck.. I'm sure I could get away with the Edelbrock/fel pro .050 gasket, but since I got the cometic I'm going to go with the .070 and the quality...
View attachment 1715535820
Click to expand...

Where the piston top is clean there is no air/fuel mixture there to burn. That’s why it’s clean.
 
j par said:
that would be nice but don't you have to drill the block or something like that? Good Lord what a hassle...
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It’s easy to mount. You use the idler plate as a template and drill and tap a hole. I won’t use a chain any more.

BTW...the SBC I worked on weekend before last had less than 100 miles on it and the chain had about 3 degrees wear in it. Had we not been in a hurry, he would have bought the SBC Milodon GD but we needed to button it up and make it run. When he does the next engine, it will get an aftermarket block and a GD for sure. And it’s almost 700 bucks for a SBC GD. He was willing to spend the $$$ but we just didn’t have the time this go around.
 
j par said:
Still weird.. I wonder how that happens?..
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It depends some on the shape of the chamber, some on any bias ground into the port and how much swirl the port generates discharging into the cylinder.

Rumor has it that getting a clean pattern across the piston is worth some power, but I’ve never been able to nail that down. I do know if you have 1/2 the piston is clean there is power in fixing it. But for the little you have, I wouldn’t worry about that.

Edit: forgot to mention that a tight quench will literally blow the air and fuel out of the quench area and it will be clean because there will be no combustion by products there. Didn’t want to forget that or the pro quench people would come along and bash me good.
 
yellow rose said:
It depends some on the shape of the chamber, some on any bias ground into the port and how much swirl the port generates discharging into the cylinder.

Rumor has it that getting a clean pattern across the piston is worth some power, but I’ve never been able to nail that down. I do know if you have 1/2 the piston is clean there is power in fixing it. But for the little you have, I wouldn’t worry about that.

Edit: forgot to mention that a tight quench will literally blow the air and fuel out of the quench area and it will be clean because there will be no combustion by products there. Didn’t want to forget that or the pro quench people would come along and bash me good.
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Well it might get some quench now because I'm not going to take any chances of my motor leaking water that's for damn sure. What's got me pissed off right now is the stupid 50 thousandths gasket with an Edelbrock rapper on it is just a common fel pro 8553.... I'm going to order a couple of from Summit throw them in the Edelbrock bag and get my money back...
 
j par said:
Well it might get some quench now because I'm not going to take any chances of my motor leaking water that's for damn sure. What's got me pissed off right now is the stupid 50 thousandths gasket with an Edelbrock rapper on it is just a common fel pro 8553.... I'm going to order a couple of from Summit throw them in the Edelbrock bag and get my money back...
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Wish I had known that before I came over. I have at least a pair of those I can’t use. I’d have given them to you.
 
yellow rose said:
Wish I had known that before I came over. I have at least a pair of those I can’t use. I’d have given them to you.
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I'm probably going to go see Ted in the morning and go grab some motor oil and a timing chain. I'll see what his thoughts are on all that..
 
Cudafever said:
I would keep the timing chain and add one of these.
Mopar Performance Timing Chain Tensioner
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That’s really the best bang for the buck right now. Although on moparts there is a thread about only using those with a silent chain and not a double roller. I’ve used them with a DR and it didn’t wreck anything. And IIRC, the materiel the guides are made of is UHMW or something and it work hardens with use, so it won’t wear out because it’s soft.
 
Yup i have been using them.
didn't this time because the new chain was too tight. could have forced it on but that's a bad idea. so it hangs on the wall waiting for me to pull the timing cover off and install it.
 
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